dulfersitz

dulfersitz

Rumney, NH

dulfersitz

dulfersitz wrote a review of on September 23, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I gave it as a gift

Bluewater has a good discussion on their FAQ about middle markers. They recommend any non-solvent based marker, particularly Sharpie's Rub-A-Dub laundry pen (which you can get for $2 on Amazon).

http://www.bluewaterropes.com/ and click on FAQs at top. Here's what they say:

"Marking pens are fine to use on ropes as long as they are water based laundry markers. Years ago solvent based markers were the norm. Some of the solvents used in these old pens could reduce the strength of the sheath strands marked. These days most pens are water based so this is not as much of an issue as in years passed. We recommend a Sharpie 'rub a dub' laundry marking pen."

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dulfersitz

dulfersitz wrote a review of on January 10, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been on a quest for the perfect winter mid-layer. I bought six candidates from Backcountry on Thanksgiving, and returned all of them but this guy. The lofty fleece keeps me warm like sun on a Mexican beach (Corona not included).

I've worn this jacket around the city, on the slopes, and to the crags.

Pros: Good on its own down to 35-40 degrees (with long-sleeve shirt underneath). I pair it with a down jacket for colder temps. It does not block wind, so wear under a down jacket or hardshell if that's a concern. Packs well.

Cons: No hood. Short in torso.

Other: No wind protection (but would make it less packable, so okay trade-off in my book).

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dulfersitz

dulfersitz wrote a review of on October 12, 2011

5 5

Biners are biners, right? I would have said so a few years ago. But my Petzl biners have held up much better than others from black diamond, camp, and wild country. The gate on one of my BD's sticks open. My camps have rope grooves from being demoted to anchor duty. But my petzls feel and look brand new.

I also like that the nylon dogbone on this draw is burly enough to leave it up on a route for a few weeks without the UV rays & rain degrading its strength. I'm sure it's all in my head, but I try to avoid leaving my BDs / wild countrys with their dyneema dogbones in the sun for days.

Pros: I like the longevity, the clipping action, and the durability of the dogbone
Cons: heavier and bulkier, 2x more expensive
Best uses: sport climbing
Don't use this for: trad, or if you're counting ounces

If you're just building a rack, I'd recommend five of the 17 cm variety. Longer draws = less rope drag. The short ones are only good if the bolts are in a straight line, and those climbs are never that fun anyway. If you get five draws, and your buddy has five, you should be set for most stuff. You can always salvage draws from the middle of the climb to finish putting the rope up if you run short.

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