cmc5380758

cmc5380758

cmc5380758's Passions

Hiking & Camping
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Climbing
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cmc5380758

cmc5380758 wrote a review of on May 23, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small

I have been climbing for a couple years now and as a guilty pleasure I have always climbed in my first pair of beginner La Sportiva Tarantulace shoes... they were just so comfortable I couldn't put myself through the torture of breaking in a new pair.

After resoling them for a 5th time, I finally decided to try a more advanced shoe and was deciding between these and the 5.10 Anasazi. Both shoes are very well made, but the Miuras just fit my foot like a slipper. Climbing shoes are very subjective, but I found the 5.10?s to have a wider toe box, which caused them to shift slightly when I was edging. They run small... I am a 9/9.5 street and 42's fit perfectly when broken in.

I initially wet them out and then climbed in them as long as possible for my first two weekends using them and they broke in quickly. Took me about 5 pitches to stretch them half a size. That said, they climb really aggressive and edge like a dream. These shoes let me comfortably stand on dime edges that I would have had to previously hold complete body tension to even get a few seconds on. It honestly felt like cheating the first time I climbed in them - lol.

The area I climb in is majority face and all polished quartz, so I cannot attest to their performance on slab, but I did not have any trouble with them on the cracks I came across so all in all I am very happy with them. I hate to admit it, but I think my climbing has gone up at least half a grade from using these shoes. That said, they are not as comfortable as my old shoes so for long moderate trad lines I will go to back to my old pair.

Overall... I would highly recommend them.

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cmc5380758

cmc5380758 wrote a review of on March 27, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is my second set and I have used these draws on rock, ice, and everything in between.

The new Oz biners are arguably the best biners on the market period and buying them as part of this set makes them very flexible. Last weekend I used them as is to officially open the rock season in the Red, now this weekend the bones come off and I am just using the biners for alpine draws when I go to Jtree.

Solid product and much better deal then buying the biners and bones separately. Couldn't ask for more!

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cmc5380758

cmc5380758 wrote a review of on February 13, 2012

4 5

This is my first season using these gloves climbing in the Daks and White Mountains in snowy/windy conditions w/ temps ranging from mid 20s to 0 F. They have very good dexterity for handling tools, give solid grip even when palms get snowy, and the padding on the knuckles is nice if u accidentally hit the ice.

Overall these are good gloves and highly respected in the climbing community. They are warm enough to use for both the approach and hikes between pitches without having to swap out gloves. That said, if the wind is really blowing, you will feel a slight draft in the glove and they are not warm enough to belay for long periods in temps below 10 F.

I have never had an issue with these gloves getting wet from the outside in but my hands do get extremely sweaty in them, which is an issue on windy days when the draft gets through. They are also very tough to dry out (definitely not in your sleeping bag overnight) and there have been quite a few occasions where my gloves spent the night next to the wood-burning stove in Harvard cabin on Mt. Washington.
This is not an issue unique to these gloves, but just wanted to point out that it is worth having a second pair in addition to belay mittens to swap into later in the day or the following day on a long climb.

That said, the two biggest issues I have with this glove are, as another reviewer mentioned, the excess space between the top of your fingertips and the end of the glove. This may be subjective, but I have pretty long fingers and it makes clipping into anything more difficult then it needs to be. Also, and this is my biggest peeve, they do not come very high up the forearm and the Velcro closure just doesn’t cinch the top of the glove tight enough around the wrist allowing snow to get into the glove while climbing. I have tried putting my jacket over it but as soon as I reach above my head my forearm is exposed again… for that reason alone I think I might look for an alternative glove next season. There is absolutely nothing worse then snow getting in your glove and melting on your base layers around your wrist on a cold day.

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