cmc5380758 wrote a review of La Sportiva Miura Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe - Men's on May 23, 2014
Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small
I have been climbing for a couple years now and as a guilty pleasure I have always climbed in my first pair of beginner La Sportiva Tarantulace shoes... they were just so comfortable I couldn't put myself through the torture of breaking in a new pair.
After resoling them for a 5th time, I finally decided to try a more advanced shoe and was deciding between these and the 5.10 Anasazi. Both shoes are very well made, but the Miuras just fit my foot like a slipper. Climbing shoes are very subjective, but I found the 5.10?s to have a wider toe box, which caused them to shift slightly when I was edging. They run small... I am a 9/9.5 street and 42's fit perfectly when broken in.
I initially wet them out and then climbed in them as long as possible for my first two weekends using them and they broke in quickly. Took me about 5 pitches to stretch them half a size. That said, they climb really aggressive and edge like a dream. These shoes let me comfortably stand on dime edges that I would have had to previously hold complete body tension to even get a few seconds on. It honestly felt like cheating the first time I climbed in them - lol.
The area I climb in is majority face and all polished quartz, so I cannot attest to their performance on slab, but I did not have any trouble with them on the cracks I came across so all in all I am very happy with them. I hate to admit it, but I think my climbing has gone up at least half a grade from using these shoes. That said, they are not as comfortable as my old shoes so for long moderate trad lines I will go to back to my old pair.
Overall... I would highly recommend them.