chr3268326

chr3268326

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Chris's Passions

Sport Climbing

Chris's Bio

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chr3268326

chr3268326 wrote a review of on May 6, 2011

5 5

I work at a gym where our rental bags are filled with Super Chalk. As a result I get to fill my bag for free with it, but I still opt to buy white gold. Super chalk almost feels like you're climbing with all purpose flour on your hands. It may dry the sweat but it's not really ideal. White Gold has the same drying effect but just feels grippier. Hands down my favorite brand of chalk.

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chr3268326

chr3268326 wrote a review of on March 11, 2011

3 5

I have to disagree with almost every review on here. My harness was sized correctly, and while it is more comfortable than in looks (which isn't hard) It certainly doesn't hold a candle to other sport climbing harnesses like the Petzl Sama or Misty Mountain Bolt in terms of comfort. Any sort of long term hanging belays or route cleaning will be very very uncomfortable. That said is is very light, so if that it what you're into I suppose its a plus. At the end of the day I was unimpressed, particularly considering the cost.

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chr3268326

chr3268326 wrote a review of on January 4, 2011

4 5

Obviously these aren't the best performing shoe out there, but considering their competition as far as price range essentially consists of the Mad Rock Flash, these are definitely the ones to chose. Decent edging and smearing, although the ecotrax rubber is not the greatest, pretty good heel cup if sized correctly, and can eventually be a very comfortable all around climbing shoe. Not very stiff at all, so you'll probably want to demote these to gym shoes or loaners eventually if you're a beginner, but for someone just getting started these are probably the best shoes out there.

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chr3268326

chr3268326 wrote a review of on December 31, 2010

5 5

I've used this pack for hiking to climbing sites, snowshoeing, mountain and road biking, and anything you can think of and I have never been disappointed. I've been able to fit everything I've needed to in there (within reason) pretty easily, and the pockets really came in handy. The reservoir is a great design and much easier to fill and seal than others I have used. The durability is great, and all of the zippers and buckles are burly enough to stand up to some abuse. Sits really well on my shoulders, and doesn't make your back sweat too much on hot days. Awesome awesome pack.

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chr3268326

chr3268326 wrote a review of on December 31, 2010

5 5

I bought these shoes to replace a pair of evolv Optimus Primes. These shoes lack the downturn (obviously) that I was used to with the primes so i was worried about how these would do on something overhanging, but these performed flawlessly on the local granite overhanging classic. I kept trying to find something that I don't like about these and it just never happened. They are super comfortable but edge, smear, toe hook, heel hook, anything you want. The rubber is pretty sticky, and super durable so I anticipate having these shoes for quite a long time. One thing I would say about these is that the sole is fairly thick, so if you're a climber who likes to feel the holds this shoe will disappoint you. I sized down .5 from madrock conflicts and evolv defys, and a full size down from my primes (they fit close to street shoe size) and was very happy with my fit. Expect a half size worth of stretch.

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chr3268326

chr3268326 wrote a review of on November 14, 2010

5 5

I've had my primes for 4 months now and can't complain at all. First of all the toe is amazing for edging, I literally haven't found a single foot chip that doesn't feel completely solid if you have your feet set correctly. Toe hooks are very solid, and the heel is not amazing but it is more than sufficient for any heel hooks you want to throw at at it. These shoes have a TON of rubber, and are pretty stiff but still manage to smear passably. I haven't had any issues with durability despite climbing 3-5 days a week either in the gym or on rough granite, but if what I've read about the TRAX rubber is true I have no problem shelling out to get these resoled with some 5.10 Stealth rubber, or Vibram XS. They do run smaller than you would expect. I wear a 10 street shoe and remember wearing a 9.5 in both the Evolv Defy and Mad Rock Conflicts, and a 41.5 in La Sportiva Katanas, and a 10 in the primes gives me a very aggressive fit (one I would never try to belay in). They do start to smell like death after a while, which seems to be a trend with Evolv shoes, but I've found that airing them out between climbing days with 4-5 scented dryer sheets stuffed in each shoe keeps the smell at bay. Overall a fantastic shoe for short to mid-length sport routes and boulder problems.

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chr3268326

chr3268326 wrote a review of on October 20, 2010

4 5

Don't really know what to make of the Mugen Tech. They were pretty comfortable after a break in period, and the initial slickness of the rubber wears off quickly and makes way for pretty solid friction on granite and gym walls, but science friction is far from the best rubber on the market. The heel is kind of gimmicky to me. Works great for heel hooking a jug I guess, but for anything smaller it just equates to less rubber in contact with the rock. The heel cup is great though. The dual density sole makes for awful smearing, and the thicker part around the toe becomes disfigured permanently on sharper edges. The hemp liner is a tad scratchy, but definitely worth it since they all but eliminate the odor that usually will plague your climbing shoes. I would call these a solid bouldering shoe, but as far as the mad rock product line goes i still prefer the conflicts...maybe even the flashes.

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