Brent Allen

Brent Allen

Seattle, WA

Brent Allen's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Snowboarding
Running
Biking
Yoga
Paddling
Skiing
Climbing

Brent Allen's Bio

Love to climb and snowboard, not to mention be outdoors. Nature rocks. . yea!

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love the gate action and shape in hand for both ends of this biner. Who would have guessed that Mad Rock wound up designing my favorite wiregate ever?

The gate action is incredibly smooth on the wired end and the gate opening is huge. The Keylock end is pretty generic, but lightweight and strong and my preferred clips for sport climbing.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love being in the NW and using my Salmon printed rope bag! Gimmicky, sure, but the blue coloring is distinct. . and the tarp, tarp pocket, and 4 tie in points keep my rope and rope ends organized and this bag is totally large enough to hold 2-60m ropes if you need to consolidate.

You can fill this bag with 15 draws, a pair of climbing shoes, a harness, and 60m 10.1mm rope with room to spare.

Durability has been great and the bag shows little signs of wear other than being craaazzzzzy dirty.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

CHALK! Soo no noticeable differences between this stuff and the BD Gold or the So ill Perscription chalk. I personally prefer the cheap So-Ill stuff or the Melolius Super Chalk, but the bag here is still a great purchase for reuse. I've personally refilled the bag time and again with extra chalk for a daytrip or weekend trip to the crag due to the easy pouring.

The chalk starts out rather chunky, but crushes easily into fine powder really similarlly to the Black Diamond stuff.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Heh, These are almost identical copies of the La Sportiva Testarossa's. I am willing to bet production stopped for that reason alone. . but who knows.

I have climbed incredibly overhanging sport and boulders with these and they have edged and gripped like a dream and gotten me through the v5's and 5.12's I needed them to.

I have size 9.5 feet and I got these in 7.5's and they were almost impossible to climb with in the beginning. Now they've molded and stretched to my exact foot shape while maintaining that high downturned toebox. And I love them!

Unfortunately, both toes, where the sole meets the rand, have an ever so slight peel. This has been since the first month of climbing and hasn't peeled further or affected the shoes precision in any noticable way. I would say I watch my footwork too, but even so I think the size stretching is the real culprit here.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These are one of my favorite outdoor shoes for their comfort, precision, and grippyness both in the toe, heel, and rand rubber. That being said, the 2.0's that came out are not the same. The sizing in them is different from the older model as well as the fit in the toebox, and arch. I have high arches, and a smaller heel and do not have morton's toe. I tried and tested the new pontas in hopes of capturing for me what the original pontas held, but alas.

To each is own, and I know plenty of people that swear by the newer model 2.0's.

I have 9.5 inch feet and got these in a comfy/precise 8.0

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been rocking this rope for the past year and a half and it has held up remakably with only minimal sheath fuzzing through both indoor and lots of outdoor abuse.

It hasn't taken as much damage as some of my buddies similar diameter ropes, but it seems to always get to be the lead / top rope-rope of choice. Love the soft supple handling and the weight on it is crazy light for it's sizing.

If I have a choice I always grab the marathon pro over my friends ropes for a dicey lead situation. Additional thoughts: This rope stretches A LOT on lead falls, be weary of the first couple bolts. . like always?

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Easily my favorite headlamp in the price-range. It is very lightweight, projects the widest beam of any headlamp I own, Very bright for your immediate surroundings and last days of usage!

I have caved, climbed, and hiked for hours and hours with this bad boy, and I love the color of the Teal strap cause it lets everyone know you're rocking the Tikka 2 ;)

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I have some not so good knee tendons and when it comes to hiking and I can't do anything above 6-8 miles without feeling like there is a arrow in my knee. . *cough* Anyway, these poles are ultra compact and have held up just fine so far to general up and down wear and tear. I can navigate just fine with a single pole which allows me to share, but having the second really comes in handy for all day trekking.

At first I thought the folding a Z-Pole and FlickLock Pro mechanisms were a bit gimicky, but they're just so uber quick to deploy and have been super stable, no complaints what-so-ever.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been using this for over a year now and I love it, for the price it can't be beat. When I first picked up a large tub for under 10 bucks I thought it must have been on sale, lol nope. Just pure chalk like the BD stuff w/o the outrageous brand name price gouging.

I still buy super chalk and occasionally mix it with this, but hey I have super moist hands. .

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: Runs large

On a random day it happened I was in the rei gear garage early in the morning and a glistening brand new pair of these cuties were just sitting there on the shelf. Stunned, I slid on over and did an initial inspection, pristine condition! After a brief scoff at the tinyness of the shoe I figured, what the hell, and plunged my left foot into one. AMAZING FIT! Beguiled as I was, I immediately purchased the "used" shoe and haven't looked back since.

I have a 9.5 inch feet, as a guy, and I managed to squeeze them into a pair of 7.0's without too many issues. I could not manage a pair of 6.5's onto my feet, of that, I am certain.

I have bouldered in these for about a month and the lining inside makes the shoe incredibly comfortable, the midsole is stiff and supportive for micro edging, and the heel is the most minimalistic I've worn. The heel is even more low-volume than the Womens teal Anasazi Lv's I own in a similar size (wms 8.5 anasazis are the same length as a pair of these in 7.0??).

True to evolv, the rubber is grippy and sensitive, but with the shoes extra supportive mid-layer I am edging and smearing with confidence on anything (Bolt holes!! Huzzah!) and for the price I'll certainly keep a pair of these handy (even though I didn't pay the full 90 bucks for them)!

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small

First off, I love these shoes. Everythin' about them, EVVERRRYYYTHINNNGGG.

I am a guy with 9.5 inch feet and I wear a pair of 8.5's in these as my high performance lead/boulder shoe. As a guy, I downsized 2 sizes from my foot size and the break-in period took about 1+ month of serious climbing. Now they are perfectly molded to my footbox, toes, heelcup, and arch.

I have a high arch, and a smaller heel and these are exactly what i needed in a high performance flat soled shoe.

The Steath rubber is mega grippy, without sacrificing durabilty, I mostly bouldered in them for 6 months before the toe started to thin out and I was in need of a resole. Easily the most confidence inspiring shoe I have when on Slab, Vert, or even slightly overhanging terrain.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I generally wear tiny uncomfortable shoes when I boulder, but I got my "comfy" size in the Anasazi's for outdoor leading and general bouldering days when my feet have swelled up and I can't fit into my performance shoes anymore. My foot is 9.5 inches long, and I got these in 8.0. I have about a half inch or so of play in the toes when i'm crimping them, so I could have sized down another half size with ease, but this is what I got them for.

The Onyx rubber is incredibly sticky and durable and these have quickly become a shoe I go to day after day just for the sheer comfort, performance, and durability of them. The support is there for micro edging and they smear like a dream too.

The heel cup takes some time to break in, but once they do (i don't have a large heel) they hook like a dream with minimal deadspots. They suction well enough to my feet so i'd say 9 times out of 10 I don't even close the velcro on them. Can send and send in comfort and style. Get a pair. Get two! Get them now!

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen posted an image about on March 22, 2012

gym time, all the time

Finished up my wall with some additional holds and I really am glad with the way the Simulator 3D fits in to the mix. The workouts and the finger training with it have been great!

. . and I've only cracked my head on the ceiling once so far, and it was because I am an idiot . . :D

Keep in mind the whole thing is below the top of my door frame by about 10 inches or so.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on January 30, 2012

4 5

I received this as a gift as well, in the White color.

My favorite part of this bottle is the option to remove the filter/straw attachment if you don't want it. Which makes room for slightly more water and sets it up so you aren't sipping through a straw to get your water out.

The 'Steel' Groove bottle is actually nice and durable with minimal denting so far. It is a bit heavier than the plastic version, but it's not incredibly noticeable. The only real issue I have is the bite valve as it can hold onto some additional pressure which makes water squirt at you/on your stuff if you're not careful. I worry a slight bit about the valves durability, but no issues so far.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on January 30, 2012

4 5

I received this as a gift in the graphite color and it's actually pretty cool even though I don't know if I would ever buy one for myself. My favorite part of this bottle is the option to remove the filter/straw attachment if you don't want it. Which makes room for slightly more water and sets it up so you aren't sipping through a straw to get your water out.

The filter attachment mostly sits on my shelf since this is a gym / travel bottle, but when I'm at home or somewhere that I think the water tastes bad it's nice to have the option to carbon filter it.

The Groove's plastic doesn't leave a taste in the water and my only real issues is the bite valve as it can hold onto some additional pressure which makes water squirt at you/on your stuff if you're not careful. Mostly, I dislike the way the bite valve feels, but I also worry slightly about bacteria and durability.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on January 30, 2012

5 5

The beam is mega wide, long burning, housing is secure, and it's very very water resistant/proof.

This is my goto around camp light.
On low, with the wide beam, I can see and do anything I need to even when I'm the only one with a light on. If I really need to illuminate the enitrety of my immediate area I just blast the darkness with my Quad on high, with its +4 beam of Awesome and I'm all set.

Even took this for a midnight swim at the ol' watering hole and after 30-45 minutes of sporadic underwater action, and 5 different wearers, it was in A+ condition. Probably went down to a maximum of 7 feet for maybe 30-45 seconds.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on January 30, 2012

4 5

I've been using the Princeton Tec Fuel and Quad headlamps for a bit now and I find each has it's more suited applications (I think I prefer the Fuel for wandering around the forest in darkness).

While the battery closure does worry me a bit with the Fuel, I always baby it and take my time using the headband piece to wiggle open the battery cover. Luckily it hasn't broken yet, but I wouldn't say that even with these methods it's not going to break off anyway.

My Fuel has held up in high humidity, mist, fog, and very light drizzle without any issues. I've been very pleased with the battery life and rarely use it above the "low" setting when I'm in camp. The beam is what I would call 'all around' and is a good mix of width and distance when on medium and high settings.

Other than the battery cover issues I really like the headband and the angles of adjustment for this lamp. The Fuel is nice and compact and battery life is great although it will dim a noticeable amount once you've used it for a few hours, which is to be expected.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on January 27, 2012

4 5

Black Diamond Chalk is so soooo smooooth! It's crazy since it's still chunky that it can feel so smooth on your fingers.

I used this stuff by itself for a few weeks and was pretty darn impressed since I normally go for coarser chalk due to my overly sweaty hands (think super chalk). It was hard for me to tell when I needed rechalking since it was so light and smooth. I hardly noticed the difference in feel between chalk-ups, but you definitely notice a difference in friction with this stuff. Chalk without having to cake it on?!

It's hard to say if White Gold is necessarily better or worse than Super Chalk, in my opinion. They're just 2 very different types of chalk. Lately I've been experiementing with various mixtures of both and it's been very reliable in keeping my hands dry (I'm overly sweaty ;[ ), chalked up for longer periods, and the friction is totally rad with the White Gold!!

I'm going to try using some more of this by itself when I need to refill again.

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