Brent Allen

Brent Allen

Portland, Maine

Brent Allen's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Snowboarding
Running
Biking
Yoga
Paddling
Skiing
Climbing

Brent Allen's Bio

Love to climb and snowboard, not to mention be outdoors. Nature rocks. . yea!

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on August 29, 2015

always tied up, never let me down
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

My Marathon Pro rope has been great for years of outdoor lead climbing. It's lighter than any other 10.1mm rope and is as supple as any 9.8mm. The 9.8 Sterling Velocity is only lighter by 1g per meter, and the extra durability from the 10.1 is totally worth it.

Get the dry coated sheath for that extra longevity since the Marathon Pro 10.1 doesn't get fat, AND it can take tons of heinous falls with a lighter impact force and great catch. My favorite rope! Can't go wrong with Sterling Marathon Pro 10.1!

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 13, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 10"
Weight: 140 lbs
Size Purchased: S-30

So these pants are awesome. Totally awesome. While they're a bit thicker than most climbing nylon-wear, they seem less like athletic pants to the casual observer. A very adjustable built-in nylon belt and plenty of stretch helps me throw down while bouldering or rope climbing, but when I'm wearing a harness the leg loops tend to press the stitching of the crotch vent holes right into my thighs. So after a few hangs I'll start to feel the abrasiveness of the stitching and it gets a bit distracting when catching falls, on extended belays, or taking repeated whips, but whatever.

The front pockets are double lined mesh for breathability and the cargo pocket is strangely accessibly via the top or side via 2 different zippers and is the same material as the pants itself.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 13, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

This harness is really well engineered and it shows. The hip-belt fits me right where I need it to and is easily more comfortable than the Black Diamond Focus, or Momentum. The front gear loops are well designed and slide/position gear to the front for easy racking. Unfortunately the rear harness loops do not, they are standard half-moon design.

The rope loops have ample space and are probably my favorite feature. You could be tied into 3 ropes and have 2 slings attached and still have room to maneuver more through them, and they're burly and thick!

Noteworthy: The Belay loop is thinner than most harnesses I've seen/used and the metal buckles and the nylon waist/leg straps are also thin. I don't think this impedes quality, but could show wear quicker .

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 13, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I thought I'd tack this on to another order I placed as I didn't currently have any good lotions or balms left for my beaten hands. . That being said, this stuff actually does reduce swelling and pain in the hands/fingers and is made of various natural oils. I like it, and worth the dough. Thoroughly tested after a 3+ hour session on several burly, crimpy, and rather finger unfriendly 5.12 accents at the local plastic crag. My fingers were quite achy, until after some of the crimp oil. .

One other note, "crimp oil" is also made by an independent company and I have yet to determine if Metolius licensed this from Crimp Oil or made their own. .

http://www.crimpoil.com/en/

(0)

 

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 13, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Got this thing and have had a great time so far as I haven't had a new chalk bag in years. . I really loved the green/black coloring and was hoping it would be as good as my Evolv Roundtangular bag so I'd have a spare, and I think they're about the same size. Though this one feels a lot more plush.

PS: The belt wouldn't work well for anyone over a 30-32 inch waist, you'd have to get another band of nylon or cord for it.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 3, 2015

4 5

Height: 5' 10"
Weight: 140 lbs
Size Purchased: 28

Easily the most hipster piece of clothing I own, and I thriftshop. . . They're skinny, but stretch and don't hug my crotch too tightly. I love the Deep Teal color and the denim look. Pockets are large enough to actually hold stuff and people can't see the grapes. 28 waist.

(1)

 

0 Comments

0 Comments

0 Comments

0 Answers

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 23, 2013

Love-Gate
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love the gate action and feel of their shape in mah hand for both of these biners. . Who would have guessed that Mad Rock would wind up designing my favorite wire-gate ever?

The gate action is incredibly smooth on the wired end and the gate opening is huge. The keylock end clips well, but is lightweight and strong. My preferred lightweight clips for sport climbing.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love being in the NW and using my Salmon printed rope bag! Gimmicky, sure, but the blue coloring is distinct. . and the tarp, tarp pocket, and 4 tie in points keep my rope and rope ends organized and this bag is totally large enough to hold 2-60m ropes if you need to consolidate.

You can fill this bag with 15 draws, a pair of climbing shoes, a harness, and 60m 10.1mm rope with room to spare.

Durability has been great and the bag shows little signs of wear other than being craaazzzzzy dirty.

(1)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

CHALK! Soo no noticeable differences between this stuff and the BD Gold or the So ill Perscription chalk. I personally prefer the cheap So-Ill stuff or the Melolius Super Chalk, but the bag here is still a great purchase for reuse. I've personally refilled the bag time and again with extra chalk for a daytrip or weekend trip to the crag due to the easy pouring.

The chalk starts out rather chunky, but crushes easily into fine powder really similarlly to the Black Diamond stuff.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Heh, These are almost identical copies of the La Sportiva Testarossa's. I am willing to bet production stopped for that reason alone. . but who knows.

I have climbed incredibly overhanging sport and boulders with these and they have edged and gripped like a dream and gotten me through the v5's and 5.12's I needed them to.

I have size 9.5 feet and I got these in 7.5's and they were almost impossible to climb with in the beginning. Now they've molded and stretched to my exact foot shape while maintaining that high downturned toebox. And I love them!

Unfortunately, both toes, where the sole meets the rand, have an ever so slight peel. This has been since the first month of climbing and hasn't peeled further or affected the shoes precision in any noticable way. I would say I watch my footwork too, but even so I think the size stretching is the real culprit here.

(1)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 22, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These are one of my favorite outdoor shoes for their comfort, precision, and grippyness both in the toe, heel, and rand rubber. That being said, the 2.0's that came out are not the same. The sizing in them is different from the older model as well as the fit in the toebox, and arch. I have high arches, and a smaller heel and do not have morton's toe. I tried and tested the new pontas in hopes of capturing for me what the original pontas held, but alas.

To each is own, and I know plenty of people that swear by the newer model 2.0's.

I have 9.5 inch feet and got these in a comfy/precise 8.0

(1)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been rocking this rope for the past year and a half and it has held up remakably with only minimal sheath fuzzing through both indoor and lots of outdoor abuse.

It hasn't taken as much damage as some of my buddies similar diameter ropes, but it seems to always get to be the lead / top rope-rope of choice. Love the soft supple handling and the weight on it is crazy light for it's sizing.

If I have a choice I always grab the marathon pro over my friends ropes for a dicey lead situation. Additional thoughts: This rope stretches A LOT on lead falls, be weary of the first couple bolts. . like always?

(1)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Easily my favorite headlamp in the price-range. It is very lightweight, projects the widest beam of any headlamp I own, Very bright for your immediate surroundings and last days of usage!

I have caved, climbed, and hiked for hours and hours with this bad boy, and I love the color of the Teal strap cause it lets everyone know you're rocking the Tikka 2 ;)

(1)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 22, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I have some not so good knee tendons and when it comes to hiking and I can't do anything above 6-8 miles without feeling like there is a arrow in my knee. . *cough* Anyway, these poles are ultra compact and have held up just fine so far to general up and down wear and tear. I can navigate just fine with a single pole which allows me to share, but having the second really comes in handy for all day trekking.

At first I thought the folding a Z-Pole and FlickLock Pro mechanisms were a bit gimicky, but they're just so uber quick to deploy and have been super stable, no complaints what-so-ever.

(1)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been using this for over a year now and I love it, for the price it can't be beat. When I first picked up a large tub for under 10 bucks I thought it must have been on sale, lol nope. Just pure chalk like the BD stuff w/o the outrageous brand name price gouging.

I still buy super chalk and occasionally mix it with this, but hey I have super moist hands. .

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: Runs large

On a random day it happened I was in the rei gear garage early in the morning and a glistening brand new pair of these cuties were just sitting there on the shelf. Stunned, I slid on over and did an initial inspection, pristine condition! After a brief scoff at the tinyness of the shoe I figured, what the hell, and plunged my left foot into one. AMAZING FIT! Beguiled as I was, I immediately purchased the "used" shoe and haven't looked back since.

I have a 9.5 inch feet, as a guy, and I managed to squeeze them into a pair of 7.0's without too many issues. I could not manage a pair of 6.5's onto my feet, of that, I am certain.

I have bouldered in these for about a month and the lining inside makes the shoe incredibly comfortable, the midsole is stiff and supportive for micro edging, and the heel is the most minimalistic I've worn. The heel is even more low-volume than the Womens teal Anasazi Lv's I own in a similar size (wms 8.5 anasazis are the same length as a pair of these in 7.0??).

True to evolv, the rubber is grippy and sensitive, but with the shoes extra supportive mid-layer I am edging and smearing with confidence on anything (Bolt holes!! Huzzah!) and for the price I'll certainly keep a pair of these handy (even though I didn't pay the full 90 bucks for them)!

(1)