Brent Allen

Brent Allen

Seattle, WA

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Brent's Passions

Backpacking
Snowboarding
Trail Running
Mountain Biking
Hiking
Paddling
Ice Climbing
Mountaineering
Kayaking
Sport Climbing
Bouldering
Alpine Touring
Trad Climbing
Yoga
Swimming

Brent's Bio

Love to climb and snowboard, not to mention be outdoors. Nature rocks. . yea!

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love the gate action and shape in hand for both ends of this biner. Who would have guessed that Mad Rock wound up designing my favorite wiregate ever?

The gate action is incredibly smooth on the wired end and the gate opening is huge. The Keylock end is pretty generic, but lightweight and strong and my preferred clips for sport climbing.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love being in the NW and using my Salmon printed rope bag! Gimmicky, sure, but the blue coloring is distinct. . and the tarp, tarp pocket, and 4 tie in points keep my rope and rope ends organized and this bag is totally large enough to hold 2-60m ropes if you need to consolidate.

You can fill this bag with 15 draws, a pair of climbing shoes, a harness, and 60m 10.1mm rope with room to spare.

Durability has been great and the bag shows little signs of wear other than being craaazzzzzy dirty.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

CHALK! Soo no noticeable differences between this stuff and the BD Gold or the So ill Perscription chalk. I personally prefer the cheap So-Ill stuff or the Melolius Super Chalk, but the bag here is still a great purchase for reuse. I've personally refilled the bag time and again with extra chalk for a daytrip or weekend trip to the crag due to the easy pouring.

The chalk starts out rather chunky, but crushes easily into fine powder really similarlly to the Black Diamond stuff.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 23, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Heh, These are almost identical copies of the La Sportiva Testarossa's. I am willing to bet production stopped for that reason alone. . but who knows.

I have climbed incredibly overhanging sport and boulders with these and they have edged and gripped like a dream and gotten me through the v5's and 5.12's I needed them to.

I have size 9.5 feet and I got these in 7.5's and they were almost impossible to climb with in the beginning. Now they've molded and stretched to my exact foot shape while maintaining that high downturned toebox. And I love them!

Unfortunately, both toes, where the sole meets the rand, have an ever so slight peel. This has been since the first month of climbing and hasn't peeled further or affected the shoes precision in any noticable way. I would say I watch my footwork too, but even so I think the size stretching is the real culprit here.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These are one of my favorite outdoor shoes for their comfort, precision, and grippyness both in the toe, heel, and rand rubber. That being said, the 2.0's that came out are not the same. The sizing in them is different from the older model as well as the fit in the toebox, and arch. I have high arches, and a smaller heel and do not have morton's toe. I tried and tested the new pontas in hopes of capturing for me what the original pontas held, but alas.

To each is own, and I know plenty of people that swear by the newer model 2.0's.

I have 9.5 inch feet and got these in a comfy/precise 8.0

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been rocking this rope for the past year and a half and it has held up remakably with only minimal sheath fuzzing through both indoor and lots of outdoor abuse.

It hasn't taken as much damage as some of my buddies similar diameter ropes, but it seems to always get to be the lead / top rope-rope of choice. Love the soft supple handling and the weight on it is crazy light for it's sizing.

If I have a choice I always grab the marathon pro over my friends ropes for a dicey lead situation. Additional thoughts: This rope stretches A LOT on lead falls, be weary of the first couple bolts. . like always?

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Easily my favorite headlamp in the price-range. It is very lightweight, projects the widest beam of any headlamp I own, Very bright for your immediate surroundings and last days of usage!

I have caved, climbed, and hiked for hours and hours with this bad boy, and I love the color of the Teal strap cause it lets everyone know you're rocking the Tikka 2 ;)

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I have some not so good knee tendons and when it comes to hiking and I can't do anything above 6-8 miles without feeling like there is a arrow in my knee. . *cough* Anyway, these poles are ultra compact and have held up just fine so far to general up and down wear and tear. I can navigate just fine with a single pole which allows me to share, but having the second really comes in handy for all day trekking.

At first I thought the folding a Z-Pole and FlickLock Pro mechanisms were a bit gimicky, but they're just so uber quick to deploy and have been super stable, no complaints what-so-ever.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been using this for over a year now and I love it, for the price it can't be beat. When I first picked up a large tub for under 10 bucks I thought it must have been on sale, lol nope. Just pure chalk like the BD stuff w/o the outrageous brand name price gouging.

I still buy super chalk and occasionally mix it with this, but hey I have super moist hands. .

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: Runs large

On a random day it happened I was in the rei gear garage early in the morning and a glistening brand new pair of these cuties were just sitting there on the shelf. Stunned, I slid on over and did an initial inspection, pristine condition! After a brief scoff at the tinyness of the shoe I figured, what the hell, and plunged my left foot into one. AMAZING FIT! Beguiled as I was, I immediately purchased the "used" shoe and haven't looked back since.

I have a 9.5 inch feet, as a guy, and I managed to squeeze them into a pair of 7.0's without too many issues. I could not manage a pair of 6.5's onto my feet, of that, I am certain.

I have bouldered in these for about a month and the lining inside makes the shoe incredibly comfortable, the midsole is stiff and supportive for micro edging, and the heel is the most minimalistic I've worn. The heel is even more low-volume than the Womens teal Anasazi Lv's I own in a similar size (wms 8.5 anasazis are the same length as a pair of these in 7.0??).

True to evolv, the rubber is grippy and sensitive, but with the shoes extra supportive mid-layer I am edging and smearing with confidence on anything (Bolt holes!! Huzzah!) and for the price I'll certainly keep a pair of these handy (even though I didn't pay the full 90 bucks for them)!

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small

First off, I love these shoes. Everythin' about them, EVVERRRYYYTHINNNGGG.

I am a guy with 9.5 inch feet and I wear a pair of 8.5's in these as my high performance lead/boulder shoe. As a guy, I downsized 2 sizes from my foot size and the break-in period took about 1+ month of serious climbing. Now they are perfectly molded to my footbox, toes, heelcup, and arch.

I have a high arch, and a smaller heel and these are exactly what i needed in a high performance flat soled shoe.

The Steath rubber is mega grippy, without sacrificing durabilty, I mostly bouldered in them for 6 months before the toe started to thin out and I was in need of a resole. Easily the most confidence inspiring shoe I have when on Slab, Vert, or even slightly overhanging terrain.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote a review of on December 22, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I generally wear tiny uncomfortable shoes when I boulder, but I got my "comfy" size in the Anasazi's for outdoor leading and general bouldering days when my feet have swelled up and I can't fit into my performance shoes anymore. My foot is 9.5 inches long, and I got these in 8.0. I have about a half inch or so of play in the toes when i'm crimping them, so I could have sized down another half size with ease, but this is what I got them for.

The Onyx rubber is incredibly sticky and durable and these have quickly become a shoe I go to day after day just for the sheer comfort, performance, and durability of them. The support is there for micro edging and they smear like a dream too.

The heel cup takes some time to break in, but once they do (i don't have a large heel) they hook like a dream with minimal deadspots. They suction well enough to my feet so i'd say 9 times out of 10 I don't even close the velcro on them. Can send and send in comfort and style. Get a pair. Get two! Get them now!

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen posted an image about on March 22, 2012

gym time, all the time

Finished up my wall with some additional holds and I really am glad with the way the Simulator 3D fits in to the mix. The workouts and the finger training with it have been great!

. . and I've only cracked my head on the ceiling once so far, and it was because I am an idiot . . :D

Keep in mind the whole thing is below the top of my door frame by about 10 inches or so.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote an answer about on February 6, 2012

I extended the 3/4" backboard about 8-10...

I extended the 3/4" backboard about 8-10 inches below the top of my doorframe. So now the hangboard sits just above head level and I can do full extension pull ups well above the board with no issues whatsoever. . Tall people may have an issue with this suggestion. I'm about 5'11" and I'm maybe 2-3 inches from hitting my head on the hangboard when walking through the doorway.

I used 2 extra sections I cut off the 3/4" backboard I had to act as a buffer so the board doesn't sit right on the doorframe. The backboard ended up being 21"x48" before I set it into the studs so I could screw some extra holds in later.

OH! AND I can still close the door just fine!

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote an answer about on February 3, 2012

The hangboard comes with 8 screws to attach the hangboard to a 3/4" plywood backing (3/4" plywood back board needs to be attached to the framing members or studs of your house and is not included).

Of the 8 Screws, 3 of them are about 2" long, 3 of them are about 2 1/2" long, and 2 are about 3" long.

Since the screw placements are seated at different depths in the board, and there is a curvature to the board itself which adds to the depth, you'll have to go through a bit of trial and error to figure out which sized screws are meant for which of the 8 holes.

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Brent Allen

Brent Allen wrote an answer about on February 3, 2012

9.5 inches = my foot too.

I had tried these on to get a bit of feel for them while at the gym. 8.5 was my "agressive fit" size, but I may have been able to go down another 1/2 size. The stretch is another story.

Since they're highly shaped for a shoe, in the toebox especially, I would try them on for yourself if at all possible.

9.0 in Evolv Primes
8.0 in Evolv Pontas

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