bmy4642045

bmy4642045

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Brett's Passions

Climbing

Brett's Bio

bmy4642045

bmy4642045 wrote a review of on August 23, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've had this harness for about four years now and it's seen a great deal of use. When I bought a cheap harness, I thought I would've upgraded by now, but I'm having trouble finding reasons to spend more money. The only thing that I would like on this harness is room for ice clippers.

This is a pretty comfortable harness, especially considering it doesn't have a lot of padding. It does well with regular use and a day of multi-pitch with limited hanging belays is probably the upper limit of comfort. I haven't had a lead fall hurt with this harness other than an awkward sideways fall.

The haul loop is nice to have (also good for anchoring for belaying) and I will never buy a harness without the quick buckles after having this. This is also a very durable harness. It has seen a lot of scraping up slabs and aretes, sliding down hard snow and scraping around in a cave or two and it's still got years ahead of it.

The gears loops are good at staying out of the way when they need too, and they are positioned pretty well. They barely fit the safety leash to my nut tool, but that's the only slight downside.

All around, this is a great harness. My experience is primarily rock climbing with smaller amounts of ice climbing and alpine. It's fairly lightweight, comfortable and very durable. Also, it's important to remember when choosing a size that climbers are smaller than the average population. I have a 30 inch waist, which I thought a medium would fit perfectly and i have it as tight as it can go. It is nice that I can easily fit it over heavy winter layers though.

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bmy4642045

bmy4642045 wrote a review of on June 21, 2012

5 5

This is this first harness that I bought and I could not ask for more from it. It's lightweight and packs down pretty well. it has the easy to use buckle, because doubling back is a waste of time and a pain, especially in the winter. It has enough gear loops and for a cheap harness it is surprisingly comfortable. I've never come back from a long day of multipitch with bruises from this, which is something that I can't say is true of the other harnesses I've used. Frankly, I don't know why anyone would bother spending $50 dollars more on a harness that will do the same thing. The only thing it doesn't have is space for ice screw clips, but I don't have to worry about that. Also, this harness has stood up to a year and a half of moderate to heavy use with little more than some paint scraped off the buckle.

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bmy4642045

bmy4642045 wrote a review of on May 28, 2012

5 5

I can't attest to all sizes since I only have the 00, but it is an excellent piece of gear. The only thing I would consider getting for such a small size. C3's are good, but they have a double stem which is absurd for a cam that is supposed to fit in the smallest and hardest to protect cracks. the single stem is much more versatile. It won't walk at all and it feels solid. haven't fallen on one so i can't say much about it's durability. the biggest downside i have found is that it is pretty easy to get stuck, but that is likely to happen with any very small cam.

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bmy4642045

bmy4642045 wrote a review of on May 28, 2012

5 5

now i know that the hardest thing to do for a cam company is rival camalots, but i think these do a good job. they're not as good in some respects. they are limited by the double stem and they don't have the range since they are single axle. The benefits are that they are cheap and light. in regular horizontal or vertical cracks these feel way more solid than any other cam i've used. They don't walk too much and they hold well. also, they're pretty easy to get out. i wouldn't recommend the small ones or the large ones. 1-4 are great but the small ones don't fit well in awkward spaces and the big ones don't feel as bomber as a single stem cam because they will tend to walk. overall a great cam and well worth the money.

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bmy4642045

bmy4642045 wrote a review of on May 28, 2012

4 5

Let me start off by saying that this is an excellent shoe. It grabs edges like nothing else and the stiffness is great for holding yourself in place when you need to place gear without you feet getting to tired. The thing is it isn't what I would expect from an all around shoe. it's great for cracks and edging. It's also comfortable, but the rubber is not sticky. I guess this is what makes it durable and better at edging, but I have other shoes that smear much better than this. Also, it is very overpriced. They're not worth the money especially considering the durability, which i find lacking. Right out of the box the rubber had visible joints as if it had been resoled. only a dozen days of climbing later and the rubber is beyond peeling. no problems with the bottom of the toe but considering they are designed with big wall in mind i feel like they'd only hold up to half a summer of climbing. Definitely 4 or 5 stars for performance but overall they aren't that amazing. One last note. The high top is not so great for wandering around the woods since twigs and dirt get stuck in them, but they are the best idea ever for corners and cracks.

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bmy4642045

bmy4642045 wrote a review of on April 10, 2012

5 5

This is the only helmet that has every consistently convinced me to wear it. it's lightweight, comfortable, adjustable and seems pretty solid. the only drawback is that it probably wouldn't be my first choice for ice climbing. it has a thin plastic shell and then foam, which i feel wouldn't hold up as well to the sharp ice chunks that are likely to hit it. i have taken a few hits from ice in it, but i feel like extensive use would have me ordering a second helmet earlier than i'd like. that being said it is the best helmet i could imagine for hot summer days at the crag.

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bmy4642045

bmy4642045 wrote a review of on December 28, 2011

5 5

It's got pretty much everything you could want. It's light, comfortable and seems pretty durable. It definitely fits better than any helmet I've tried on or owned and as a result I'll probably be more inclined to wear it. It's pretty well ventilated which is nice for when it's warm, but it also means there are more places for icicles to get in when ice climbing. Not a huge worry though and definitely a trade off worth making.

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bmy4642045

bmy4642045 wrote a review of on December 12, 2011

4 5

While not the best on the market they might be the best value. they have a single stem which helps when placing them in certain restrictive vertical cracks. they're cheaper than bd and have some useful features like cam stops and the double sling. they don't have the range of bd or the durability of metolius but they get the job done for three quarters the price.

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