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Brett's Passions


Brett's Bio


bmo4378072 wrote a review of on April 7, 2013

3 5

Approach and around for bouldering: Very good. Slipper feature is awesome
Approach to cragging: Good. Comfortable with decent traction. flimsy heel makes it difficult to pull on and off since there is only one heel loop.
Long approach with lots of gear: OK. Small light weight shoe has minimal support but is fairly comfortable even after several hours of approach. Compared to your climbing shoes your feet will be glad to be back in these.
Easy/moderate climbing: OK. the sole is pretty soft and the shoe doesn't edge well. The heel loop is already coming off, so if I downsize more my foot wouldn't get into the shoe without tearing the heel loop off completely.
General Scrambling: OK. Overall traction is good. Fine if you don't need to edge.
Aid climbing: Bad. The sole is too soft and after standing in aiders for a day the foam between the sole and the rubber started to crack/tear. Also quite uncomfortable if standing in aiders for a long time. These shoes clearly weren't designed for wall climbing but they were the only shoes I had at the time.

Next time I need approach shoes I will either look into a new shoe or go back to the 5Tennie guides.





bmo4378072 wrote a review of on March 15, 2011

4 5

Pros: Good all around. I have used these shoes for bouldering, sport, trad and crack. It is a capable shoe. The biggest strength is really good heel hooks. They smear pretty well, and they are decent for edging.

Cons: Bad for crack climbing (pain and performance). Otherwise it is a compromise shoe. Not a real high performance shoe in any category. Also if you size the shoe aggressively in order to get the most performance for bouldering and sport climbing you will want to get out of them as soon as you are off the wall (multi-pitching is out of the question). The synthetic top "leather" is not as soft and does not stretch as well as real leather. The synthetic shoes will also start to smell horrible after some use and it takes effort to make sure they aren't offensive. I use the washing machine, disinfectant spray, cedar blocks AND dryer sheets.

Conclusion: If you size these shoes aggressively you can get a lot of performance for gym climbing and moderate boulder and rope climbing. If you are starting out and you dont want to invest in 2 or 3 different pairs of shoes this is a great starting point.

Comments: I sized these shoes down to 8.5 from my 10.5 street shoes. Since they are synthetic, they will form to your foot but the top "leather" will not stretch as much as actual leather. My level is around V5 for bouldering and 5.11 on sport. At this point I am not out-climbing these shoes.