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ber2665805

ber2665805

Michael's Passions

Sport Climbing

Michael's Bio

ber2665805

ber2665805 wrote an answer about on April 5, 2012

Jeff and Jon, thanks for the advice.

Given that it is such a new jacket, I wasn't sure where it fit into the pantheon on down parkas already on the market and I didn't feel MH's website was too clear on that. I talked to MH customer service and the guy I talked to recommended the Absolute Zero for Denali still because the Nilas is more designed for Ueli's system (for people looking to move super quick and fast) than for an expedition-style climb like Denali.

It might be warm enough and guides might recommend it in the future, but I don't need to an early adapter when it comes to this, so I am going to go with the Absolute Zero just to be safe.

(2)

 

ber2665805

ber2665805 wrote a review of on February 13, 2010

5 5

These ice screws are a dream to use; they start easily; they go in quick with the grinder-knob. When your second takes them out, the ice comes out of them relatively easily; he/she isn't stuck beating them against the ice face forever and cursing. My wife has lead with these screws in mittens and found the grinder knob easy to use, so I have not experienced the same difficulty as some reviewers mentioned with the knob.

I have also used the Petzl Laser Sonic and they do not perform half as well. They only made me love my BD screws even more. Well worth the price!

(0)

 

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ber2665805

ber2665805 wrote a review of on February 13, 2010

1 5

I purchased a few of these screws to supplement the Black Diamond Express screws that make up the majority of my ice rack. I was intrigued by swivelling hanger and thought they could be safer than other ice screws because they would have some power to hold a fall while screwed half-way in.I found, however, that these screws are much more difficult to use in every other way than the Black Diamond Express screws. These screws are difficult to get started, overly difficult to screw into solid ice, and tend to bind up with ice after being removed in way the BD screws do not. When I take these screws out on the wet climb, I just put them in my jacket because I know I won't be able to get the ice out until it melts. All of these factors combined, I find that I prefer to never use these screws.Save yourself the time and go with Black Diamond.

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