i havent used the nanopuff myself but ive heard good things. i personally get super warm super fast, so im often just wearing a merino baselayer + the R1 on approaches, add the acto mx or atom lt while climbing, and carry a nice warm belay parka (just settled on the Rab Neutrino) for stops.
i find the merino layer + R1 + Acto/Atom LT will keep me warm in just about any weather if im moving (unless its super windy, in which case i put on the alpha SV).
if i were you, i'd probably keep the venta mx, and add a heftier belay jacket (the atom SV, Rab neutrino, or patagonia DAS parka, depending on your down/synth preferences) for stops. i wouldn't use the atom lt or nanopuff as a belay jacket unless it was pretty warm out.
really like these guys.
i use 'em for following ice, or leading if it's cold (anything colder than 20 or so-- any warmer and i'll wear really thin gloves). theyre a great balance of dextrous and warm. i got mediums and initially thought they were too small but after a few uses they padded out a bit; still a little small but OK.
ive used them about 10 of 15 days this winter and i gotta say im impressed so far.
only issue is the gauntlet/wrist thing, which is a little short; i typically cinch my jacket over it and haven't had any major issues.
not a fan.
i got this thing on a prodeal for following/belaying, when warmth > dexterity. but the glove liner sucks (gets pulled back into the hand almost every time you take them off, and is hard to get re-sorted) and theyre bulkier than i'd expected.
ive been using them for belaying, and theyre OK, but i vastly prefer the Punisher glove for following (or leading in colder temps), and my Mercury mitts for belaying when it gets really cold.
cool design, but short torso and runs small. im lanky (6'2" 165) and it was not nearly long enough.
i use this thing a lot for cragging (sport, trad, or ice), but i also don't hesitate to bring it along on longer alpine days-- it climbs extraordinarily well for a pack of its size, and the hipbelt is awesome for lugging crap on long approaches.
im knocking a star off for durability (mine starting wearing significantly after some scrambling around on rock) and the lack of a good crampon attachment system. i lash my crampons to the outside with some p-cord but its way less than ideal.
starting up elephants head gully in smugglers notch.... weather got nasty and i wound up throwing the Alpha SV over the top.
ive got this, a patagonia R1, an atom LT, and an alpha SV as my main ice stuff. been rocking some subset of those all winter, down to 0 degree days at willoughby and frankenstein, and its been great.
this fits nicely in the highly-breathable, decently windproof niche, when its gusting a little but the SV would be overkill. if stuff gets really nasty, i'll just bust the SV out over the atom LT and this guy.
sometimes i wish i'd gone for the Venta or Gamma, but i think this is a lot more breathable than either of those (hard to say since ive only climbed one day in the Venta).
mostly just adding to the chorus of praise and giving my sizing info.
6'2" 165lb. large is a little looser than i'd like but medium's too small. still love this thing.
colors are a little weird so i went with black. overall absolutely unbelieveable piece-- warm, light, feels great. ive worn it literally every day ive climbed this winter. i dont wash mine often enough to wear it around town, but its definitely stylish enough for that.
hood looks really stupid, but i only wear it under a helmet anyway, and it adds a TON of warmth (and keeps your neck warm way better than a hat!).
overall, WELL worth the money. this is my go-to article of clothing for literally anything other than t-shirt and shorts adventures.
love this thing. got it for this winter and immediately started living in it-- its incredibly lightweight and surprisingly warm, and also looks pretty snazzy (i have the gray).
i find it most useful as an insulating layer in cold temps (0-15 degree days) for ice climbing. on a cold, clear, windless day, its an awesome outer layer... its very much NOT windproof, but you shouldn't really expect it to be.
only gripe is that it feels very fragile-- i wouldn't wear it as an outer layer rock climbing for fear of ripping right through it.
lastly, this is probably the best price-for-function of any arcteryx piece i've seen... way better product for the money than most of their other jackets IMHO.
overall, my favorite micropuff jacket thing; beats the crap out of my old REI one.
6'2" 165 large fits great.
first off, chances are this jacket is more than you need. i bought it for ice climbing in new england, because the weather can get nasty fast. 90% of the time i would be TOTALLY fine with a cheaper jacket.
but MAN, the other 10% of the time, this thing is worth its weight in gold. ive topped out in huntington ravine in single digit temps with 90mph winds on the summit plateau (literally getting blown over) and this thing did not let ANY wind through. i was totally comfy. the handful of times i've needed it (plus the fact that its bombproof and will last forever) more than justify its cost IMO.
so if money's a major factor in your decision, look elsewhere... but if that's the case, you're probably not here anyway. if you're down to invest in top of the line shell, this jacket is it.
I've been using these for ice climbing in NH for 2.5 seasons now and love them, but I don't have the best circulation and my feet tend to suffer on colder days... I'm thinking supergaiters might help-- does anyone have suggestions for which to look at for these boots?
are you guys getting mediums back in stock anytime soon?? im 6'2" 165 and am thinking i should probably go with a M rather than L...