bananagrams

bananagrams

new england

bananagrams's Passions

Running
Climbing

bananagrams's Bio

student at dartmouth college in NH; avid rock & ice climber

bananagrams

bananagrams wrote a review of on February 4, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

really like these guys.

i use 'em for following ice, or leading if it's cold (anything colder than 20 or so-- any warmer and i'll wear really thin gloves). theyre a great balance of dextrous and warm. i got mediums and initially thought they were too small but after a few uses they padded out a bit; still a little small but OK.

ive used them about 10 of 15 days this winter and i gotta say im impressed so far.

only issue is the gauntlet/wrist thing, which is a little short; i typically cinch my jacket over it and haven't had any major issues.

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bananagrams

bananagrams wrote a review of on February 4, 2013

2 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

not a fan.

i got this thing on a prodeal for following/belaying, when warmth > dexterity. but the glove liner sucks (gets pulled back into the hand almost every time you take them off, and is hard to get re-sorted) and theyre bulkier than i'd expected.

ive been using them for belaying, and theyre OK, but i vastly prefer the Punisher glove for following (or leading in colder temps), and my Mercury mitts for belaying when it gets really cold.

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bananagrams

bananagrams wrote a review of on February 4, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

i use this thing a lot for cragging (sport, trad, or ice), but i also don't hesitate to bring it along on longer alpine days-- it climbs extraordinarily well for a pack of its size, and the hipbelt is awesome for lugging crap on long approaches.

im knocking a star off for durability (mine starting wearing significantly after some scrambling around on rock) and the lack of a good crampon attachment system. i lash my crampons to the outside with some p-cord but its way less than ideal.

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bananagrams

bananagrams wrote a review of on February 3, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

mostly just adding to the chorus of praise and giving my sizing info.

6'2" 165lb. large is a little looser than i'd like but medium's too small. still love this thing.

colors are a little weird so i went with black. overall absolutely unbelieveable piece-- warm, light, feels great. ive worn it literally every day ive climbed this winter. i dont wash mine often enough to wear it around town, but its definitely stylish enough for that.

hood looks really stupid, but i only wear it under a helmet anyway, and it adds a TON of warmth (and keeps your neck warm way better than a hat!).

overall, WELL worth the money. this is my go-to article of clothing for literally anything other than t-shirt and shorts adventures.

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bananagrams

bananagrams wrote a review of on February 3, 2013

lightweight and versatile
5 5

love this thing. got it for this winter and immediately started living in it-- its incredibly lightweight and surprisingly warm, and also looks pretty snazzy (i have the gray).

i find it most useful as an insulating layer in cold temps (0-15 degree days) for ice climbing. on a cold, clear, windless day, its an awesome outer layer... its very much NOT windproof, but you shouldn't really expect it to be.

only gripe is that it feels very fragile-- i wouldn't wear it as an outer layer rock climbing for fear of ripping right through it.

lastly, this is probably the best price-for-function of any arcteryx piece i've seen... way better product for the money than most of their other jackets IMHO.

overall, my favorite micropuff jacket thing; beats the crap out of my old REI one.

6'2" 165 large fits great.

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bananagrams

bananagrams wrote a review of on February 3, 2013

a suit of armor.
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

first off, chances are this jacket is more than you need. i bought it for ice climbing in new england, because the weather can get nasty fast. 90% of the time i would be TOTALLY fine with a cheaper jacket.

but MAN, the other 10% of the time, this thing is worth its weight in gold. ive topped out in huntington ravine in single digit temps with 90mph winds on the summit plateau (literally getting blown over) and this thing did not let ANY wind through. i was totally comfy. the handful of times i've needed it (plus the fact that its bombproof and will last forever) more than justify its cost IMO.

so if money's a major factor in your decision, look elsewhere... but if that's the case, you're probably not here anyway. if you're down to invest in top of the line shell, this jacket is it.

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bananagrams

bananagrams wrote a question about on January 20, 2013

I've been using these for ice climbing in NH for 2.5 seasons now and love them, but I don't have the best circulation and my feet tend to suffer on colder days... I'm thinking supergaiters might help-- does anyone have suggestions for which to look at for these boots?

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