a3ng25

a3ng25

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Alexander's Bio

a3ng25

a3ng25 wrote a review of on March 15, 2014

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: Runs small

As everyone says, the rubber is super soft. You can mold it to the shape of your hand if your hand is warm. The shoe feels great on. It's the best shoe I've ever worn for toe hooking. I wore the arrowheads for a little while and I think the heel in this shoe is smaller. My regular shoe for the past 2 years has been the testarossa though and these vxi weren't good enough to replace them. The shoes do fine for general climbing. They're excellent for toe hooks. They fail you on the small footwork where you need to place the front of your toes on a small edge; its painful because the rubber is so soft. So I would suggest these as a special project shoe for climbs with hard toe hooks and lack of small point-of-the-toe foot holds. I didn't have a problem with edging on the inside or outside edges or with heels.

I wear 9.5 sperrys, 40 testarossas, 10.5 arrowheads, 10.5 vxi; all the climbing shoes fit me about the same at those sizes.

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a3ng25

a3ng25 posted an image about on February 13, 2013

Windbreaker

I'm 5'11" and about 145lbs. I'm wearing the medium in the picture. I have between a +3 and +4 ape index (#rockclimbersknow).

I would have kept the jacket, but I wanted something more the weight of my old NorthFace Apex softshell. This jacket is made of a relatively stiff material to be called a softshell and is closer to windbreaker/rain shell thickness rather than what I would consider a softshell. The inside is lined with a micro layer of soft fabric. It is however warmer than a rain shell. You can feel the material change temperature very quickly like that of a rain shell, but I drove all four windows down when it was 32 degrees and snowing, vents off, for about 20 minutes and was chilled but not at all cold; no shivers.

The body was a little wider than I wanted but it would have been fine. The sleeves came about half an inch to an inch over my wrist line; how I like my sleeves on jackets. The sleeve cuffs relaxed with no way to tighten or loosen. The back drops pretty far.

Overall, I probably fit a small better than a medium. The jacket was nice but just not quite heavy enough for what I want to use it for.

And backcountry was flawless... ordered it at 11pm est time and it got here in under 48 hours (what I'd call one day shipping), for free.



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a3ng25

a3ng25 wrote an answer about on July 18, 2012

It's hard to explain but anytime youre comparing different company's shoes youre talking about pretty significant fit differences. From what I've seen, people that wear evolvs dont wear sportivas and vice versa. Maybe 5.10 & sportiva. Maybe evolv and madrock. But even in those pairings...the way each company generally shapes their shoes is just different.

It's like asking how a Honda and Toyota compare... They're both reliable car company's. Both foreign, Asian, manufacturers. Both have full lines. But there's a pretty clear difference when youre sitting in a Honda vs sitting in a Toyota. Make sense?

Go try them on...but like dan said...Sportiva is a SHOE company. I'm a sportiva fan, they fit my foot... well crafted, quality. I'd buy $175 testarossas over $50 mad rocks every day...and im not rich...

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a3ng25

a3ng25 wrote a review of on June 23, 2012

5 5

Sizing: I wear a 9 in Nike AirMax 2012s and a 9.5 in Sperry Original Boat Shoes. I wear my shoes as tight as they will get without hotspotting. I generally wear socks with my shoes but for the first week or two I usually cant stand to have the socks on with the shoes (break in period). I wear lace up Miuras in size 40 and 5.10 Arrowheads in a 43 (US10).

I wear testarossa's in a size 40 and feel like they fit the same as my other climbing shoes.

This being said, I don't think everyone should size this way. I barely pull these on. They make that suction cup sound when I put them on and off. My room mates gf wears a size 7 street and thinks her scarpa vapors in 40.5 are really tight.

The downturn is awesome. Our gym here has a bunch of overhangs...as steep as like a 60 degree from north (if that makes sense). I immediately felt like I could toe holds better than with my arrowheads or miuras. It wasn't magic, but definitely a noticeable improvement.
Toe hooks arent bad either. I didnt feel like I lost any capability to toe hook between these and my arrowheads.

Theres a V8 under the overhang with a heel hook crux move and these shoes handled it just fine. People talk about the heel giving out on them but I didnt feel they were really any worse than my other shoes. I didnt even tie them up... theyre soo tight right now lol

They have a padded tongue and the shoe feels great barefoot.

These are my new favorite shoes! (although I wish they were cheaper!) Hope this helps!..esp with sizing since when I bought mine there werent many helpful reviews.

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a3ng25

a3ng25 wrote a review of on February 3, 2012

4 5

I got these gloves mostly because I ride a bicycle year round to get places. When it starts getting colder the "liner" gloves, knit gloves, etc. dont cut it. The wind goes right through them and you might as well have nothing on your hands... those are for driving or walking or like their name suggests... as liners.

But at the same time I don't like wearing bulky full winter gloves/mittens becuase you lose all dexterity. These gloves do a great job. Theyre warm enough while I bike around. They're water proof incase it rains. And theyre thin enough that I can still do things like manipulate my house keys and phone (although touch screens don't work with these on).

For everyday use I would have preferred a shorter cuff. These cuffs are like normal winter gloves... they extend past the wrist and over your jacket sleeve. It's a good thing to most people but I just prefer mine shorter like on the liner gloves.

They're also great for the ski slopes if its not FREEZING. Any normal day these would be great to have on. The cuff that I dislike for everyday would work well to keep out the snow if you fall. And you keep more dexterity so you can strap into your board more easily.

Great glove.

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a3ng25

a3ng25 wrote a review of on February 3, 2012

4 5

The bag itself is a good bag. The tarp is big enough to actually be useful and it packs away easily.

I do wish it was smaller though. Like others have said, theres room for extra gear in this bag. You can probably see in the pictures that I put up that even with a 70m rope packed away there's a lot of space left in the top of the bag.

The strap feels fine to me.. but it's hard to adjust. It works just like the double back on a harness... but it sinches down on itself too well and it's difficult to release (to make the strap longer.

I also wish that the compression straps doubled up and attached to themselves rather than letting the end hang loose. When the bag is compressed there's a significant amount of strap just dangling around with no where to go.

All small problems... I still like the bag.

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