I'm originally from the US Virgin Islands, but am currently living in LA. I've been climbing since Oct '09 and am most interested in multipitch traditional leads. I enjoy backpacking in the mountains, and love lightweight, functional gear.
TC Pro 42.5 - Stiff, great edging, low sensitivity. I can comfortably multipitch in these, I sized them pretty comfy right out of the box. The padding makes them awesome in cracks, but the toe profile isn't super narrow, so they do suffer a tad on ringlocks/thin hands. I love them for heel-toes in wide stuff, and they're gloriously comfortable in 2-3" cracks.
Miura 42 - Took a while to break in, but now glove-like and tight
Cobra 42 - Never got as comfy as the miura's, more pressure points, aggressively snug. Good for 1 pitch at a time.
Mythos 42.5 - Way tighter on the forefoot than i liked, got rid of them.
Nago 42.5 - Super comfortable almost immediately, soft, wide forefoot, kind of low performance.
Guide Tennie - 10.5
I have one of each color - they aren't the same fabric. The Indigo is heavier, thicker, and stiffer, while the Grey is soft and light. I find myself wearing the grey all the time, and the Indigo for going out. I've found that the jeans fit a size looser than similar patagonia products. I'd probably have been happier with 31's instead of my usual 32.
Beware, the Indigo will bleed for a couple washings, maybe soak and rinse them alone or wear them in the shower once before washing with anything that could be ruined.
Not super skinny, but form flattering. In Levi speak, these would probably be a "514" instead of a "511"
(the jeans aren't this blurry in real life)
Not a demonstration of how you should clip it, just a shot of the size and design
I've used this biner a decent amount as a belay biner, primarily with a GriGri 2, and it does its job quite well. The spur totally captures the belay loop, and the magnetron locking system is reliable, quick, and easy to use.
When using this product with a GriGri, the manual recommends capturing the belay device with the spur and leaving the belay loop in the larger opening. This does result in an extra step or two when attempting to take your partner off belay, which is a tad fumbly and obnoxious. I also feel way more likely to drop my Grigri, and probably would not take this multipitching.
I recognize that these are setbacks of the Gridlock, and not the Magnetron locking system, which I like quite a bit despite its added weight.
Also obnoxious about the gridlock is the way that it hangs awkwardly from a gear loop. Blech.
All in all, the Magnetron is super nifty, and works really well, and the Gridlock has its place. This would be a great 2nd belay biner especially safe and foolproof for sport climbing, but I'll keep using a vaporlock or attache screwlock for multipitch.
This thing is silly light, wonderfully low profile [on my head] and more comfortable than most HATS i've ever worn, let alone helmets. I especially love the white color for how cool it keeps my head, and I have no doubt that it would protect my head from a falling object or an impact. This helmet provides a much greater amount of protection for the back of my head than my previous helmet [an Elios] did. This is nice, as i have slammed the back of my head into the rock at least once during lead falls.
The one downfall of this helmet is that it is fragile when in your pack, i get the feeling that if I sat on it accidentally, it could easily be ruined. The EPS on the interior is similarly delicate, don't pack it against your cams or be prepared for dents and dings.
I love these carabiners for racking - great size, weight, and now in colors that match BD, WC, and DMM
Great shoe, a lot like the Miura lace, they're versatile, high performance and sleek.
The main difference with this shoe is that its unlined leather upper and thin (3.5mm) sole make it more flexible and sensitive, but less precise than the Miura. This is great for overhangs and gym climbing, but makes them suffer on edges, especially as they break in. The vast amount of elastic needed in this shoe to keep them snug on the feet is also less comfortable than a lacing system, because you can't eliminate pressure points.
On the upside, they are not too expensive, and go on and off really easily. I sized them they same as my Miura's and the fit just a hair tighter.
Intended use: 9.5mm is thin enough to be compact and a real weight saver, but thick enough to take abrasion and still last. I bought this as a 2nd rope with the intention of using at for belaying from above on harder single pitch trad, and at multipitch areas with long approaches and a walkoff.
Things I like:
+ This rope is silky and stiff - it feeds well, especially noticeable when belaying off the anchor at the top of a pitch. This also means it has lower friction through your protection system, allowing you to stretch pitches with less drag.
+ The bipattern weave (ARC) allows for quickly finding the midpoint, and knowing when you've passed it. Great for low-light rappels or measuring pitches.
+ The sheath is a one over one twill pattern (instead of the 2/2 found in almost all other ropes). Edelweiss calls this the HD cover, Maxim calls it the "glider". I've found that it reduces friction and noticeably improves wear.
+ Light weight and compact size is highly packable. This rope weighs 2lbs less than my 10.2. Thats like being able to carry an extra Liter of water.
Things I don't like
- Rope is difficult to rappel on with a regular ATC - A freehanging single rope rap would be dangerous without an extra friction device.
- Edelweiss packages their ropes awkwardly. Make sure to read the uncoiling instructions, or be prepared for a 30-45min knot.
- Center mark braiding is bumpy and uneven. This is not the case with other manufacturers Bipattern weaves. It seems that it will catch on the rock and abrade prematurely.
Overall, I'd highly recommend this as an all around rope for hard sport, multipitch, or belaying from above. You should get something much cheaper and more durable for toproping, and look into doubles/halves for climbs with long rappel descents.