Shelton

Shelton

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Nicholas's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Climbing

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Shelton

Shelton wrote a review of on August 16, 2013

2 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I had this bag out in mild desert night temps 40's/50s and was borderline cold. Regular size , 5'10", 155 lbs, on a nemo insulated pad. I originally read the reviews for the #3 bag that seemed appropriate but was warned it ran cold so I went with this. Turns out this bag is not that warm either. My Marmot 32 degree bag seems warmer than this. I am not sure what to think but the down seems to get real thin when the bag stretches thus losing insulation ability.

I'd go with the long if you are over 5'10 also. The hood of the bag was smushed down over my face at just shy of 5'11".

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Shelton

Shelton wrote a review of on August 16, 2013

2 5

Familiarity: I returned this product before using it
Fit: Runs large

could be a nice t-shirt but that is ruined by the awkward cut. it is short and wide with very long sleeves for a ss t-shirt. look at the photo and you can see what i am getting at. if you are at all fit and lean (ie a typical rock climber's body) stay away.

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Shelton

Shelton wrote an answer about on August 15, 2013

more aggressive shoes like this are not going to be comfortable to keep on long if you buy them in a size appropriate for performance. my muiras are over a year old and i cant leave them on for longer than two or three sport routes in the gym. I am sure I probably sized mine tighter than you so I did have excruciating pain on top of my toes the first few weeks but that goes away and they are quite comfortable now. just give them time to break in and you should be fine.

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Shelton

Shelton wrote an answer about on June 8, 2012

I posted this yesterday in my Cobra review and follows Euro sizes.

3.5 or 4 down from street (Miura VS)
4.0 down from street (Cobra)
4.5 down from street (Solution)
5.0 down from street (Futura)

FYI, I measure a little over a 10.5 and wear 11 street shoes ..

40 Miura VS (would go down .5 for ultimate performance)
39.5 Cobra (tight but comfortable, a 40 gets sloppy quick)
39 Solution
10.5 Five Ten Blackwings

The Teams fit me odd. I liked the Blackwings since I have a lower volume foot. If you have a higher volume foot your downsizing from street for the Sportiva shoes I posted may be less but the interrelation between sizes should still be mostly accurate. A lot of the sizing advice on here is off IMO. They are either sizing shoes for comfort, still sort of new to climbing and not pushing grades, have high volume feet, or are giving advice without climbing in the shoes long enough and don't realize that in another 1-2 months the shoes will be too big.

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Shelton

Shelton wrote a review of on June 7, 2012

5 5

I've had a few pair of these and they are still one on my favorite shoes. I use them for warm-ups, gym endurance training, and most of my bouldering up to a certain level and type of climbing. For overhanging caves you probably want the Solution or Pythons.

For a performance fit you want 4 Sizes down from street!

There is a lot of questionable climbing shoe sizing advice on Backcountry so be careful what you use as a guide. The following suggestions (best for lower volume feet) are pretty accurate IMO and matches the words of others who seem to speak with wisdom...

3.5 or 4 down from street (Miura VS)
4.0 down from street (Cobra)
4.5 down from street (Solution)
5.0 down from street (Futura)

For example, with a 10.5 street shoe you want about a 39.5. Yes its going to hurt for awhile but otherwise they will be sloppy after breaking in.

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Shelton

Shelton wrote a review of on June 7, 2012

1 5

I fit in the small leg loops (with plenty of room to spare) and medium waist belt. There was no way to wear the harness without exchanging the swami belt and leg loops from two different sizes. The small waist belt was too tiny and the medium leg loops were huge.

Worst part was the the vice they created between your legs and the crushing of 'man parts'.

The leg loops are too wide on top and the sides were they come up from under your legs. This has two negatives...

When you high-step the harness cuts into the top of your leg/hip area and impedes movement. When you belay or take a fall prepare to have your junk crushed by wide leg loops scissoring your nuts.

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Shelton

Shelton wrote an answer about on June 7, 2012

I dont know about the Speedsters but try 1/2 size DOWN from the Solution.

That is the suggestion I got from La Sportiva before they were released and a few people at my gym got the Futuras and are saying the same thing, 1/2 down from their Solutions is best.

The Sportiva rep also had this to say " It fits pretty similarly to the Solution. From the materials, the Futura may stretch a little more than the Solution but only barely and probably hardly noticeable." but also said the Futura has a narrower heel so if you have a narrow heel you probably definitely want 1/2 size down. I'm guessing if you have a higher volume foot maybe you will not need to down size.

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Shelton

Shelton wrote a review of on June 4, 2012

2 5

I see this pack works for some people but for me this was one of the most uncomfortable and awkward bags I've ever carried something in. I had about 10 lbs at the most in the bag today and was miserable. A jansport school backpack would of even been better.

I'll just touch on a a few points,

- The straps are too narrowly spaced where they attach to to the bag. No matter what I tried they dug into my neck. I am 5'11, 160, 15 in neck, with an average climbers build. I noticed they dont tapper outwards like a V shape such as other packs. They straps run straight towards the sides of my neck rather then being attached at an angle that tapers out and around.

- The straps each could be a little wider and the overly engineered padding does no good really, they just need to add width to distribute the weight and simplify them . The current ones are abrasive and feel bad against your skin.

- Also, I think the entire pack is too narrow which might be contributing to the design of the shoulder straps.

- The side pockets are near worthless. I dropped two things out of them minutes apart and had to backtrack to find a missing item. You can do water bottles but if you are moving around they will pop out pretty easily.

The only thing I really enjoyed about the bag was the removable top and the color lichen.

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Shelton

Shelton wrote a question about on February 4, 2012

Is there a size chart available yet? I did not see one on the the BD website either. I have the Petzl Hirundos in sz medum but it is too big. Wondering if I'll take a small in this. 5'11", 153 lbs, 30.5 waist, and skinny legs. The Hirundos is maxed tight on me and the leg loops are just a little too big for comfort when taking falls.

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