Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam

Live in Raleigh, NC and play wherever I can. NC and WV are the usual haunts. Home away from home is UT, I reckon.

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Scott's Passions

Trad Climbing
Snowboarding
Mountain Biking
Road Cycling
Ice Climbing
Bouldering

Scott's Bio

I grew up out in rural NC, but don't swim and don't care much for water that isn't frozen or shallow. I love rock -- sandstone, quartzite, granite, gneiss, limestone -- as well as Forged Friends, Tri-cams, tree shots in UT powder, my Ellsworth Epiphany, adventure climbing, whiskey, and whisky. I have been known to descend in the dark.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on April 25, 2011

5 5

Funny how Tricams seem to divide the world, east coast/west coast, traditional (or noob) from sprad, etc. Some folks swear they "never leave the ground" without their pinkie. Then again, some folks carry three belay devices with them at all times. Heck, there's at least one person out there with a pink Tricam tattoo. I've heard people talk about carrying doubles, even triples of the pink.

I do like Tricams. Sometimes they fit in places that cams and won't. Sometimes they allow me to carry fewer cams. On multi-pitch routes I might build the belay mostly with Tricams and let my partner have the similarly sized cams for the next pitch. And Tricams take the place of big nuts or cowbells. Oh, I mean hexes.

Yes, Tricams can fix. I lost one on the Original Route on Whitesides. I was way run out (on admittedly moderate ground) and getting tired. I found a solution pocket that would take a pink. I jammed it in, set it, and wrote it off. I knew my partner (mostly a boulderer) would never get it out, but having the protection was worth it.

I carry from 0.25 to 3.0, and in my regular circuit at my home crag, I will place them all multiple times in the course of a day.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on April 25, 2011

5 5

When I first saw these I thought they were overbuilt and over thought, that individual spring idea seemingly too much technology packed into a tiny climbing cam. But I ordered the smallest sizes, 000 and 00, guessing that when the chips were down, and only those fit, I'd be thrilled. SquirrelIy east coast rock rewards variety in one's rack and I quickly discovered that those sizes were just a bit smaller than their Metolius counterparts. perfect counterpoint. Excellent.

Next a buddy and I put up a new route that took his green C3 better than anything else. So I dropped by the store picked up that one. Later that same year we went to Red Rocks and I whipped off on that size. It held like a champ, saving me from smacking a ledge.

Sold on C3s, I got the yellow. It takes up that subtle gap between blue and yellow TCUs. In fact it fits nicely in the crux of one of my favorite routes, in a flare where a blue TCU is trash and a yellow won't fit. That piece tames that runout just a bit.

So I'm a big fan now. I own the red C3, but never carry it. One day I'll find the perfect place for it and be sad that it is hanging in the closet at home.

All that said, falling on one of these in a horizontal will probably mank the crap out of it, as it will any cabled cam.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on November 17, 2009

5 5

Ever seen pictures of folks climbing in painter pants? There was a reason for that. These serve the same purpose -- super durable and comfoprtable, but you can wear them out to the bar as well as the crag. I've rolled my up for craggin' or bouldering and dashed out them out to a nice dinner with a collared shirt tucked in. I find I have plenty of room to move for climbing even if they don't stretch like a prAna jean. All in all, a great pant.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on March 13, 2009

4 5

Carry most of these regularly on the gear rack, blue, yellow, orange. I've substituted the yellow C3 for the TCU as the C3 is a bit smaller and fits nicely between the blue TCU and the yellow Alien. Occasionally TCUs fit in places no other cam will. The smallest sizes are still handsome, well-made units, but I prefer a 4-cam unit when I can get one.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on March 13, 2009

5 5

I fell on the #3. It was in a shallow flared seam. The ball rotated in the groove of the nut and held fast. The piece was hard to clean, but held the fall like a champ. The 2 and 3 stay on the racking biner with my small stoppers, rocks and microstoppers. Even the larger ones will go places that cams will not. I do not consider the smallest size worthy of lead falls of any size, however.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on March 13, 2009

3 5

In smooth, parallel cracks these function great, both going in and coming out. In irregular crack sthey can be a pain in both directions. The noodle-ish stem can cause problems, and the doubled sling is not that useful. I'd rather just have a beefier single sling. These have a nice range, and definitely outshine the tech friends. But I would chose Aliens, C3s, Master Cams, and TCUs over these.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on February 17, 2009

4 5

These make fantastic craggin' packs. Indestructible and pretty much waterproof, they stand up to a lot abuse. And they carry surprisingly well, but only up to a point. With a big rack, a rope and too much water my shoulders start to complain and the hip belt won't take much weight off. That is my only complaint. Just keep the size of your load in check and this pack will work great. Overload and you'll be hurting. If you tend to carry a lot, I'd get the smallest haul bag instead.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on February 12, 2009

5 5

A nut is not a nut. These have a very different shape from Stoppersm, and so they make a nice complement for stoppers. The sizing the two profiles are closer than Stoppers. Sometimes you can just rotate the nut for the perfect fit. Plus these have a new flare-friendly shape. I usually carry 1-8.

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Scott Gilliam

Scott Gilliam wrote a review of on February 12, 2009

5 5

These cams are great. Super reliable and lightweight, they make a nice base for any active rack. And for vertical cracks, I believe there is no better cam. I almost always have the 2, 3 and 4 in the gear bag; they are perfect compliments to my Forged Friends. I do have one complaint. The longer stem, because of the loop, makes it nearly impossible to palm the end of the stem, pull the trigger at the same time. With the previous Camalots this occasionally made it easier to slap the cam into a crack in the back of a dihedral. Instead, one has to use a thumb in the loop and place the cam with your palm facing away.

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