Sandy Preiss

Sandy Preiss

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Alexander's Passions

Climbing

Alexander's Bio

Sandy Preiss

Sandy Preiss wrote a review of on December 3, 2012

4 5

If a light solo tent is what you are looking for, this is a great choice. It is well designed and highly functional. If you do lots of solo backpacking trips, this would be a great piece of gear.

If you are serious about UL you can go a lot lighter with a tarp. If you usually backpack with a partner, splitting the weight and sharing a 2-man tent is more comfortable and lighter. But if you are an avid lightweight (not UL) solo backpacker and want to retain the creature comfort of having a tent, I don't think you'll beat the Seedhouse SL1.

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Sandy Preiss

Sandy Preiss wrote a review of on December 3, 2012

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Outstanding jacket. Very warm for the weight. No unnecessary features, everything you want.

I do wish I had a hood sometimes. In retrospect, I might go with a hooded jacket for all-around capability.

Also, I have about 8 tape patches, and counting. Keep in mind that the material is pretty fragile.

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Sandy Preiss

Sandy Preiss wrote a review of on December 3, 2012

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Master Cams are untouchable for fingers down. They have a perfect combo of 4-lobe security, narrow head width, nice action, and flexy stem. I do carry some C3s for doubles for super narrow spots, but I almost always reach for the MCs first.

Size 0 and 00 are not ideal for free, since C3s and TCUs in this range are a couple of Kn stronger. C4s are better from .75 up. But blue through red MCs are some of my favorite pieces.

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Sandy Preiss

Sandy Preiss wrote a review of on December 3, 2012

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The design of these biners is super trick. They are as light as it gets and have 90% of the benefit of a keylock - there is a little nubbin at the end of the mono-wire gate that can catch a rope or finger - nothing compared to a real notch but not completely smooth like a keylock gate. At any rate, the design is great and they are the lightest draws I have ever seen, but the fact is the S is simply too small for smooth clips. If you are interested in ultralight quickdraws, I highly urge you to eat a few more grams and go with the L on the clipping side. Or get WC Heliums, which are even bigger and almost as light.

On a related note, however, I have become dubious of the value of ultralight sport draws. If you do lots of hard onsight attempts, then they are nice. For projects, though, they are pretty pointless. And once you get used to carrying a trad rack, the difference between 12 "normal" draws and 12 UL draws is pretty negligible.

The Petzl Spirit is bigger, tougher, and has a certain intangible perfection to the clip that no other draw, including the Ange L, can match for me. Unless you are really into hard sport onsight attempts, I suggest the Spirit as the ultimate quickdraw.

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Sandy Preiss

Sandy Preiss wrote a review of on October 31, 2011

5 5

I have led pitches on friends' BD stoppers as well as my Wallnuts. My general impression is that the complex shape of the Wallnuts (shallow cutouts on the wide sides and a slightly more pronounced curve) sometimes give you a better placement. I climb on featured, East Coast rock, and I especially notice that a small crystal or bump will sometimes seat nicely in the cutout and give you extra confidence that the piece won't walk. If you want the best, Wallnuts are it. The question is whether you feel the need for that slim advantage over cheaper options like the standard BD stoppers.

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