Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey

Southeastern Idaho, Tetons, Big Holes, and Yellowstone

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Ryan's Passions

Camping
Backpacking
Snowboarding
Mountain Biking
Paddling
Sport Climbing

Ryan's Bio

Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on November 11, 2013

3 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: Runs large

Size: I wear a size 41 street shoe (size 8.5 US). I normally wear a 40.5 in climbing shoes (size 8 US). I bought a 40.5 and found that it was a perfect fit for now but this shoe is unlined leather. This means it will stretch as you sweat and climb in them. I may go for a full size down.

Performance: Before you become to critical of the shoe it is important to note its purpose. I normally climb in Scarpa Instincts a far more aggressive and expensive shoe. It would be ridiculous to expect an $80 shoe to perform like a $150. The rubber is not particularly sticky though it does the job. It edges well, and has no baggy heel (normally a problem in most shoes for me). I bought the shoe because I wanted something that wouldn't hurt my feet when training in the gym or doing lite climbing with friends. It has done everything I wanted it to.

Recommendation: I would recommend this shoe to people buying their first pair of shoes. It is not a high performance shoe but does the job and is super cheap. I personally believe that unlined leather lace-ups are usually the best climbing shoes for fit and comfort. I would also recommend this shoe for people who need a comfortable gym shoe. I would not recommend this shoe for bouldering. It just isn't aggressive enough for bouldering.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on October 26, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs large

Fit: I'd go a half or full size down from your street shoe size. I went a half size and there is still a bit of bagginess in the heel but if I go any smaller my toes will likely fall off. The toe box is relatively wide, not recommended for people with narrow feet. The leather will stretch a bit to fit your feet nicely and also dies them bright red.
Performance: Great for overhung and excellent at edging. Makes for an excellent bouldering shoe. The rubber is not as sticky as the discontinued Vibram XS Grip2 version that is still available in some sizes (as of October 2013) but it is still superior than most rubber I have ever seen except may be Five Ten rubber.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on September 2, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

First off, this pad is reasonably priced. It is also relatively firm. taking a fall on it still hurts but your not going to break anything and you won't be hitting the rocks underneath. the straps on the side makes it turn into a little love seat sized chair that is surprisingly comfortable (I use it frequently around the fire after a day of bouldering on camping trips). I have found that it is a very commonly owned pad which is nice because it has velcro tabs on the sides that make it possible to connect your pad with others making a mad rock mega awesome pad!.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on September 2, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

This is perhaps the best jacket I have ever purchased. It is comfortable and fits well. It is both water and wind resistant but still breathes surprisingly well. I live in Idaho where we see subzero temperatures with high winds daily in the winter. I often wore only this and a shirt and as long as I was moving I was warm. I purchased the khaki and orange version and get compliments on it nearly every time I wear it. It works in a wide range of temperatures. I bought it for fall and spring, it definitely does the job. With a fleece underneath it would be a great winter jacket.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on September 2, 2013

2 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

I am sad to say that these were the last pair of keens I will ever own. I have owned several pair of their sandals and these shoes. All of their products that I have personally used were true to size, very comfortable, and did every function they said they would and more. They fit me well because they have a wide toe box. After only 6 months of light use both soles started separating from the rest of the shoe. This is the same problem I had with their other products. Plain and simple, they have a great design and all of the materials are great with the exception of the glue and sole rubber which wears quickly. I expect my shoes to last more than a year. None of my keens ever have. most unfortunate.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on September 7, 2012

5 5

I don't wear any other shoes in the summer. My chacos have become my only option. They are very comfortable, you don't slide around in them when they get wet, and they last forever. The tread is both durable and sticky. Vibram makes excellent rubber. The strap system was annoying to set up to fit your feet but once you got it fit right then they stay quite well especially if you get them real dirty and dirt gets into the strap slots. Good for both casual wear and long hikes.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on September 7, 2012

4 5

This bag is more of a portable tarp than anything else. It is made of durable material and is easy to use. The tarp is easily large enough. Best for local sport climbing with very little approach, the single shoulder strap can be uncomfortable on long walks. I just wish it had another compartment or at least a small zipper pocket for your keys and phone.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on September 7, 2012

4 5

I have been very impressed with this rope. I would suggest this rope for intermediate to advanced sport climbers. It is rather small for top roping but performs very well on lead. The catch is wonderfully soft. Even on top rope if you slip it'll stretch 3-5 ft. Quality construction with very durable materials. Turns your hands black even before you start getting it dirty.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on August 27, 2012

Solid draws for cheap!
4 5

Really great pack for people just getting into climbing. The rope clipping end of the draw is sewn tight so that the biner doesn't flip but does not have the rubber catch that more expensive draws have. The bolt clipping biner is extremely loose in the sling and flips a lot which can sometimes be a nuisance. You won't find a better value anywhere. (Mondy asked for some pictures, no they aren't too shiny)

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on August 26, 2012

The Ups and Downs
3 5

First off I ended up returning these pants not because I didn't like them but because I just needed something different.
Ups: The fabric is very functional, it is stretchy and the pants are gusseted for full unrestricted movement. I took them caving and I spent 6 hours crawling and sliding on sharp rocks with no visible wear. Good water and wind resistance. The pants shed water and are immediately dry after fully submerging them in water. The was nice for cold water crossings in the cave.
Downs: The belt is silly and always comes undone. There is only one pocket. As with any soft shell you have to wash it with nikwax to retain water resistance. They don't wash up as nice as other pants I've used and the fabric started to pill up (get little fuzzies) in common wear spots like the knees and butt and under my harness. Are too warm for midsummer wear but are great for fall and spring.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on March 1, 2012

5 5

Oakley never disappoints. I have had this jacket for several months of hard use, no wear. The magnetic clips are amazing, waterproof and surprisingly warm. I wore only this jacket and a capilene and was comfortable at 20 degrees. only downsides are the waist band gets snow clumps from sitting as a snowboarder and the wrist gaiters are simply cut stretchy fabric, no seams and seem like they will tear.

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Ryan Oakey

Ryan Oakey wrote a review of on September 22, 2011

4 5

Sturdy construction, sleek look, comfortable, and stylish. Great for both skiing and mountain biking. My only problem with them is that they cost $130. they come on Whiskey Militia occasionally, keep an eye open! I happen to be wearing them as I write this review.

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