Reed

Reed

Yosemite, Moab, Custer State Park

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Reed's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Snowboarding
Paddling
Yoga
Climbing

Reed's Bio

Just wrapped up a 3 month climbing trip with my buddy Gabe Skiera. Started in South Dakota and ended here in Yosemite with stops in every state along the way. The Valley and Moab are my two favorite places. Hit me up if ya wanta climb! Google+ --- https://plus.google.com/u/0/118006135358643250442/about/p/pub

Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 28, 2014

Great Gloves!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I bought these gloves with big wall use in mind, and they are awesome! I put them on at pitch 1 and they stay on till we summit. They're so nice on rappel and while aid climbing. Not having your whole hand torn up is super nice. Here are some specs.
- 3/4 length fingers (gives you optimum grip, so climbing with them on is workable).
-Cowhide main body with triple-stitched, split cowhide palm reinforcement (makes it super comfortable and very durable for rope contact on your palms).
-All wear areas are reinforced (giving them a burly but not over bulky feel).
-Double-stitched finger openings
-Bar-tacked webbing clip-in loop (so when not wearing, simply hang off a biner).
-Hook and loop wrist closure
-Embossed logo
Bomber gloves made by Metolius.
(picture) Me cheesing it up on my pitch 22 aid lead, Half Dome.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 28, 2014

Best Stoppers Out There!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

When you get something, you tend to find out more people then you thought had it too. While climbing across the States this summer, I realized these DMM Offsets could just be the most owned but more importantly, LOVED stoppers on the market. I have never heard a single complaint about them, and I sure don't have any.
They work so incredibly well in flared cracks! Size 7-9 seem to fit in just about any any and all crack. I compliment my rack with the sizes 4-6 DMM Brass Offsets, and will soon get doubles and more smaller brass.
Features
-Aluminum alloy offset nuts on wire
-Wire recessed into top of nut and full wire radius for extra strength -Lightening holes
-Color coded for easy recognition
-All stoppers are rated 12kN

A bomber nut set that should be on everyone's gear loop!

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 28, 2014

Black Diamond X4, the Best Small Cam!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I bought Black Diamond X4s this spring when I got a wicked deal on them, and I'm thrilled with the performance the cams give every time they're placed. During a three month trip we took this summer, me and my friends put them to the test on rock of all kind and in a wide range of weather conditions.
Hail, rain, and thunderstorms while in South Dakota and Wyoming. Dry sand and mud brick at Grand Junction, Moab, and City of Rocks. And Yosemite's hot, humid summer. Through that, all the funky placements and falls, the X4 cams held excellent in varieties of granite and sandstone. The cam lobes, Dyneema slings, and springs, basically every part of the cams, proved very durable through all that wear and tear.

Some of the features that really impressed me:
-The double and stacked axles give a very broad range, because of this, I'm less likely to make a sizing error.
-The larger X4's (.4, .5, and .75) head is 20% narrower then the C4. The smaller X4's (.1, .2, and .3) internal cam spring technology keeps the heads narrow, making pin scar placements possible.
-Aluminum beaded armor protects the single stem over sharp edges, horizontal placements, etc. without losing their great flexibility.
-Kevlar trigger wires on the lager sizes add to make these exceptionally durable cams.
-Dyneema sling are lightweight, tough, and brightly colored. Color code matches the C4's .3 through .75.

Aid climbing can really jank protection up. Being on 3 big walls, yes, they're a little bent but not more then expected from Clean Aid climbing. The X4s have been excellent, the lobes are very durable and the plastic around the clip-in point is nice and beefy.

Overall X4s place great in weird cracks, pods, pin scars, and even quite well in flared cracks. Black Diamond did a phenomenal job making a tough, sleek, easy to place cam. They also added easy to identify colors on the armored stem beads. Everything about the X4 is very complete and well made, not to mention just even looking awesome!

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 26, 2014

Petzl Ange S, a good, light carabiner
4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

These Petzl Carabiners are really sick! I was put off by the single wire gate design, but they are very safe and a bomber carabiner! My buddy is the owner, but we have used them on multiple big walls and routes. They are great as a loose biner for aid climbing, used on runners, and as a quickdraw. The nose is narrow, which makes cleaning while weighting a hanger a much easier task! The Ange S Ultra-Lite Wire design cut 6 grams off the Ange L Lite Wire, making it one pure ounce. This design of the Angle S has lost up to 2kN in strength and 3mm of gate opening compared to the Angle L. Here are some more detailed specs taken from Petzl's website.

Specifications
Material(s) : aluminum
Capacity: 19 mm
Certification(s) : CE EN 12275 type B, UIAA
Made in: FR
Guarantee: 3 years

Color(s): Light Gray
Reference(s): M57 G
Weight: 28 g
Major axis strength: 20 kN
Open gate strength: 9 kN
Minor axis strength: 7 kN
Gate opening: 23 mm

Color(s): Orange
Reference(s): M57 O
Weight: 28 g
Major axis strength: 20 kN
Open gate strength: 9 kN
Minor axis strength: 7 kN
Gate opening: 23 mm

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 26, 2014

Petzl Ange L, a good, strong carabiner
4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

These Petzl Carabiners are really sick! I was put off by the single wire gate design, but they are very safe and a bomber carabiner! My buddy is the owner, but we have used them on multiple big walls and routes. They are great as a loose biner for aid climbing, used on runners, and as a quickdraw. The nose is narrow, which makes cleaning while weighting a hanger a much easier task! The Ange S Ultra-Lite Wire design cut 6 grams off the Ange L Lite Wire, making it one pure ounce. The design of the Angle S has lost up to 2kN in strength and 3mm of gate opening compared to the Angle L. Here are some more detailed specs taken from Petzl's website.

Specifications
Material(s) : aluminum
Capacity: 21 mm
Certification(s) : CE EN 12275 type B, UIAA
Made in: FR
Guarantee: 3 years

Color(s): Blue
Reference(s): M59 B
Weight: 34 g
Major axis strength: 22 kN
Open gate strength: 10 kN
Minor axis strength: 7 kN
Gate opening: 26 mm

Color(s): Dark Gray
Reference(s): M59 G
Weight: 34 g
Major axis strength: 22 kN
Open gate strength: 10 kN
Minor axis strength: 7 kN
Gate opening: 26 mm

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 22, 2014

BD C4, simple yet so solid!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I would have to say these are my favorite large sized cams! Their simple sturdy design works flawlessly every time I place them. They are lighter weight then older gen., the thumb loop makes it super easy for quick placements and aid attachments , they have a great range, and are a long time award winning camming device. I own C4 cams in sizes 1-5 but I prefer the X4s when it comes to smaller sizes. A fantastic cam that I can rely on!

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 22, 2014

Oz Carabiner
4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

As you can see we really dig Black Diamond's carabiners, and the Oz are nice to have in the mix. They are the lightest weight carabiners BD makes, strong, and anti-freezing. These hot-forged bener's Hoodwire technology keeps from snagging and boost 8 grams lighter then the Neutrino while maintaining the same size wire gate. Really solid beners! My only negative experience with them is the gate on maybe half of mine were rather tough to open, a very stiff spring made these suckers a tad difficult at first.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 22, 2014

Brassy Offsets are killer!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These are the coolest little stoppers ever! They really excel in flares and pin scars, but you can find placements for the 4-6 on any route! The softness of brass and the offset shape make placing these a dream. They are very light and crazy strong. I really love using the DMM Offset Series in general, both brass and aluminum work so dang good, I never leave these behind! I free climb with the aluminum and the larger size brassy mainly, but just started aid climbing with the smaller sizes and they do an awesome job on thin seams were not much else would work. Due to being brass and soldered they do kinda get misshaped fast from the heavy abuse of aiding. But very sick nuts!
The brass offsets are a must have in my book!

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 22, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs large

Me and my buddy wore the heck out of these shoes for the past few months, and they are awesome!! You get the lightweight and agility of a sneaker, and the performance of a climbing shoe. Hiking long distance in them is comfortable, but not until your faced with a talus field on the decent do you really start to appreciate what a good job Five Ten has done with making a shoe that will keep you upright. From hiking off the Flatirons, boulder hoping pretty much everywhere, and wearing them on big walls, these shoes stood up to it all and performed! I especially enjoyed the all day comfort these shoes provided while aid climbing, and the Stealth Mi6 Rubber helped big time when pulling mandatory 5.7 moves. Five Ten doesn't limit these shoes to just approaches/climbing, they say the Ascents are the ultimate tool for freerunners, slackliners, or BASE jumpers.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 22, 2014

Really Good Tape
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is my favorite climbing tape on the market. I've tried different cheap athletic tape and this Metolius Tape I feel is superior.
-It has a good quality feel, made 100% from Cotton.
-Has great stickiness and a long life. I can usually get 3-4 days of climbing in before I gotta replace my tape gloves.
-Made in USA.
Even though it's a tad more expensive then garbage athletic tape say from wal-mart, I know from experience that it's worth it. I spent $ on 3 rolls of the cheap stuff instead of getting 2 rolls of quality tape from Metolius, it was crap and lasted half a pitch before peeling off.
(picture) At the anchors of Supercrack, Indian Creek, UT.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 21, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

After weekend climbing trips I would come home and lather my hands with Burt's Bees hand salve. It was okay, but would make my hands super greasy and wasn't very pleasant. I knew for this summer trip I would need something new. So I got 2 little tins of Metolius Hand Balm and took it with us. With chalk on our hands every day it didn't take long to get dried out. So at night I'd apply a fair amount and it worked good! Healthy hand protection but not over greasy, so you can continue on with your day. Here's some specs from Metolius' site.

-Specifically formulated for climbers' dry, chapped hands and fingers
-Antiseptic blend speeds healing and promotes new skin growth
-Can be applied directly to cuts, scrapes, sun burns, bug bites and chapped lips
-Available in 0.5oz (14 g) or 1 oz. (28 g) screw-top tins
-Made in Oregon of natural, organic ingredients: Beeswax, Almond oil, Apricot oil, Shea butter, Cocoa butter, Mango butter, St. John's Wort, Calendula, Chamomile, Chickweed, Plantain, Comfrey leaf, Olive oil, Aloe vera, Jojoba, Wheat germ, and a blend of Tea Tree and Lavender essential oils. Prepared exclusively for Metolius by Miller Creek Farms.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 20, 2014

Great Chalk!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The only chalk I use. It's not crazy special, other then keeping your sweaty mits dry when trying to keep from slipping off that crimp , but I like it. Just recently bought 2 more one pound bags at an awesome price, I went through a ton of it this summer while in more humid spots throughout the Midwest. After a ton of use I like following up with Metolius Hand Balm to keep from dried out hands.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 20, 2014

Metolius Chalk Sock
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is a great friend to have when climbing in full summer heat! I'm an advocate of chalk socks, it cuts down on waste, dries while gives an even layer of chalk to whole hand, not just fingertips, and helps me focus when catching my breath while chalking.
Some people love'em and some hate'em, but it's really just a sock that does it's job.
I do keep a little loose chalk in the bag just to insure my fingers get covered.
This sock has held up good for at least a year and I will replace it when needed with another refillable Metolius Chalk Sock.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 20, 2014

BD Dynex Runners
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These 10mm(.4") Black Diamond Dynex Runners are my favorite and most grabbed sling on my rack. I'd say their most impressive feature is being so lightweight! I used to buy 3/4" or 1/2" nylon webbing and tie water knots in them. Getting them sized right and even was a challenge. So I bought these several months ago and here's some of their specs.
-Very strong runners at 22kN.
-Extremely lightweight, a huge deal on multi-pitches. My favorite length is the 60cm(24" shoulder slings) that weighs only 0.7oz.
-Won't freeze in alpine conditions. I have not tested that, only read, but they do dry way faster then all other slings I own.
-Dynex is highly abrasion resistant. I'm pleased with the longevity they've shown while getting rubbed and cut against sharp rock.
-Great for minimizing rope drag, keeping protection from walking, and building anchors.
-Was OutDoorGearLab.com 2013 Top Pick.
My most used runner/sling on my rack. I do own a few 30cm, they have their place for sure, but I find myself grabbing the 60cm way more.
All in all, a great sling that I will continue to buy and recommend the BD Dynex Runner for all styles of climbing.

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