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Reed

Reed

Yosemite, Moab, Custer State Park

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Reed's Passions

Trad Climbing
Camping
Backpacking
Snowboarding
Hiking
Yoga
Sport Climbing
Swimming
Kayaking

Reed's Bio

just wrapped up a 3 month climbing trip with my buddy Gabe Skiera. started in South Dakota and ended here in Yosemite with stops in every state along the way. the Valley and Moab are my two favorite places. hit me up if ya wanta climb! Google+ https://plus.google.com/u/0/118006135358643250442/about/p/pub

Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 21, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

After weekend climbing trips I would come home and lather my hands with Burt's Bees hand salve. It was okay, but would make my hands super greasy and wasn't very pleasant. I knew for this summer trip I would need something new. So I got 2 little tins of Metolius Hand Balm and took it with us. With chalk on our hands every day it didn't take long to get dried out. So at night I'd apply a fair amount and it worked good! Healthy hand protection but not over greasy, so you can continue on with your day. Here's some specs from Metolius' site.

-Specifically formulated for climbers' dry, chapped hands and fingers
-Antiseptic blend speeds healing and promotes new skin growth
-Can be applied directly to cuts, scrapes, sun burns, bug bites and chapped lips
-Available in 0.5oz (14 g) or 1 oz. (28 g) screw-top tins
-Made in Oregon of natural, organic ingredients: Beeswax, Almond oil, Apricot oil, Shea butter, Cocoa butter, Mango butter, St. John's Wort, Calendula, Chamomile, Chickweed, Plantain, Comfrey leaf, Olive oil, Aloe vera, Jojoba, Wheat germ, and a blend of Tea Tree and Lavender essential oils. Prepared exclusively for Metolius by Miller Creek Farms.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 20, 2014

Great Chalk!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The only chalk I use. It's not crazy special, other then keeping your sweaty mits dry when trying to keep from slipping off that crimp , but I like it. Just recently bought 2 more one pound bags at an awesome price, I went through a ton of it this summer while in more humid spots throughout the Midwest. After a ton of use I like following up with Metolius Hand Balm to keep from dried out hands.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 20, 2014

Metolius Chalk Sock
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is a great friend to have when climbing in full summer heat! I'm an advocate of chalk socks, it cuts down on waste, dries while gives an even layer of chalk to whole hand, not just fingertips, and helps me focus when catching my breath while chalking.
Some people love'em and some hate'em, but it's really just a sock that does it's job.
I do keep a little loose chalk in the bag just to insure my fingers get covered.
This sock has held up good for at least a year and I will replace it when needed with another refillable Metolius Chalk Sock.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 20, 2014

BD Dynex Runners
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These 10mm(.4") Black Diamond Dynex Runners are my favorite and most grabbed sling on my rack. I'd say their most impressive feature is being so lightweight! I used to buy 3/4" or 1/2" nylon webbing and tie water knots in them. Getting them sized right and even was a challenge. So I bought these several months ago and here's some of their specs.
-Very strong runners at 22kN.
-Extremely lightweight, a huge deal on multi-pitches. My favorite length is the 60cm(24" shoulder slings) that weighs only 0.7oz.
-Won't freeze in alpine conditions. I have not tested that, only read, but they do dry way faster then all other slings I own.
-Dynex is highly abrasion resistant. I'm pleased with the longevity they've shown while getting rubbed and cut against sharp rock.
-Great for minimizing rope drag, keeping protection from walking, and building anchors.
-Was OutDoorGearLab.com 2013 Top Pick.
My most used runner/sling on my rack. I do own a few 30cm, they have their place for sure, but I find myself grabbing the 60cm way more.
All in all, a great sling that I will continue to buy and recommend the BD Dynex Runner for all styles of climbing.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 20, 2014

Anasazi Pinks, Best Shoe EVER!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

My first shoes were Five Ten and they'll be the only brand I'll wear if I can help it. I received these Anasazi Pinks in April and have been testing them out for the last 3 months on rock of all kinds across America. AND THEY'RE SO DOPE!

I wore them on sharp granite quartzite at the super epic Cathedral Spires, they molded to my feet quickly and provided excellent protection on the sharp rock there, while edging like a dream .

At Devil's Tower they performed great in cracks of all sizes, feeling awesome all day, never getting crazy uncomfortable and providing extreme performance.

In Boulder I climbed my hardest sport route with them, putting the heel and edging power to the test, and some faith ,while soloing the Flatirons.

Their durability on the sandstone at Indian Creek was excellent as I ticked off classics at the Supercrack/Donnelly Canyon area. They did terrific in small finger cracks and had plenty of rubber on the sides to grip and protect in hand sized cracks.

By Idaho I had complete trust in the Pinks and logged in more then a dozen FS. Climbing more sport routes once again here, they did awesome on the dessert granite.

I truly have never had the best of both worlds to this extreme, Five Ten had no loss of performance for the comfort these shoes provide.

Last, I was able to climb in Yosemite Valley for 5 weeks, wearing the Anasazi Pinks on 90% of all the routes we did. From friction slab to off-width, to beautiful hands, to lay backs. They did awesome!

Now, they smell bad, their stained in blood, and have new shoelaces. But I love these shoes!
The lined, synthetic Cowdura upper feels very good and are non-stretch. They are stiff and the laces insure the most molded fit. Thanks to a new toe box and Stealth C4 rubber, you get the most superior edging and crack dominating shoes! The new heel construction also made the Pinks more comfortable then previous Anasazi models.
Overall, best shoe I have ever worn and I highly recommend them.
(pictured) Me on Moby Dick, El Capitan Base.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 19, 2014

Meteor 3+ is a bomber helmet!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have owned this helmet for about 6 months now and I am super pleased with it! SO lightweight, great fit to the head, easily adjustable, comfortable, and quality made. I bought the Petzl Elios from another online outfitter, I didn't like the new color at all and it was the wrong size, so I returned it. I researched for some time and finally purchased this from backcountry.com while it was on sale. I really dig this lid. The large air holes and whitish color make for a very cool head even in mid-summer. I use this for all styles of climbing and I highly recommend it.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 19, 2014

most excellent daisy chain!
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love the Ultimate daisy for the same reason I dig the Metolius
Safe-Tech harness. you can't screw things up. it's weight tested for 22 kN, UIAA certified, USA made, and all around a great daisy. the double reinforced loops spread nice, even when weighted. the color option isn't huge but will go well enough with aiders. it's on my rack permanently now! i would highly recommend adding this to yours

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 19, 2014

great climbing pack!
5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Devin with his Bullet filled with extra gear, water, food and shoes. Carrying this pack up Half Dome with us was super nice. It's lightweight and small but can carry a lot! The outside pocket alone carried a headlamp, puffy, topo, knife, TP, and other small things. Being hydration pouch compatible was also a huge plus, it cuts big time off a wall when you don't have to unzip and pull things out to get to water. The belt wasn't the most comfortable when super loaded, but it did a great job overall and I'm stoked we had it for the climb! (picture) Devin leading pitch 7 on the NW Face of Half Dome.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 19, 2014

my favorite aider
5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I've just recently gotten onto big wall climbing. practicing my aid on single pitch routes then doing 3 big walls in 3 weeks was an awesome experience! I used the Etriers at first but when a friend let me try his out, I was hooked on the 8 step Ladders. They make the process of big wall climbing way faster in my opinion. They are much easier to blast up and make that top step, have a full strength and big grab loop, are comfortable to stand on all day, and are same weight as Etriers. The Biothane steps are very nice BUT I did have to make a homemade spreader bar on top step to keep rest of the ladder wide open. Over-all I felt very comfortable on these ladders and made Half Dome a very sweet experience! (picture) me and Devin on top of pitch 18.

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Reed

Reed wrote a review of on August 19, 2014

my carabiner of choice
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

the hot-forged BD Hoodwire Carabiner is my favorite bener on the market. it's snag free design makes clipping and cleaning a breeze. it's lightweight yet is very strong, has a smooth wire gate that won't freeze in Alpine conditions, and has a great all around feel of quality. I have the color-coded Hoodwires for my Cams and use these Orange Hoodwires on all my slings, making them extra visible from afar. Though more pricey then the Neutrino, the craftsmanship of these Beners make them well worth that extra $1, plus backcountry.com usually has them on sale or will price match any other site's sale. I really dig these Beners and hope you will too! (picture) Gabe on Supercrack at Indian Creek, UT

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