Beartooths, Tetons, Wasatch
Nope, not pre-drilled. Gonna have to have a shop do it, or drill yourself. If they were drilled you wouldn't be able to match boot center
Mantra's are gonna be heavy to tour with, but if your ok with that...
The pre-release... Well I ski with a guy who weighs 200-220, and he has never had a problem, AS LONG AS he steps in with the toe, then picks the ski up to gently "wag" it back and forth, making sure the toe is set correctly. Also if you have issues with the toe pieces not making a full connection, remove ice from below the toe piece.
I ski ZZeus full time and love them, in and out of bounds, this year I am moving to the UL Titan. Sell the Fritchi's on ebay and never look back brother. Never get out of the BOAT!
The Radical and Vertical have different toe hole patterns, not sure about the speed.
Yes the speed would be enough, but for longevity of use, since you are putting them on the Kilowatts, a few grams isn't worth it, go with the Radical or Vertical, skip the speed.
Call into backcountry.com and ask for the Guru Wally. He is slightly smaller than you, but comes from a semi-pro racing background. I've toured and skied with him, and he rolls like a g-d-freight train on these things.
You won't get play on ice, I can tell you that, metal on metal connection means no play, but crap, tons of chatter and feedback from it. I am 170 lbs, 5'11" but have had guys 215 lbs, 6" tell me the same thing. The play and chatter from your freerides was because they are a plastic on plastic connection, which dynafits are not.
I haven't used that set up Line Prophet), but have seen guys bigger than you reef this bindings around hard, big drops, on fat heavy skis. They don't rip out, and I would bet if they do, your issue is with the lock of setting the epoxy right at the shop who drilled them, not the ski/binding.
Since you are coming off a much fatter, higher turn radius ski, I'd say stick with the longer ski. Even at the similar length, the Kendo will be shaving over a full 2 meters off your turn radius. So keep the longer length, you'll still be able to edge on hard pack, and swing them in the trees, while having a little more float when you finally get some decent powder!
I find for inbounds they work, but on ice and frozen crud, they do make you feel it, a lot. The metal on metal binding has no damping effect, like you would get with a plastic on plastic, like a Fritchi or Marker Duke.
Stick with the Dynafits if they are only for touring for sure. Either binding would work, I like the tried and true Vertical, and have ridden them on skis in the 105 waist (Stoke) with no complaints. But you can;t go wrong, just stick with the 'fits. Tech all dayyyy.
German engineering at it's finest people. Let me tell you a story, the story of how I skied over 300 days on a pair of skis, compressed one edge put at least 30 core shorts in both skis, blew off 2 edges in the worst season the Wasatch has seen in some time, skied ALL of the camber right off these, and still consider them my go-to skis!
300 days, yup that's about right, call it 280 just to be sure. Ice, powder, crud, bumps, crust, grapple. These are my go-to skis. 95% of the time these work 100%! The other 5%, well days of 18+inches these skis, mounted with dukes are just too weighty and not wide enough so they nose down. O thats right, did I mention I've toured in these things as well. Yeah, they are heavy, but kinda like Frankenstein running a marathon, it can be done...
The heavy, damp ski stil rides like a champ, even with out much of it's camber. The compressed edge would have been a blown edge in most other skis (i've done it one Fischers, not much fun). And the blown edges your ask, would have leveled me and the ski on anything else, as it was on these Panzer tanks, I skied the run out. The Core shorts are all over the skis and lots of them pull right too the edge and are BIG. I'm talking 1/4 inch gashes that ride deep and out the edge of the ski going down thru the metal thru all the p-tex and plastic graffix but leaving the edges fine..Jumpin' Joseph Smith, now that's s sidewall!
I've skied these things on ice groomers, they bite great into them, that's what you get with a heavy ski with wood and metal through out.
I've hammered these bad boys, rode them over more rocks than I can count (early season at J-hole, the 2011-2012 season in the Wasatch, and any season at Big Sky, MT). I'm 172lbs, 5'11" and I ride on the 184's. Marker Duke bindings and Agent AT/Dynafit Zzues boots.
The xadapt9 makes it easier but you can throw it on the aero bars with the stock mounts.
Ironic statement, considering you bought a 650 buck coat with far less features and rave about it:
So which is it, high priced and worth the money, over priced and stupid
Kendo might be better suited for your riding now, trees and some powder!
The mantra would be a better bet for out west, they can rip the groomers and crud up, and hang till about 18" of powder, then they start to tip dive. That number would depend on your weight and the length. I'm 165 lbs and ride 184 Mantra. I have ridden these on hard pack, but not deep powder, I suspect they would tip dive on me at closer to 12".
I'd like to add to this here, Sandy and Arthur are spot on on this, but here is another tip...
When I step the toe piece in I pick the whole ski up and "wag" it back and forth a few times (just like twice) then I step down into the heel piece. This helps to ensure that both toe grommets (holes) are set correctly and that one it's just a hair or two off. Does that make sense?
This is the shoulder "pilling" where the inside Velcro patch rubs on the outside shoulder.
Man, I am saddened to write this review...
First off let me say I look of this coat, the look is sick, the function has been awesome, overall I was blown away by this coat...
For about 2 months.
Then I noticed the shoulder "pilling" where the inside Velcro patch rubs on the outside shoulder. An issue that could be solved by placing the Velcro patch on the opposite (ie left side) of the jacket. As it stands now the Velcro has created wear on what is essentially a almost brand new 650 dollar coat.
It is not a small issue, it is not just noticeable, but destructive of the face-fabric. For this price point, on Gore-Pro, after 2 months of use, this is completely unacceptable.
To top off the issue, I have been informed this is "normal" wear and tear, and not covered under warranty.... REALLY? On a 650 Gore-Pro shell? I've put an Arcteryx coat through 150 days of torture and it looks brand new
I'd say "save your money" but who wants to do that, if you need to pop on a six-hundred dollar coat go for it...
Just make sure it starts with an "Arc" and ends with an "treyx"
Well at least if you buy it here you can just stick bc.com with the return on this when it fails you and Mammut's no help at all....
(Read COMMENTS below, I am updating this review to reflect that)
JJ's would work for you for sure, if you want something more powder specific and still all around, if you want something more all around, less powder, maybe a Volkl Mantra?
JJ's are made in Austria
Sir Francis Bacons are made in CHINA
Anngela, please consider taking some classes as well! I agree Sandy, Beacon, probe, shovel and a pack are essential, ava airbag is an excellent edition as well. Education is a key, know how to use your gear and where and when to go!
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