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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter

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George's Passions

Snowboarding
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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote a review of on September 15, 2013

Popular- and for a good reason!
5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

These draws are perfect; not to heavy for me, solid gate on top, wire gate on bottom. -That makes it easier for the bolts and the rope.

I've seen these at almost every crag I've climbed at. They are indeed popular, and for this good of a draw at this price I'm not surprised!

By the way, I've seen other reviews of these in which the reviewer seems to complain about the entire quickdraw because the dogbone got worn out. The dogbone doesn't last as long as the carabiners anyway, so when it gets in that condition all you have to do is replace that part.


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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote a review of on June 30, 2013

3 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

This harness is by far the most comfortable one I have ever hung in. (For comparison, I have also used the Black Diamond Momentum, Wild Country Ziplock Elite (worst to hang in), Mammut Ophir, Mammut Togir Light, Edelrid Creed.)

The problem was that it is not very comfortable to belay in if you are a guy, like me -This seems to be because the leg loops remain wide all the way through underneath the area between the legs. If they went narrow a little further around the back then there wouldn't be as much material to get pulled up in that area..which was annoying when belaying. It does become kind of tolerable after a while though.
I know that this isn't just me because another reviewer on REI's site states that he had a similar problem. A friend of mine also has this harness and agreed when I asked about this.

I would only use this harness for sport climbing and toproping which is what it was designed for.

Peanuts and the climber can both be saved... the comfort of one should not have to be sacrificed for another.

Hey I bet this harness would be fine for ladies!

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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote a review of on June 28, 2013

2 5

Familiarity: I returned this product before using it

I was surprised to find that the thin padding on this harness is really stiff. When I tried it on, the waist belt was digging into my sides and didn't conform to the shape of my waist very well because of the lack of flexibility. This was irritating. I only tried it on before sending it straight back (thanks Backcountry for a great return service!)
The momentum and most other BD harnesses are much more comfortable than this. I was intending to use this for rock climbing and thought it would be fine because it's supposed to be an all-purpose harness, but there was just no way it would work for me.
It might be more comfortable when wearing winter outerwear, which provides a thicker layer between the climber and the harness. For that, I'd just call this an ice climbing harness; not specifically an "all season" harness (although it could be used as a rock harness if the comfort doesn't bother you when just wearing a T-shirt.) I didn't climb or tie into this harness, but I assume it would perform just like other BD harnesses because all the features are in the same positions.

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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote an answer about on June 25, 2013

UPDATE: A friend let me try this harness on recently in size Large and, unlike the Ophir, this fits me just about right :belay loop centered and gear loops symmetrical). Like I said, a Medium BD Momentum fits me perfectly, so you'd probably need this in XL if they are available in that size.

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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote a review of on June 12, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I've been seeing a lot of people comparing this to the Petzl GriGri, but this isn't really fair because this device is not designed to be fully-locking; it actually just holds the majority of the climbers weight.

But I'll compare anyway since I've used both. For sport climbing this works BETTER than a GriGri in my opinion, because it feeds rope a lot easier and locks almost just as well. To feed rope there is no need to unlock the device because there are no moving parts like with the GriGri; you just push it forward with your thumb and pull out rope with the guide hand. (this actually makes it easier to feed rope than with and ATC)
The locking is very effective. My rope is a 10.2mm and I've also used this with 9.8 and 10.5mm ropes, and for these it holds about 90-95% of the climbers weight.
The amount of rope slippage obviously depends on the weight of the climber and the thickness of the rope, but since I never use thin ropes or belay fast-food eaters it always locks up fine.

Lowering for the first time with this thing was a little jerky though. The trick is the push it away horizontally instead of pulling it up vertically, and then there's the "sweet spot" that lowers the climber smoothly. Takes a little getting used to (3 times for me) and then there's no problem with this.

Overall, this device is awesome. The only thing I think a GriGri would be better for is toproping, although the Smart still works great for that. For lowering, both took me about the same amount of time to learn to control properly, so I wouldn't consider this to be an issue.
This also comes in a 2-rope version which can be used for other things including rappelling. (There are 2 of these for different rope diameters).
Here's a URL for Mammut's video that shows how to use the Smart:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=A684wbremic

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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote an answer about on June 8, 2013

Mammut's Ophir line of harnesses fitted a little big, but the previous version of this harness in size L fitted me fine. A size Medium Black Diamond harness fits me perfectly, This one here is only available up to size L though, considering that you are a L in a BD harness you would probably need an XL in this one. You could try the L and if it doesn't fit you can always return it; Backcountry has an awesome return policy!

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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote an answer about on May 22, 2013

This might be a little late now, but for future reference some brands sell rope markers that are made to mark the midpoint of the rope. Beal makes one of them, but Beal's website has a list of rope brands that it is only to be used on, and Sterling isn't on that list.

So, this could be a more affordable option- if you buy a rope marker just make sure it's 100% safe for your rope first.

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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote a review of on May 20, 2013

Perfect, except for 2 minor issues...
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is an awesome anchor carabiner. It's not too heavy, very strong, and the screw lock is smooth and easy to open and close. This carabiner gives me all these security and usage benefits at an insanely affordable price.

There are 2 small errors in the information on this page, though:
1.) The Major Axis Strength when the gate is closed actually says 25 kN on mine, not 23 kN like it says here. (This is good, just not accurate.)

2.) The lettering is not printed on like it is shown in the image. On the real thing it's extruded. I personally don't like this because although small, the edges on the lettering are kind of sharp and I can sometimes hear and see the thread of my cord or sling snagging and kind of ripping on them. Over time, this could lead to premature wear of whatever is being clipped into it. I'm not going to return mine over this through; I've just wrapped a layer of electrical tape around it at the top of the biner and now it's stopped catching on thread :)

Next time I'll just spend the extra few dolleys on the Black Diamond version.

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Peanut Butter

Peanut Butter wrote a review of on August 10, 2012

Nice Shoes
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've been climbing for about 6 years now, mostly indoors and outdoors on some weekends. These are great for most climbs and I've only been unable to climb with these when using the smallest of footholds (when they slip off them), because the edges are fairly rounded. I don't usually have to worry about this though when climbing most routes.

I am aware that these are all-around, low-cost climbing shoes not made for about sizing for you guys- If these are your FIRST PAIR of climbing shoes you'll need something that fits snug so your toes just curve over a little. At a beginner level I wouldn't necessarily listen to what other guys are saying about going down a full size anything specific, and are therefore a common choice for beginners (I've seen several asking about what size to get here.) I'd like to clear a few things up or more. Climbing shoes are already made to be small for you're normal shoe size. If you've been climbing a while and are used to climbing shoes, it feels a lot easier to go down that much in size.

Try your regular shoe size first, which will give a tight but snug fit. Mine took about a month of climbing (2-3 times per week) to stretch just a little bit. They don't feel like they've stretched any more since, and when they do the fit seems more comfortable.

Overall these are awesome shoes for all-around climbing.

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