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PartnerinClimb

PartnerinClimb

Livin' in Boston. Climbing at Rumney, Lincoln Woods, Quicy and calling MetroRock Gym my home away from home.

PartnerinClimb's Passions

Biking
Yoga
Skiing
Climbing
Surfing

PartnerinClimb

PartnerinClimbwrote a question about on January 13, 2014

??? Need some Sizing Advice.
I'm 5'10" and 175lbs. I live in the northeast and ski a pair of 170 Volkl Kendos primarily. I'm a solid skier and can shred in the dbl diamonds around here and at Jackson Hole, as well. I want to pick up a powder ski and the shiro is has got my attention but as I've never owned a fully rockered powder ski I need some counsel on sizing. The shiros would be used between Jackson and Alta for the most part. I'm thinking of making them my AT ski, as well, so if you've got any ideas on that I love to hear 'em. I appreciate the help.

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on January 13, 2013

5 5

Just put these gloves through the paces at Jackson Hole. Several days of my trip were spent during a cold snap with sub-zero temp down to the -20's. These gloves were amazing, generally keeping my hands nice and warm the entire trip. I did get cold fingers a couple of times, but I have a history having freezing digits and these gloves are the warmest I have ever owned. Fair warning, I haven't been in any conditions in which the gloves have gotten very wet on the outside, so I cannot comment on waterproofness. But I'm pretty confident that these gloves are solid on every front. On sizing: the fingers are a tad longer than other Hestra gloves. Whereas the 9's are generally perfect on my hand, I wear an 8 in this model.

Update: Wore them in what was the equivalent of a winter monsoon at Jay peak. 98% of the mountain was sporting plastic bags; it was crazy! Skied the entire day and at the bar for apres, my buds and I compared the insides of our gloves. My Hestras were the only ones that had remained completely impermeable. Again, these gloves are the bomb!
On a different note: concerning construcion, I have had no problems with the seams or the leather, etc. Take care of these gloves and they will take care of you.

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PartnerinClimb

PartnerinClimbwrote a question about on January 9, 2013

I'd like to get an opinion on how to size this ski. I'm 5"10, 175lbs. I'm just starting to ski the northeast and this ski would be for that purpose. Out west I can handle the diamonds and dbl diamonds at Jackson Hole. I love the trees and the bumps, but I don't get into too much back country stuff. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on December 22, 2009

Super Warm and Durable
5 5

In all honesty, I had a really hard time rationalizing this purchase because of the price. With a year gone by, I look back and feel like it was worth every cent and more. I use this jacket constantly, prob more than I should as it does make one look like a linebacker. It's incredibly warm, even with just a t-shirt underneath, and packs down quite well. The extra material in the arms and bottom of the back means there'll be no freezing wind creeping in when belaying. As for durability, mine still looks like new after a year of regular use. I even kept it on for a climb that included an off-width full of shoulder and arm jams because the weather turned foul. Even after that, not even a scratch!

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on December 21, 2009

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Climbing shoes are (more than anything) all about personal fit. That said, I own 5 pairs of shoes and this is far and away my fav. I've been reading other reviews about pain and agony, but the break-in pain borne for these babies was minimal compared to my Scarpa Booster/Stix. And those shoes, incredible climbing tools they may be, have remained painful to wear while my rossa's feel super comfy now and fit like a glove. I bought them on the recommendations of two friends from different climbing circles who had the same experience. They have become my all around shoe. They are almost as precise and powerful as my Booster's, but I climb hard 5.12 and still feel like it's a rare occasion when that extra bit is really necessary. The comfort level I get in these shoes allows me to climb multi-pitch sport/trad, tech slab, and even crack (I'm not the only one, see Alex Honnold's vids in Indian Creek) all the while getting agro quality performance and precision. For sizing comparison: I wear 41.5 in Testarossa's, 10.5, in street shoes, 10 in Anasazi Velcro's, 42.5/43 in Scarpa Vision/Booster/Stix. Size 'em right, and these shoes will make happen the impossible: Big smiles at the sight of Lace-ups.

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on December 19, 2009

My go-to belay device
5 5

Whether belaying the leader or the second, this thing is bomber. It's also very easy to use when lowering your climber. It may be useful to note that it's a bit thinner than the BD ATC, so for the beater rope I take to the gym, or thicker top ropes, i leave my reverso at home. Conversely, I feel really confident using it on the skinnies.

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on September 22, 2008

5 5

An awesome shoe with great performance characteristics. It edges, toes-in, smears, and heel hooks fantastically well . The last is slightly downturned, but not at all uncomfortable. One gets a great feel for the rock with these shoes and despite their sensitivity, I would still recommend them to beginners. As for sizing, it was a bit tricky for me. I wear a 10.5 in street shoes and have had two other scarpa models that I got in 42.5. These shoes run a bit bigger though, and through a little trial and error (and the exemplary support of Backcountry's customer service team) I ended up finding a 42 to be a perfect fit. If you tend do size down in the extreme, pain won't be a huge problem with the Vision V, but the heel felt short and awkward to me when traveling that road. Very sincerely, it's pretty hard for me to imagine someone being unsatisfied with this shoe.

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on September 22, 2008

5 5

This shoe offers incredible control and precision on all manner of vertical and steep climbing. They have also smeared very well when called upon to do so, though I definitely won't be breaking them out for any slab climbs. These shoes are ridiculously sticky even during the break in phase, which, thankfully, doesn't take too long. On sizing: I have a slightly wider foot than normal, and while I wear a 10.5 in street shoes, the 42.5 in these make for a very nice fit (for further comparison, I wear 42 in the scarpa Vision V and 10 in evolv defy's and while the Scarpa heels fit me well, La Sportiva heel cups have always been either too high or just just too big and pouch-like for my foot). These are a great purchase (worth every penny) and if you're going aggro, these are the shoes to get.

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on September 18, 2008

3 5

My girlfriend bought me these shoes so that I would have something comfortable to wear on those days spent with her doing easy/moderate climbing. While they are, in fact, quite comfy, I find their performance characteristics to be really lackluster. I can't edge at all in these shoes and they give me no feel for the rock. I've often thought that the problem had to be my own and that the shoe couldn't be that bad, but as soon as I throw on my Vision V or Booster's (both scarpa) the world's seems a different place. These shoes are only suitable for people who desire comfort mainly, and will not be climbing into the 5.10's any time soon. Otherwise, there are plenty of more sensible options (e.g. Scarpa Vision V or any good technical trad shoe).

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on September 16, 2008

Awesome!!!
5 5

This beanie is great. I wear a large in fitted ball caps, and this beanie is large enough to keep my head warm from my eyebrows to the base of my neck. It would fit perfectly if it were just a tad smaller, but as is, it still looks quite good. The base of the beanie is lined and does well in making sure your ears are nice and toasty. The color I ordered was fuchsia and the actual color is very close, maybe just a smidge brighter. A great purchase.

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PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on August 31, 2008

5 5

I've had this harness for a little more than 3 months now, and after a summer of hard climbing it still looks like new. Beyond its good looks, it's proved to be comfortable even after hanging and belaying all day long. It weighs next to nothing and because of the slimness of the weave, it takes up almost no space at all in my pack. The only negative for me is the snugness of the leg loops. I have 24.5 inch thighs (M waist), and though fine in summer gear, I wonder how comfy it'll be over my fall clothing. Other than that, it rocks!!!

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PartnerinClimb

PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on August 31, 2008

Great shoe, but keep in mind...
4 5

Three months ago, a day after my first climb, I bought a pair of Defy shoes with the intention of dedicating the summer to learning how to climb. In pursuit of this goal, my Defy's spent at least 2 hrs, 4x/week, on my feet either in the gym or at the crag being critical to my progress through 5.10d lead and V3. I would recommend these shoes to others with the instruction to keep a few things in mind before they buy.
1) They do stretch. I wear 10.5/11 in street shoes and got them in 10.5. After suffering for a month, they finally broke in and became quite comfortable. In the middle of month 2, however, they had stretched too much, and as I was getting better and needing to dial it down, the velcro straps wouldn't go far enough to allow it. My next Evolv's will def be a size or more down. The break-in time will suck, but I'll end up with shoes that fit so well, I'll be very happy to pay for resoling.
2) The rubber runs out pretty quickly. I've heard others talk smack about Trax rubber, but I've found it quite sticky and trustworthy on sketchy clips. The problem is that I have two gaping wholes in the toes, and the rubber on the heel is separating from the shoe. This may be due to beginner's footwork, but other reviewers have mentioned the same problem.
3) Lastly, I know it's weird, but they really do reek! I was happily surprised to read this comment in other reviews (glad to know it's not just me). So, make sure you get odor eaters, or something.

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PartnerinClimb

PartnerinClimbwrote a review of on August 30, 2008

5 5

The trade off is simple: Convenience for weight. First, they aren't cheap. That said, neither are the full sized feather light options. What it boils down to for me is the fact that I hate hanging on to the rock (sometimes desperately), and futzing around with a biner caught either on a bolt or my rope. The Spirit's eliminate that annoyance forever. Plus, the new colors look really cool!

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