Neil Roessler

Neil Roessler

Santa Barbara, CA

    New Feature

    Browse Your Followers or See Who You're Following

  • #6864of 20369

Neil's Passions

Snowboarding
Mountain Biking
Alpine Skiing
Sport Climbing
Bouldering

Neil's Bio

I am a climbing instructor with the Santa Barbara Rock Gym, avid surfer, father of a great son, loving husband and the Logistics Coordinator with Horny Toad Activewear. You can check out my blog at:
http://breakinginmyshoes.wordpress.com

Neil Roessler

Neil Roessler wrote a review of on August 2, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

I have been climbing in this shoe for months. I am an instructor at a climbing gym and put at least 5 hours of climbing on this shoe per week. The vibram rubber is excellent, in the past 5 months I have had this shoe, I am still climbing in the original rubber.

In addition,this shoe compares well to the Evolv Shaman or La Sportiva Muira. It is very aggressive and solid on overhanging routes, dime edges and bouldering.

My main complaint is the heel cup. It is a bit loose for the type of shoe so I do not have 100% confidence when heel hooking.

Still, out of all the shoes I have worn throughout the year, these are hands down my favorite.

Sizing: I wear a 9.5 street shoe and wear a size 40 in the instinct (7.5). The leather upper stretches enough to make it work; however, I could probably get away with an 8. That have a bit of a break in period so just be prepared that they are not going to feel good for a few sessions.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Neil Roessler

Neil Roessler wrote a review of on December 11, 2012

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Teachnoogy has changed so much over the past few years in rope diameters, and the ability to take multiple falls on these smaller ropes, some might wonder why even buy a 10.5 mm rope in the first place. While I a in the market for a new rope and will not be buying anything over 10 mm, I have climbed consistently on this rope for the past 5 years and it has never given me a bad day!

For a 10.5 mm rope, this has an excellent hand,the Dry Cover makes it very durable and at 10.5, this rope can take some KN's.

Although my next rope will probably be a Sterling of a smaller diameter, I would not have any hesitation of purchasing another Beal in the future.

(1)

 

0 Comments

Neil Roessler

Neil Roessler wrote a review of on December 10, 2012

2 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been climbing for 5 years and am a solid 5.11/5.12 climber. I have worn these shoes during trip to bishop, the local crags and the gym. I have also been through many pairs of shoes and shoe company's. The defy is hands down my least favorite climbing shoes I have ever worn. The smell is wretched, the edging power is non existent, the heel slips on heel hooks and you can find a better shoe for smearing and comfort.

The one positive that this shoe has going for it is that is is extremely comfortable. However, the smell far outweights the comfort.

I will say that both my dad and brother climb in this shoe and they love it. However, they are not putting a lot of miles on the shoe, and they are climbing 5.8 to 5.10-. This is a starter shoe, but I would reccomend something else to a starter.

From Evolve: Pontas II (great shoe, the best shoe I would recommend to a beginner who has the talent to progress through the sport fast - very comfortable and extremely versatile)

From 5.10: Anasazi VCS (not a total entry level shoe, but very comfortable and a good entry into the aggressive shoe market)

From La Sportiva: The Terantula (very similar performance to the defy, but the edging is better and the rubber is stickier)

All in all, the defy serves its purpose in the climbing shoe world, however, it is one shoe I would prefer not to have had in my quiver.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Neil Roessler

Neil Roessler wrote a review of on December 10, 2012

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is an excellent shoe! I would not call it the best aggressive climbing shoe out there, nor would I say Evolve Trax is the best rubber on the Market; however, this is an excellently designed shoe that is my workhorse in the gym.

The rubber is thick, I have been wearing it 3+ days per week in the gym for the past 2 months and have not had any signs of needing to resole and I can trust these shoes on dime edges and the heel is solid for overhanging routes.

There is one caveat to this shoe, the sizing is not comparable to any other shoe you would buy. I have a 9.5 street shoe and size down 1-2 full sizes on all my climbing shoes; however, with this shoe, I purchased a 9.5 and I wish I had gone with a 10. The shoes will soften a bit, hence the reason I am still using them, but they do not stretch at all and instead of these forming to my foot, I feel like my foot has formed to the shoes.I also have mortons toe and this would not have been an issue with the 10's, but it took a few weeks before my feet got to the point they could tolerate the shoe.

Would I buy this shoe again, definitely! However, I would go with the 10.

STRENGHTS:
EDGING
HEEL HOOKING
VELCRO STRAPS

CONS:
FIT
SMEARING

(0)

 

0 Comments