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Mul3009104

Mul3009104

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Chris's Passions

Climbing

Chris's Bio

Mul3009104

Mul3009104 wrote an answer about on April 21, 2012

Attaching crampons less-than-securely seems to be relatively commonplace. Spend some time indoors with the boots you intend to use them on and make sure you get a positive fit with the sole squarely within the metal brackets at the heel.
Fitting it this closely may mean that you can't actually step into the crampon without using the heel lever to shove the boot forward that last little bit, but the security is worth the effort.

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Mul3009104

Mul3009104 wrote a review of on December 17, 2011

4 5

Definitely a nice item, but the sizing is just wrong. I'm 5'10 and skinny (145#), so I got a small, and it fits me like a garbage bag in the waist. Strangely enough, the problem seems to be height more so than girth: this would fit somebody like 6'1 and 155-160# snugly, or 5'10 and 175#, perhaps. I would not consider that to be a "small" person, and there's no smaller size.

One-piece suits are a size problem waiting to happen, but it sucks that there's nothing out there made to fit the less heavy among us.

A shame, as the material and design is otherwise perfect. Arm length is good, etc. The material is great, as with all Stoic merino stuff, and I like the long zipper and thumb loops.

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Mul3009104

Mul3009104 wrote a review of on March 31, 2011

2 5

I have an older version of this jacket (maybe '08?) that is top-notch. Very lightweight fabric, very packable, impressive build quality despite the intentionally minimalist construction.

This newer version? Ordered from BC.com and couldn't wait to get it. I was immediately disappointed in the seemingly much cheaper, less packable construction compared to the older jacket. Seconds later, the FIRST TIME I TRIED IT ON, the waist cinch bungee ripped out on one end, complete with the cloth patch it was anchored to. To be clear, this has NEVER, EVER been a problem with my older compressor jacket, and I was not overly rough with the newer one.

Thinking that this was an isolated incident, and needing a belay parka, I bought a ($$$$$) Mtn Hardwear Alcove jacket. The exact same thing happened to the waist cinch in the first day of ownership.

Mountain Hardwear quality seems to taken a nosedive in the last few years, though prices remain as high as ever.

P.S. BC.com did take the returned item no problem, so as always they get 5 stars!

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Mul3009104

Mul3009104 wrote a review of on February 8, 2011

4 5

These pants are a great 3-season lightweight softshell. Cool enough for summer, repels water well and dries quickly.

Two complaints: The fabric pills up quickly when worn with a climbing harness, although I suspect this would happen in other use almost as quickly. The fit is also not quite right. I'm a 30" waist, 32" inseam, and the small pant comes up short. The medium has the right length, but leaves way too much material in the waist. The sizing chart claims 32" inseam for small and 32.4" for medium -- I would say this is not accurate, as I found there to be more than 0.4" difference (looks like 31" vs 32.4").

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Mul3009104

Mul3009104 wrote a review of on January 11, 2011

2 5

From a green angle, this pack might sound appealing, but it offers battery life well short of conventional alkaline batteries. You have to dig into Petzl's technical literature and read closely. In a Petzl Tikka 2 headlamp, alkaline AAAs will give 40 peak Lumens for 90 hours, versus 35 peak Lumens for only 14 hours with this Li-Poly pack. This $40 pack may be equivalent to 900 batteries, but it doesn't come close to the performance of alkaline batteries on a single charge. Alkaline AAAs cost about $0.33 each -- about $1 for a full charge in that headlamp. Another 90h of spare battery power costs an extra buck to carry with you.

90h vs 14h
$1 vs $40

That doesn't seem particularly impressive to me.


Petzl performance table:

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/en/Products/comparaison/headlamps-performance-table.pdf

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