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Mato

Mato

Adirondacks, Catskills, Gunks

Matthew's Passions

Trad Climbing
Camping
Mountain Biking
Hiking
Ice Climbing
Mountaineering
Sport Climbing

Matthew's Bio

I like bikes! I like climbing and hiking and stuff too. I'm really a giant gear junky. When I'm not working or playing I'm usually trying to figure out what piece of gear to buy next.

Mato

Mato wrote an answer about on January 25, 2014

short answer: NO

The spantik is in a whole other class of warmth compared to the batura . The other major advantage to the spantik on an expedition is that it is a double boot. This will allow you to remove the liners and dry them out each night, keeping your feet warmer each day.

The other possibilty for you is the Scarpa Phantom 6000. It is a double boot and is quite warm (although not quite as warm as a spantik). The 6000 is also nearly as light as the batura. I have the 6000s with a custom liner in them and they are super warm, comfortable, and climb incredibly well.

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Mato

Mato wrote an answer about on October 9, 2011

These little jackets are pretty nice to layer with your DAS if its really cold or as a stand alone jacket on warmer or sunnier days where the DAS is too much. If its in the 30s or warmer this may be all you would need to belay as long as its not too shady or windy. I have a similar jacket and find myself using it all the time.

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Mato

Mato wrote an answer about on October 9, 2011

The spray on stuff works a little better than the wash in typically because you will get a higher concentration of stuff.

as to how well it will work on your jacket I don't know... if you jacket is Gore-tex or the like it should work fine. If it is just nylon you may want to try another water proofing spray. I have not had great luck with this on straight nylon.

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Mato

Mato wrote an answer about on October 4, 2011

These are all very aggressive tools for ski touring...But, I like the BD and Petzl because they have replaceable picks. The petzl has a cool little sliding rest that you can move on the shaft to use it on technical terrain easier, and a slightly less aggressive pick than the BD, that would be my choice.

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Mato

Mato wrote a review of on October 4, 2011

4 5

I've been using this rope for about 2 seasons on rock and one in the winter. It has held up pretty well. I like the size for all around climbing, it is skinny enough that its not too heavy, feeds through belay devices well, and doesn't feel like a ball and chain holding you down on lead.

The dry treatment was pretty well shot by the end of the first full season. The ropes durability is OK but not great, I have not been impressed with the durability of petzl ropes in general. I will end up retiring this rope with about 100 days of leading on it and a couple of falls.

I think there are better ropes for the money.

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Mato

Mato wrote a review of on October 4, 2011

4 5

I have used these so far for approaches in the adirondacks, joshua tree, the tetons, and LCC in Utah.

They climb quite well, I climbed all of lower and upper Exum on the grand in these and felt quite confident in them. The fit can really be pulled in tight to feel more like a climbing shoe or kept loose enough to be fairly comfy to climb in. The rubber is quite sticky, and thus wears somewhat quickly. The platform is stiff enough to give support but still give some feel.

Like most people have said they are good for up to about 5 miles with a decent sized pack on. Much more than that they start to make your feet really hurt. Without a pack you could go further. The other issue I have is the toe box is VERY narrow, like a climbing shoe. I have very narrow feet and these still rub the skin off my little toe. I tape my toe if I know I'm going to be in the for a while. These shoes run very warm. I find myself taking them off every few hours just to let my feet cool off a bit.

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