Matt M

Matt M

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Matt M

Matt M wrote an answer about on November 13, 2010

So I haven't USED one in person but I had something like this BITD. You Girth Hitch the largest loop to your harness ala a P.A.S. or Chain Reactor. So this is just a guess.

For Belay, the smaller loop on the other end is clipped into your anchor "power point" or what have you. You then use the middle, smallest loop to belay off of using a guide style/ auto BLOCK belay device (ATC Guide, Reverso 3 etc etc) or GriGri.

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Matt M

Matt M wrote a question about on November 11, 2010

Can anyone compare this (or other jackets) to the Patagonia Guide Jacket? I've tried that (the Paty Guide) on in a store an it's pretty darn close to what I'm looking for. I have a metric TON of Jackets but was lacking a lightweight softshell with a LIGHT lining. I have a Schoeller UNLINED softshell (it's just the one shell fabric with no backing or lining) and find it's a bit tool cool for sitting around when the sun sets. I'm looking for the step up from this where there's a bit of warmth added. The Paty Guide seemed perfect. Another way to describe it would be if you put a stretch soft shell onto a Driclime wind jacket lining. Thanks for any info!

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Matt M

Matt M wrote a review of on November 13, 2009

5 5

This is hands down the best biner made today. Lightweight, full size (yeah there are biners that are lighter but they border on "toy size" - fine for moderate alpine use but not good for difficult clips) and STRONG. This is one of only a few biner with a full 10kN open gate strength ( really the only important strength rating to look at") DMM's Spectre (another awesome biner) has this as well. The wire gate will feel a bit stiff to people coming from something like a Hotwire but is BETTER IMO after you adjust to it. The keylock nose is great as well - best of both worlds. Note that the nose is a bit wider than say a Hotwire so getting it through narrow chain at some anchors may be hard. I still carry an old school BD "d" or two to cover that though. If cost is a concern (they are pricey) I suggest heliums for the "bolt" ends and WCs new Nitro for other things. Essentially a Helium without the notch-less nose. (You do loose 1kN in the open gate strength - Hotwire is also 9kN)

Great gear!

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