Mark Allen

Mark Allen

North Cascades WA and San Juans CO

    New Feature

    Browse Your Followers or See Who You're Following

  • #4297of 20369

Mark Allen's Passions

Alpine Touring
Trad Climbing
Ice Climbing
Mountaineering
Alpine Skiing
Sport Climbing
Bouldering

Mark Allen's Bio

Mark is the Director of Expeditions Northwest LLC and an Alpine Ambassador Athlete for Outdoor Research. Mark is a Washington native and cut his teeth in the North Cascades 1991 and began guiding in the Northwest in 2001. Now he is a Full IFMGA Mountain Guide living in Mazama WA; AMGA Rock, Ski, Alpine Certified and a AIARE Level II Avalanche instructor. When not personal climbing across the US Mark divides his time guiding extensive Alpine, Ice, Rock and Ski trips in the North Cascades, Colorado’s San Juans, and European Alps. Mark’s shoulder seasons are typically spent by annual spring migrations to Alaska to alpine and ski guide in the Alaska and Chugach ranges, rock guide in Red Rock NV and Joshua Tree CA, or high altitude mountaineering in Nepal. Mark’s personal interests are alpinism and ski mountaineering descents in areas that still need exploring. His academic background is in geology with an emphasis on mountain building processes. On his days off he explores the undiscovered corners of his back yard — the North Cascades and San Juan Mountains.

Mark Allen

Mark Allen wrote a review of on October 10, 2012

Crux Pitch Sending Glove
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

OR made huge changes to this glove over the years based on athlete performance and feedback to bring you a polished product. I use this glove as a the go-to crux pitch glove in quiver with the Warrant and Alpine Alibi

This glove is perfect for working hard mixed and steep ice lines at the ice crag and climbing alpine rock on cold days.

We also found this glove great on the big alpine routes, tucked away dry for the crux pitches. We used this on the first ascent of Voyager Peak in the Alaska Range and it was great for the M6 cruxes that would have been more difficult with a less streamline glove.

Now this is Dad's sports car, so treat it like one. If you do a bunch of rapping on this glove it will not last as long.

Check it out. And this glove is just getting better.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Mark Allen

Mark Allen posted a video about on October 10, 2012

On May 23rd at 8:30pm we left our tent and skis at 7500ft on the NW fork of the Lacuna for the summit of unclimbed peak 12,213. The climbing on the lower buttress was several pitches of excellent steep mixed climbing with M6 cruxes on good rock and but faceted snow. The ridge narrowed to a technical gendarme laden and rather narrow ridge with unstable and precariously balanced snow mushrooms . The exposure, position and good rock provided some epic climbing.

(0)

 

0 Comments

0 Comments

Mark Allen

Mark Allen wrote a review of on October 9, 2012

High Alpine go-to armor
4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This pant was a chosen piece of alpine armor on climbs in the Alaska Range for the last 3 years. My Partner and I wore this pant when climbing on an alpine big wall for a singe 99hr push on Mt. Bradley in 2009. I found it to be a pant that I like to have on the high alpine trips, ones were calculated when choosing gear.

We found when using this alpine shell the reinforced ankle scuff and grommets to keep the boots and socks drier and thus sleeping better at the bivi. The side zippers allow venting and a full-pull while in a harness and crampons essential for quick transitions in applying this full in conditions.

The Paladin Pant is perfect for the big trips, but also recommend them on ascents of Mount Rainier in cold or winter-like conditions. I take Paladin Pant in the pack it the forecast is not favorable in early season Cascades.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Mark Allen

Mark Allen wrote a review of on October 9, 2012

Cold Alpine Action Suit
5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I am excited about the potential this Jacket has for my upcoming winter in Colorado and spring as I return to Alaska. I was able to test this Jacket on some alpine ice guiding in the Cascades while guiding on Rainier during a storm. The Temps where below freezing (10-20F). While guiding the Kautz Glacier Route. I was able to dump heat well while super active during the pitch and retain my heat during the belay while my clients followed. Also I will be defiantly taking this layer again to Logan 2013. This is a great cold weather expedition action suit when it hits the fan in the Yukon. The breathability of the Polartec Power Shield and synch hood certainly was fantastic piece to endure the storm but dump heat while digging to protect camp.

I see this as a great go to jacket for Waterfall Ice climbing on a cold day or moderate cold day allowing you step down in the puff weight you carry or dump it all together.

Also I'm excited to use it on cold ski tours
(-10F -10F) and not be switching jackets at all for the down.

Finally a newer fabric that is holding well thus far. Its built to last by using Polartec Power Shield Pro to give you durable protection.

I recommend this piece and a great new addition to the OR alpine line. Last I have the same color Kyle is sporting in the Vid and I dig it!

(0)

 

0 Comments

0 Comments

Mark Allen

Mark Allen wrote a review of on October 3, 2012

Alpine Battle Glove
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Once again OR aims to hit the target on the mark for Alpine Climbers, Mountaineers, and Ice climbers with a complex technical work glove. Goatskin Leather reinforced in high use areas, lightly insulated with PrimaLoft and Microfleece, and backed with Softshell.

FEATURES:
~Trim insulation for dexterity
~Reinforced Leather palm
~Sealable Cuff
~Harness finger clip: oriented so snow will not enter while on the harness

Perfect for Ascent on:
W. Ridge of Hunter
Mt. Rainier
Chere Coulior Mt. Blanc Tacul
Ice Cliff Glacier Mt. Stewart
Stairway To Heaven: Silverton CO

(0)

 

0 Comments

0 Comments

Mark Allen

Mark Allen wrote a review of on October 3, 2012

Mountaineer or  Alpinist Quiver Glove
4 5

Alpine Alibi II is a glove working in tandem with the Alibi Jacket and pants climates. This mid weight technical leather/Scholler work glove focuses on protection from snow and ice in moderately cold days (30F- -10F) or direct exposure to snow. A few features make this a great snow work glove for patrollers or guides for the day-to-day grind are:
~Full Length Cuff: for deep snow work or climbing
~Full Leather fingers and palms: lasts longer for the season(s) and has reinforced high use areas.
~Light insulation: not to compromise dexterity

I have found that this glove seasons. Meaning once you first put in on its a little tight and the fingers can get cold...but with repeated use the glove molds to your hand perfectly giving you some of the best dexterity a glove has ever offered before in its weight class.

~Ascents Glove was great for:
-W.Ridge: Mt. Hunter
-Quiver glove: Kings Trench: Mt. Logan
-Liberty Ridge: Rainier
-North Ridge: Mt. Baker
-3-summits: Mont Blanc
-Ski Mt Descent of Upper Curtis: Shucksan
-Ski Mt Descent of Kautz Glacier: Rainier
-Day to day Ascents of Rainier

(3)

 

0 Comments