Kevin

Kevin

Kevin 's Passions

Climbing
Kevin

Kevin wrote a question about on June 24, 2012

I got a new pair (not from backcountry)...

I got a new pair (not from backcountry) and I found that the shoe looks different from my old pair and the various pictures of the shoe online (even on Five Ten's own website). So I posted a picture for comparison. The left-most picture shows the new logo design on the side of the shoe. The middle picture shows the way that the "stealth onyxx" rubber is written, compared to the orange onyxx lettering found on my old pair and online. The third shows the old design and is the one I have seen online. So the question is, did they redesign the verde at some point or did I get a counterfeit shoe??? :) If they redesigned it, does it still fit the same?

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Kevin

Kevin wrote a review of on June 17, 2012

5 5

These are great shoes. I mainly use them for cracks and granite and they are excellent. They provide all day comfort once broken in. I normally wear 9.5 but I size them down to 9. After I would say 10 to 12 routes the shoes will have broken in and they fit like they were custom made. Whenever I put them on or take them off I get a satisfying "vacuum suction" sound that tells me it is fits perfectly. But before they are broken in, after a few routes my heels start to hurt terribly. After they are broken in, it is literally all day comfort. I have seen people wear these for steep bouldering and I don't know how since they are way too loose after they are broken in.

Also, these shoes are not the most durable if you mainly climb cracks. Put some stealth paint on the top to prevent your toe from popping through the leather before the rubber does. But also the rubber will wear out quite fast in my experience. The worse is probably the glue that holds the top to the leather stops working and the top rubber starts to separate from the leather. I am not sure they can be resoled at that point but that's the tradeoff for one of the best shoes ever made is that they are not the most durable.

These are my go-to shoes for outdoor traditional climbing.

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Kevin

Kevin wrote a review of on June 15, 2010

1 5

This has to be the worst thing that you could do to your expensive climbing shoes. I followed the video instructions invodo.com and he had it totally smooth and good. I don't know how he is able to do that because mine is all clumpy and messy. I also had to apply twice (4 teaspoons) because it wasn't enough to cover the surface area of my one shoe. I applied it to my right foot and needless to say I won't do it to my left. I just hope I will be doing a bunch of slab climbs and not finger cracks until these shoes die.

Now that I think of it, my mocs blow out at the bottom at the same time it does on top, so it makes no sense to apply the rubber on top to increase the lifetime because when the bottom blows you can't wear them anymore.

PS. I also wish that five ten would go the extra step and come up with a better solution, like a pre-mixed rubber liquid that dries.

PPS. Wow, now the mocs are stiff at the top, totally kills the comfort. Someone shoot me.

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