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Joshua

Joshua

Horse Pens 40, Rock Town, LRC/Stone Fort, Rumbling Bald, Red River Gorge

Joshua's Passions

Trad Climbing
Backpacking
Camping
Hiking
Trail Running
Mountaineering
Sport Climbing
Bouldering

Joshua's Bio

Joshua

Joshua wrote a review of on March 21, 2011

5 5

Just got back from a weekend in Rumbling Bald in NC and after 3 days of bouldering morning and night, I can vouch for the performance and endurance of these shoes. I switched to these shoes from 2 pairs of Evolv Optimus Primes and while the Primes were much more comfortable for my wide feet, as they were A) Only a half size down from my street shoe, and B) Designed to be a little bit wider, but a little less aggressive.

The 5.10's are a full size down from my street shoe of 9.5 wide. I have a caveman foot and it makes shoe shopping, and even moreso, rock climbing shoe shopping very difficult. The Quantums stretch out a ton on the sides and even on the heel area to allow my fat foot foot to squeeze in, albeit, with a good bit of initial struggling. They do require a bit of a break in period to get the maximum potential from the rubber, again, another difference from the Evolv's Trax rubber, which was good out of the box, but had an extremely short lifespan in the toe area. I primarily boulder indoors so the walls aren't nearly as aggressive as real rock; the rapid decay of rubber was very disappointing to me. The Quantums Stealth rubber however has help up fantastically through many indoor boulder sessions, to break in the rubber and to help send some long term projects, and also through my weekend of spirited climbing outdoors and very sharp granite.

The Quantums were GREAT at finding and sticking to tiny foot jibs that my old shoes were guarunteed to pop off of. Some examples of small crystal foot problems, done this weekend are, Don't Run- V8, Rotator Cuff- V5, Chris Klein's Corner- V5. and Torque Master- V6. They are very downturned and very aggressive and take a bit of adjusting to get used to. But once you figure out how to press in with the toes the shoes won't let you down.

They were also very good at holding some pretty intense heels. They held well on Brackish Water- V8, a V8 sit start technical problem with I forgot the name of in the cluster area, and the double heel hook beta used to send Patio Roof-V8.

I can't say enough good things about these shoes. Yes they hurt like crap for someone with wide feet. Yes the heel does cut into the ankle a little as they have the low heel design of the older Anasazis. Yes they do have a tough break in period. But you know they're worth that every time when I finally get them on and know that I can trust them to get the job done on my projects. You sold me 5.10, great job Quantum; I'm looking forward to a future with more sends.

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Joshua

Joshua wrote a review of on February 7, 2011

4 5

These were my first rock climbing shoes that I've owned and I'm on my second pair. To start off I wear a wide 9.5 street shoe. My first pair was the same size as my street shoe and I nearly cried at the pain. After many bouldering sessions, as that's what I primarily do, the shoes loosen up considerably. It got to the pain that my heel was popping off any time I'd try a fully committed heel hook. So I got a second pair a half size down and they fit much more snuggly. Heel completely filled in and toe box snug. After time the shoes continue to stretch and I have a problem with the heel again. Now the problem I had with both pairs is that the rubber burns though very very qiuickly. It does not last long at all. Now I normally do bouldering 3-4 times a week at a v7-v8 level and toe chips get very small at that point. As the rubber loses it's aggressiveness, the ability to latch on to those chips goes away very quickly. Overhanging, roof, and technical slab where holds are microscopic take more effort because you trust you feet less. However the ability to smear well is amazing. I can do slab stuff and smearing much better than my friend in his solutions. Also for toe hooks the rubber is placed in an awkward location on the rand. There's an opening on top of the toe box where the yellow preforated material is exposed and that's where the rubber needs to be when using toe hooks. Can you still do it? Absolutely. Could you do it better? Absolutely. I don't want to be seen as knocking them though. They've done me well and have helped me send many difficult problems that use aggressive heels, toes and smears. But for what I do I need something more aggressive that will last longer, probably a lace-up 5.10.

Pros: Great at smearing and at small chips while rubber is fresh.
Super comfortable for wider feet.
Two strap system makes on/off easy.
Heel shape is very effective as long as sizing is snug.
Mesh tongue breathes great and helps wick nasty foot sweat away.
Not as downturned as other shoes so walking around in them is possible.

Cons: Shoes stretch ALOT with much use.
Rubber goes away fast! My toes have gone through the rubber and the rand.
Heel slips often, even when straps are cinched down beyond max and shoes stretch.
No rubber in the one spot its needed on top of the toe box.
Not quite aggressive and sensitive enough for delicate footwork on roof problems.

Overall, great transition shoe from entry to more aggressive, but as you step up your climbing, you need to step up your shoe.

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Joshua

Joshua wrote a review of on February 7, 2011

5 5

This has been to France, Mexico and multiple camping and hiking trips around the Southeast US. It's seen rain, condensation, horrendous manhandling in Int'l airports, 20 foot falls from Mayan Ruins in Becan and a tumble down a sanddune at the beach. It just keeps on going.

First the Features: First off, this thing has a massive multitude of zippers and pockets everywhere. On the lid alone are 2, One on the outside right behind the head, the other on the inside, accessable once the lid is flipped open. There's one on the very front with a waterproof zipper. It's small but functional. There's 2 side pockets, one on either side, both of which have an opening at the top to allow a drinking tube to be attached to the straps. And there's also a tiny pocket on the right waist strap. On the very bottom is the compartment that contains the built in rain cover which works fantastically! While not a leaky backpack on its own, the cover adds that much more protection against the rain. I can vouch for it's effectiveness as it kept all my gear dry while sitting exposed in a downpour in the Mayan Jungle.

Inside the main compartment(s) things get fun. There's a small elastic dividing pocket to keep knicknacks out of the way. There's also a bright orange velcro gear loop inside. Perfect for attatching rope, strings, quick draws, or whatever else you might want. Now on the outside bottom of the pack is a zipper to allow access inside. Near that area inside of the pack is a folding flap that you can zip/unzip to create one large space, or a small space on bottom, and a larger space up top. I generally Keep it open myself and use the bottom access to get things I can't from the main opening at the top. If you're well organized you can fit a ton of stuff inside.

Outside has all the compression straps, gear loops, and water bottle pockets. The two side waterbottle pockets are pretty much inaccessable while the pack is on and the side straps cinched down. The gear loops on the outside used with some 100lb test paracord and carabiners allows for a lot of attatchments to be on there. Pots, pans, tent poles, sleeping pads, climbing gear, etc.

The suspension system was great and felt completely natural for me. I'm 5'8" and the hip straps hugged them perfectly. Completely weighed down with gear it felt like I had 5 pounds on my back. Overall for light packing, and in a pinch, more extensive planning, this thing is capable of so much more than one could think.

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Joshua

Joshua wrote a review of on February 7, 2011

5 5

I've had this for about a year now and I've taken it through hell and back. It's been with me in a 2 day downpour in Ecoun, France; a week of on and off rain in the Mayan Jungles of Becan Mexico; Multiple trips in the cold and wet of Chandler and Pideon Crawford mountains for multi day bouldering sessions. It's still holding up strong.

At 5'8" and 160 pounds I have the small and I love the atheletic fit it provides while still having enough room to have a decent anmount of clothing underneath it. Wore a base layer and softshell underneath this in high 40's/low 30's while in the windy rain at Horse Pens 40 and my upper body was warm and dry.

Only gripe, and a small one at that, is that while half zipped, the upper shoulders and hood tend to droop some. But if you're wearing, most likely its for the purpose of keeping you dry so it'll be zipped all the way.

I also love how it fits inside of it's own pocket. When rolled up like that it ends up about the size of a standard soda can. Easily packable and easily brought out. PLus underarm zips are great when it gets a little too stuffy. Got this in Gecko Green and I get nothing but compliments on it. Great Jacket! If it ever wears out on me I would definitely get another one.

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