Josh Allred

Josh Allred

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Josh Allred

Josh Allred wrote an answer about on November 25, 2012

Though I have not bought the Acto MX, I am going to for christmas. I have done a tone a research on the Acto and Gamma. I was trying to decide between the two as well. I just totally revamped my system. I use to use Synthetic jacket like the montbell thermawrap and arc atom lt and would sweat WAY too much. Now...

New system:
Base Layer: Ltw meriono wool like Rho Ltw
Midweight: Acto MX
Outershell: Just got the Alpha FL to specifically go with Acto- I have the Alpha LT as well and I am going to most likely sell it. 3 Layer Gor is way tooo much. Excited to try this piece. The two layer will hopefully be breathable enough. If not I am done with Gor.
Pants: Gamma Lt - No gaitors, using bungee cords w/ grommets
Synthetic Belay Jacket: Dually, Kappa, Patagonia DAS type of jacket
Synthetic Pants: Atom Lt

Personally I am going with the acto. I have used the gamma a couple times and like it for trips to Ouray but not for alpine climbing, mountaineering it seems like acto is going to be a game changer for me personally.

Sorry I dont have first hand experience in the field. I have tried on the acto and it is a top quality jacket. Ill let you know in a couple months how it all plays out.

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Josh Allred

Josh Allred wrote an answer about on November 5, 2012

Thanks. Im looking into revamping my system. Any thoughts/opinions of a baselayer (synthetic or wool depending on weather), Acto MX, Alpha FL Hardshell and belay jacket (for rest stops, Im thinking Atom SV) a good system? Ill be doing high output activities such as mountaineering, alpine climbing and ice climbing on 14ers. Hoping to do some winter ascents as well.

Does anyone know how warm the Acto is compared to a piece like the R1?

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Josh Allred

Josh Allred wrote a question about on October 30, 2012

Venta MX vs Gamma MX

I am torn between the venta mx vs the gamma mx.

I have tried on the Gamma MX. I am concerned that the Gamma might be a tad short with pulling over the harness. I did like the feel and weight of the Gamma. It seems like a time tested piece.

The Venta looks like a great piece as well. I am wondering how it fits compared to the Gamma. I am also concerned about how well it breathes and how it packs.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

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Josh Allred

Josh Allred wrote a question about on February 13, 2012

I am looking for a jacket that would hold up in winter conditions when the shiz hits the fan and that would work well for Ice climbing and mountaineering. I have a Beta AR that I am impress with but it is a bit bulky and the hip cut is bit short for me. It also might be over the top for ice climbing days. Im looking into the Alpha SV and LT. The Lt seems it would be better for alpine style (Ice climbing, alpine routes, light and fast) and the SV would be better for expeditions.

I guess my questions are how durable is the LT? Would the LT hold up well in really crummy conditions (not necessary better than the sv, but can hold its own)?

Thanks

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