Jonowrote a review of Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Edge on March 7, 2014
Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Fit: Runs small
I've used these a bit, just trying to get them broken in. I've noticed that they're quite tight - but in a good way. My toes don't get cramped side to side, the toe box is pretty wide compared to Evolv and LaSportiva shoes that I've worn in the past. The heal is pretty good, but there's a tiny bit of dead space on the sides making it feel only the slightest bit unstable when heal hooking on the side compared to the back. I wear a size 8-8.5 US and went with a 40 Euro (7.5 US according to size charts), and would probably have gone down one half size if I wanted them to be really tight but they seem good how they are (could wear them out of the box for about 2 or 3 boulder problems, max ~ 10 minutes). On a scale of 1 to 10 for downturnedness, they're probably a 8--I don't know why it says Moderate because they're more downturned than my Evolv Predators which are supposedly very downturned. I would also note that out of the box the midsole is not very soft--they're more of a stiff edging shoe now, but we'll see if they soften up and become more sensitive. One thing I noticed about the reverse slingshot rand was the fact that it drives power to your toes. I could feel my calves initiating the push a bit more than other shoes without this construction, and it really felt like I had a stronger push from my toes. Overall impressions is that they're a great shoe, can't wait to get them broken in!