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Jesse

Jesse

Jesse's Passions

Climbing

Jesse

Jessewrote a review of on May 3, 2010

5 5

this was my second Petzl harness (the last was a Bonnie which I used until it had some wear in the webbing). I went to a few local REI's and climbing gyms and tried on every harness I could afford (under $100), there were the good (BD Aura), the bad (BD Iris) and the super duper worst harness ever (Mammut Vision). I settled on the Selena because of it's comfort (you can hang for days in this), price, brand and finally cool color. I have recommended this harness over the Luna since I found the stretchy fixed leg loops more comfortable than the rigid adjustable leg loops, just note that if you have larger thighs (comme moi), you'll want to size up (my Bonnie was a S and I went with M for the Selena).

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Jesse

Jessewrote a review of on May 3, 2010

5 5

I have been climbing with my kids Petzl Meteor helmet for years now (since I was a kid) and although it still fits and has never taken a beating I figured that being in my 20s now I should get a grow-up helmet. I tried on every helmet I could find (petzl, camp, black diamond, etc) at multiple retail stores. Although I almost went with a grown-up Petzl Meteor, I'm glad I saw an ad for this in Climbing Magazine. The Elia is lightweight, well vented and best of all lets me pull my hair up and out of the way. I love the quick adjust sliders on the sides too, they make fitting the helmet over a hat or headband really simple. The only thing I wish were different would be the color, the non-ponytail friendly Elios has a great orange color, I would love complementary colors for the Elia, instead of just fancy accent colors.

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Jesse

Jessewrote a review of on September 30, 2009

2 5

I bought these shoes after a long break from climbing, hoping to ease my feet back in to shape slowly. After about a month I was fed up.

Pros:
-cheap
-velcro
-narrow heel

cons:
-rubber, having climbing almost exclusively in Five Ten's before, I was really frustrated with the ability to stay on small chips and smears, I was always feeling like I was about to slip and smash my face in to the wall
-stretch, I bought these true to my street size, thinking that I wanted comfort and being synthetic I wouldn't have to worry about stretch. After a month I felt as though my feet were drowning in these shoes, not daring to even attempt heel hooks.

That's my 2 cents.

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Jesse

Jessewrote a review of on September 30, 2009

4 5

I've been out of climbing for a while. Back in the day I used to climb in Five Ten Dragons and Boreal Matrix's, both shoe sized aggressively tight. It was surreal to me to have a shoe that I could pull hard on 10d/11a in the gym and not have to slip them off as soon as I hit the ground. The upper is super soft and stretches nicely. The rubber grips, well like stealth rubber always does, solidly. I tried to go cheap at first and bough a pair of Evolv's before this but the rubber just wasn't up to what I have grown used to with Five Ten and I quickly snatched these up.

Now the bad:
-stink, these shoes do not breath at all, and your feet will SWEAT!! I use cedar blocks in them to help afterwards, but they are still not allowed inside my climbing bag (I use the water bottle pocket on the outside for them)
-although exceedingly comfortable, I wish I had sized just a hlaf size down, after 2 months of 3-4 day a week gym climbing the rubber around the crease between my tows and top of my foot is starting to pull away, I think due to the ammount of pressure put on the spot when i climb
-the laces are WAY to long, both the regular and elastic are SUPER long. I got around this by cutting the elastics and burning the ends together about 2 inches above where the are tight on my foot, this way i can get in and out easily, but am not worried about stepping on my laces.

Overall, I love these shoes, they have there foibles for sure, but the comfort combined with the sweet rubber really make them my fave all around shoe.

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