Jesse's Passions



Jesse wrote a review of on May 3, 2010

5 5

this was my second Petzl harness (the last was a Bonnie which I used until it had some wear in the webbing). I went to a few local REI's and climbing gyms and tried on every harness I could afford (under $100), there were the good (BD Aura), the bad (BD Iris) and the super duper worst harness ever (Mammut Vision). I settled on the Selena because of it's comfort (you can hang for days in this), price, brand and finally cool color. I have recommended this harness over the Luna since I found the stretchy fixed leg loops more comfortable than the rigid adjustable leg loops, just note that if you have larger thighs (comme moi), you'll want to size up (my Bonnie was a S and I went with M for the Selena).





Jesse wrote a review of on September 30, 2009

4 5

I've been out of climbing for a while. Back in the day I used to climb in Five Ten Dragons and Boreal Matrix's, both shoe sized aggressively tight. It was surreal to me to have a shoe that I could pull hard on 10d/11a in the gym and not have to slip them off as soon as I hit the ground. The upper is super soft and stretches nicely. The rubber grips, well like stealth rubber always does, solidly. I tried to go cheap at first and bough a pair of Evolv's before this but the rubber just wasn't up to what I have grown used to with Five Ten and I quickly snatched these up.

Now the bad:
-stink, these shoes do not breath at all, and your feet will SWEAT!! I use cedar blocks in them to help afterwards, but they are still not allowed inside my climbing bag (I use the water bottle pocket on the outside for them)
-although exceedingly comfortable, I wish I had sized just a hlaf size down, after 2 months of 3-4 day a week gym climbing the rubber around the crease between my tows and top of my foot is starting to pull away, I think due to the ammount of pressure put on the spot when i climb
-the laces are WAY to long, both the regular and elastic are SUPER long. I got around this by cutting the elastics and burning the ends together about 2 inches above where the are tight on my foot, this way i can get in and out easily, but am not worried about stepping on my laces.

Overall, I love these shoes, they have there foibles for sure, but the comfort combined with the sweet rubber really make them my fave all around shoe.