Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston

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Jeff 's Passions

Trad Climbing
Backpacking
Camping
Mountain Biking

Jeff 's Bio

Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on February 28, 2011

4 5

I just got back from using the Fusions for an ice climbing tour of 4 days and climbing 6-7 hours a day. These tools are quite sweet. They stick like a dream, you just have to drop down at the last second or the pick does not hit right on the point. Other than that its reasonable light weight, the handle grip is super comfortable. The on and only perk over my nomics is the spike and the pommel, it really makes mantling at top out easy and give a solid clip point for an umbilical.
I had the laser pick on so Mix climbing was a bit hard on the tips, defiantly go with the titan pick for mixed.
So to date my favorite tools are the Petzl Nomics, Bd Cobras (new style) then the BD Fusions.

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on December 23, 2010

4 5

I have the one of each of the screw lock and auto locks. Both are great biners and does quite well for belaying and master point of anchors. I really like the snag free keylock nose.My only gripe is the auto lock has frozen open on me while alpine, and ice climbing. Just a bit of moisture gets in the mechanism and the spring does not have the tension to overcome the friction, so its a three season biner. Use the screw gate for winter use

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a question about on January 9, 2010

So what the difference between the Caribou boot and the Caribou reserve? what justifies $300 difference is price? I have used the regualr caribou for 15 years for winter hiking and snowshoeing down to -50F and they have been great. If the reserve are that much better Ill try them but I need a pretty good reason to drop an extra 300 bones for no apparet reason. so What is the difference?

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on May 15, 2009

4 5

I really like this biner. It light weight, and plently big for my fat fingers. I use these on the rope end of my cams. they clip just perfect and have the gate hook covered so it can not snag on grear and clothing. This is by far my favorite wire gate biner I own. the only con is the price over 10 bones each, but the performance of the biner makes it worth it IMHO

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on April 17, 2009

4 5

For single pitch sport climbing/top roping, this is a great device. I have had mine for 8 years and its starting to get warn out. I cant complain its has performed 100% every time. It deffantly worth the $ tag. I have used it for 9.5-10.5mm ropes and it has done just fine. with a 10.5 mm rope its not the smoothest feeding device out there, but its tood to bad either.

How ever for multi pitch or where you would have to hike in a ways, you would be better off with somthing a bit less bulky. Great device but is big and heavy. If your the kind of climber that lookig to shed OZs than ther are smaller and lighter belay devices out there.

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on April 16, 2009

4 5

This this has saved my mellon on several occasions. I have been working this route with a 7 foot roof, I have smacks my head many times trying to pull over the lip. and falling and bashing the side of my head of the lip when I peel. This helmet is cheap and works just fine. my head is still intact because if it.
After several good solid impacts it has only a few scracthes. I recomed this helmet

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on April 16, 2009

5 5

Iam a big fan of the key lock style biners, I keep getting any thing with a notch snaged of stuff. These are a bit small for belaying with but for anchors and clipping in to stuff these are one of the best I have foud. I use them for top rop anchors and belay station anchors and for my p.a.s. I recommended these any time.

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on April 16, 2009

5 5

I love these for sport climbing. they are light and handle relly nice. For some reason they fit my hand well and are super smooth to opperate. the key lock feature is nice, it dosent snag on bolt hangers and clothing like the standard notched biners to. For a solid gate biner they are light in weight as well. I rack these on every route.

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on April 16, 2009

5 5

I have had this rope for a season now and its been great. This rope is very durable, it has been set up as a top rope for many climbs and the sheath has performed better than I would have expected. due to the sharp technology the rope is a bit stiff, so make sure you knots are tied well.
As far a a fall goes this rope is like landing on a rubber band, its super soft to fall on, evan from a 12 foot lead fall. Its evan fairly light weight for a 10.5mm. my 70 m sharp weighs just a bit more than my old PMI 50M 10.5m.
The only thing that could make this rope better is if it was available in a 9.6-9.8 mm version.

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on April 16, 2009

1 5

OK, so for single pitch and you are never going to leave the ground its an ok device, its does feed the rop well, but thats it.
you can rap with it for crap, you cant stuff a doubled up rope in there. You can belay a second for an anchor.
$17 worth of limiting equipment. go spend an extra $2 and get a twin tube at least. for $10 more get a atc guide.
this has got to be just about the most useless thing out there for the money. Don't get it.

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on April 16, 2009

4 5

-It feeds the rope well.
-It built stout, a bit heavy for the size but its solid
-it belays a second from a upper anchor very well,
-its a bit grabby while lowering someone but it grabs a fall very well.
-The little hole for releasing a un-climbable second could be better
designed.
-The notched side is a bit much for rappeling it tend to grab the rop, I turn it around to smooth out the decent,
this is one of the most versitle and usefull devices out there I really glad I got one.

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Jeffrey Johnston

Jeffrey Johnston wrote a review of on November 28, 2008

4 5

Nice design, works just like the reverso3 but way beefier and the eye that the anchor beiner goes through is 90* to the reverso3. Wich is nice depending how your anchor is set up. If your going light weight than the reverse is nice. the atc guide super smooth with a 10.5 mm rope, belaying, raping, and topping a second. It a well thought out design. I recommend this any time.

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