Jake C

Jake C

Colorado Climbing: Fort Collins & Colorado Springs

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Jacob's Passions

Snowboarding
Hiking
Mountain Biking
Sport Climbing
Bouldering

Jacob's Bio

Jake C

Jake C wrote a review of on December 10, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs large

I have climbed in almost every model of climbing shoe that Sportiva makes, and this is one of my favorites. I also currently own Solutions and TC Pros. Basically, while I can use any of these shoes for nearly any climbing application, I prefer to use the Miura Lace for outdoor sport climbing, Solutions for gym climbing, and the TC pros for long trad days. I wear a 11 US (44.5 EU) street shoe, but sized each of the models down accordingly:
Miura Lace: 42 (snug, not excruciating)
Solutions: 42.5 (snug, not excruciating)
TC Pros: 43 (comfortable)
Hope this helps!

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Jake C

Jake C wrote a review of on November 30, 2012

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I ended up getting these shoes because they were on sale a while back, so I didn't expect anything spectacular, but I have been very impressed so far. I wear a 11 street shoe, so after trying them on at my local gear shop, I went with a 11.5, which was a good decision. For reference, I wear a 10 in Moccasyms and a 42.5 in aggressive sportivas (testarossa, solution, etc.). The fit is not bad after break in, so I can usually wear them for 15-20 minutes at a time. Hope this helps! Next time I'm going to get the new version and see how they have changed.

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Jake C

Jake C wrote a review of on October 20, 2010

My new favorite jacket
5 5

Another solid product from Mountain Hardwear. It is super light, and so far has not let me down for warmth. It breathes really well, so I am comfortable wearing it on chilly hikes and morning bike rides to school. I was really impressed when it kept me warm through a rain storm last week. Not exactly what it was made for, but came through anyway. Primaloft is the way to go!

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Jake C

Jake C wrote a review of on September 8, 2010

4 5

I received my speedsters about 3 weeks ago, and as of yet, have been pretty impressed. I sized them the same as my testarossas, which proved to be a good decision. The first time I climbed in them, I was super disappointed because there is this weird band of different rubber around the toe rand. My feet were popping off holds left and right, where they hadn't in my testarossas. After a few more sessions though, I am beginning to like them a lot more, and my feet have stopped randomly popping off. It will be interesting to see how long they last though, as the rubber is only 3mm thick, in comparison to the testarossas and solutions which are 3.5mm. I originally ordered the "discontinued rubber" from backcountry, but they must have ran out or something because I was upgraded to the new XS Grip2.

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Jake C

Jake C wrote a review of on June 24, 2009

5 5

Awesome for indoor climbing and steep sport routes. This shoe has lasted me longer than any other shoe, especially for how much I climb in the gym (4-5 times a week). I could instantly tell the difference when climbing on the ceiling routes. My only complaint is that the heal can be a bit slippery if you're trying to do a hard heel hook, but you can't have the best of both worlds when it's so easy to take these on and off. Bottom line, if you want to improve your indoor climbing or bouldering, then these would certainly help you out. I wear 11.5 street shoe, 10 in anasazi, and also a 10 in these.

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Jake C

Jake C wrote a review of on June 24, 2009

5 5

I love this shoe for all of my non-steep climbs outside. This is my go-to shoe for both slab and crack climbing. Some of the hardest routes in the world have been climbed in these shoes, so you can't blame the rubber. I usually wear a 11 or 11.5 street shoe, so I sized these down to 10. They are a bit tight at first, but they conform to your foot very quickly. Bottom line, if you're not planning on doing any crazy overhangs, then these would be a very good choice.

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Jake C

Jake C wrote a review of on June 24, 2009

2 5

I bought these shoes expecting them to break in within a few sessions. Well, they were equally painful through the entire time I owned them. This is contrary to all other shoes that I have owned. They were alright for indoor climbing, but the rubber was awful for outdoor in my opinion. The topping on the cake for these shoes was that they smelled worse than any other shoe that I have ever smelled. I don't know if it's the rubber that evolv uses, but I had to throw them away after only 2 months. In conclusion, go with another shoe!

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