Dow Williams

Dow Williams

Saint George, Utah and Canmore, Alberta

Dow Williams's Passions

Running
Paddling
Skiing
Climbing

Dow Williams's Bio

Henry David Thoreau: "I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived."

Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on October 18, 2009

5 5

they appear to have shaved an ounce off of their previously light weight jacket....this one is down to 5.7 oz! No pockets, no frills...perfect for winter desert belays or Canadian Rockies summer belays....of course you would not want to try and climb in it....I love the weight in terms of strapping its self contained bag to my harness, would also consider it a mid layer ski and ice climbing opt.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on September 6, 2009

Improvement...
4 5

over Mammut (which I have used for years) and I will tell the simple reason why...Mammut covers their stitching...which was done to allow ropes to run over the sling easier. I really don't thing that is an issue on a sling this size and was always a bit uncomfortable having any portion of my sling hidden. Too much rock fall in my next of the woods.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on September 6, 2009

Many years now...
5 5

my number one pack, the air ventilation system they developed against your back, along with egomaniacally correct hip belt has yet to be matched. Not sure why not. I have every size with Osprey and use the 35 the most for trad and waterfall ice. Zippers will give out first, but about the same time you will start to develop a hole or two in the bottom of the fabric as well. All normal for the full time abuse on limestone and sandstone that I give them.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on September 5, 2009

Talus Pants
5 5

Huge fan of this pant....can't even look at 9 out of 10 pants because they won't make the inseam long enough for a climber at 5'11", 150lbs, did not know I was such an abnormality. Anyway, the pRana Canyoneering pant was a good pant, made a long inseam, but the built in belt was breaking on all of them, so broke down and just decided to buy a pant with loops....and this is a tough pant, willing to put up with a lot of abrasion (I mostly climb limestone and sandstone)...best improvement for me was the ease of opening the front pockets with one hand while belaying...vs how pRana had done that Canyoneering pant with too small of a zipper cord.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on September 5, 2009

Been around, come back to them...
5 5

I climb hard rock and ice, have every dimension and length of rope known to man...but for the Canadian Rockies' hard alpine routes, long approaches with 5.10 and up climbing....this is what I want. Beal Ice Lines are more for ice. Edelweiss Sharp 8.5's still to heavy. Have had several set of these, and they handle the best for doubles when weight means a lot.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on April 23, 2009

5 5

Well the American obesity thing continues to affect my shoe size, pant size and shirt size. I guess I am shrinking! Anyway, OR is still making the best tech alpine climbing shirt in the biz, but the sizes have grown. At 150lbs, I am clearly a small now. Even considering it goes over another shirt as a pull over. Backcountry.com is now offering a new color compared to everybody only having black for the longest time, which of course sucks on sun baked routes. I would not buy a black climbing shirt. The whole idea of this product is you can't get too hot in it (unless it is black), as it protects you from the wind or light rain.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on April 8, 2009

5 5

Know how to place them, know their range. I had a partner who stuck the #2 in a .5" crack. Yes, they cam down to their core, but you will not get them out. Just like all cams, you stick them that tight, they are not safe pro either. Know their range. They now have a .75 and .5. That .5 is excellent for a variable piece to supplement your .3, .4 and .5. This will end up being one of the most used pieces on my rack as I don't always carry double those sizes.

At first I didn't grasp the concept and what they were trying to achieve. As mostly a technical alpine climber, I saw the cams as too heavy which offset the range advantage. But as I came to understood they were only going to make a few as truly a supplement to your rack, I got it. Very nice. I reach for them all the time. Really solid product, actually allows you to take less into the backcountry at the end of the day.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on April 8, 2009

4 5

Unfortunately, they obviously have an issue with the built in belt breaking far before the pants are shredded. I climb sandstone and limestone 24/7, the material is the toughest climbing pant out there in terms of putting up with climbing abuse, however the belts all break and this is commonly reported on reviews. My solution was to have my sister-in-law (thank god I know someone who sews, because no one in this household can) sew in addition belt loops (one is already on the pant) so I can use a belt with them. Also, more sad news for those of us who are skinny and tall. They no longer do the standard 33" inseam, now a "small" is quite wide and short, to fit where America is heading. I realize us skinny and fit climbing dudes are obviously not their most profitable market, despite this being the best climbing pant out there in my opinion. I still cannot find a better replacement, so still worth buying at the moment.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on February 4, 2009

2 5

I already use a traditional Black Diamond ice screw storage wrap. My crampon bag tore up so thought I could use this to store an additional 6 screws with my crampons. The photo and description Black Diamond uses leads you to believe there are sleeve protectors built in this product to protect the threads. There are not. Therefore the extra bulk of this product does nothing but add additional weight in my opinion. Better off keeping your crampons and screws separate and tidier in my opinion.

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams wrote a review of on November 21, 2008

4 5

a huge fan was on Arrow Place at Red Rocks using my partners Ball Nut. Better really for aid and granite routes, but we find our purpose for these bad boys in the sandstone at times. A savior at the start of Arrow Place where cacti wait patiently below the crux decking move.

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