David Burberry

David Burberry

Cascade Mountains of the Pacific North West

David Burberry's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Snowboarding
Biking
Climbing

David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on June 2, 2011

3 5

This is one of the few keylock ovals on the market and the only one sold on backcountry.com. I bought it for use as a racking biner for my nuts. The oval shape and keylock nose make this perfect for this application. The down side to this biner however is its wieght. At 68g it is more than 2.5 times heavier than the 26g biner I use for each of my cams. It also makes it the single heaviest non locking biner I own. Thankfully I only use one.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on June 2, 2011

5 5

This slings are super light like most other dyneema slings on the market. But what I really like about them is how they have colored coded the different sizes unlike other manufacturer who have assorted colors for every size. I especially like how they make the orange 240cm sling which can be used as a super light cordelette for three piece anchors. Its also long enough to equalize two pieces of snow protection for crevasse rescue.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on June 2, 2011

3 5

I bought this cord originally from REI for use as prusik cord for crevasse rescue. However when I opened it I immediately could tell that it was too stiff for use as a prusik and after testing it on my 10.5 rope it just slipped through. So I instead put a double fisherman's knot in it and converted it to a cordelette.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on June 1, 2011

5 5

These full size biners have everything going for them
- strong (10kn open gate strength)
- super light (33g for a full size biner amazing)
- smooth gate action
- secure (tried to cross load these biners using every way possible. Even thin dyneema slings would just flip past the gate area and load the caribiner along its major axis. I really have to wonder how they even get a minor axis rating)

The only downside is the cost, so just wait till they have a 10% or 20% deal on these and do yourself a favor and pick them up.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on June 1, 2011

5 5

These biners directly compete with BD Neutrinos. When comparing wieght they are 26g which is 10g lighter than neutrinos. The only biners that are lighter are CAMP 23s or Metolius F.S. Mini both of which are smaller than this biner. Strength wise these biners also have stronger open gate strength. From a subjective point of view I find the gates to operate smoother and the bright anodizing makes them look cool and stand out on your rack. The only downside is the price which I overcame when they where 20% off.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on June 3, 2010

5 5

This biner and the dmm shadow are the best solid gate biners you can buy. The keylock nose and the strong open gate strength make them the best. I recomend these for general rock climbing where wieght is not a concern. Unless your doing hard alpine climbing than the spirit mixed with some other light weight wire gates is the best option for 90% of climbers out there.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on May 28, 2010

5 5

These things are really the best you can get for all around carabiner and it shows in the price. They are light for a full size biner. Also the no catch nose stops works like a charm. Because of it there is no catch point for sling, rope, or anything else to catch on and potentially cross load the biner. Even he petzl spirit(best solid gate in my opinion) can catch where the gate connects to the biner.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on May 28, 2010

3 5

These things are all you really need if your just starting out or are looking for some cheap draws. They are not the lightest or the fanciest but they will still catch a fall. Bottom line if your buying biners for alpine or trad spend a bit more but if your just getting into the sport or need some cheap draws then pick these up.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on May 25, 2010

5 5

This thing is super. When it comes to the belaying function it really does lock up like a camming device (gri gri). On super thin ropes it may slip allitle but fine if you are always have your brake hand on. The 10.5 mm rope i generaly use however lock up on falls 99.99% of the time. It locks up good enough that it would easily stop a fall with the brake hand off the rope. (not that you should every do this). The only downfall is its limited function, belaying the leader, but it does it very well.

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David Burberry

David Burberry wrote a review of on May 18, 2010

5 5

This thing should be on every climbers rack do to its versatiliy, O and its cheaper than the reverso.It can belay the leader as good as any tube style device on the market. It can make smooth rappels even with a large pack on. It can belay the second in guide mode which is self locking. It can even function as a crude ratchet in a hauling or rescue scenario. In addition all climbers who do multipitch should have a device like this because belaying the second directly off the anchor is safer 95% of the time compared to redirecting the belay(pulley effect).

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