Midwestern Corn Country
If you don't want to read any futher I would suggest the Yokozuna Reaction shift cables but not the brake cables. I had two sets on these cables one set was professionally installed one installed by myself.
1. Cables fit well with my SRAM Red and Rival drive trains.
2. Noticeable improvement in shifting over old or cheap cables.
3. The system stayed lubricated and efficient the entire time I used the cables.
4. Very minimal cable stretch. These are not like the shop cables which stretch out some much after the first week you need to re-adjust your derailleurs.
1. I didn't like the looks of the smoke. Can I get black please.
2. The cable a bit stiffer and you need to leave a little extra cable in our rear loop.
3. The plastic ferules wore through on the rear derailleur because the cable is a bit stiffer that most.
1. The inner cable is super strong, increases brake power a bit and doesn't stretch.
1. This things are stiff as hell and are difficult to cut and size properly. They don't bend around anything.
2. If was almost impossible to use these with my SRAM Red Aerolink brakes because they use a self centering floating spring alignment rather than fixing the brake position with a bolt. For this reason the cable length is very important, but these cable are so stiff there is no room for error. And forgot trying to change the brake position for a wider we of wheels. I assume this would affect all brakes with the same design.
3. The cable is so stiff I couldn't get it to work in the rear without binding up the brakes. This could be the angle the cable takes our of my Look frame.
4. The ferules for the brakes didn't fit in my SRAM shifters easily. I have to force then in to the shifter.
5. Even with professional cable cutters the housing crushed and but be rounded back out with a pick.
6. The stiff cable will rub the finish right off the bike
I have been using various crank brothers pedals for 10 years on my mountain, cross bikes, and commuter. It most conditions I love the pedals. Easy in and out and if you don't power wash directly in the pedal the bearing will last a really long time. I am still using my original pair. I have been using the candy 2 on my cross bike for that last two seasons. I am fairly satisfied but two things bother me.
1. Sometime the disengagement seems inconsistent meaning coming into the barriers with any speed is unnerving. "Am I going to get uncliped or not?!!!! Okay, it working this time". I have followed advice to use the stainless carbon sole protectors and change shoes to sidi and still have the problem.
2. While the pedal is known to shed mud well the cleat to pedal interface doesn't seem to work well when muddy. After a muddy runup a few weeks back I seemed to have far more trouble clipping in for the descent than other riders.
Judges Decision: I am going to try the new Shimano SPD next season for cyclocross.
I have carbon Sidi and Mavic shoes. These fit, look, and perform better that all of them. They are not for casual use as the little rubber bits of skimpy and can wear out quick.
The one piece upper just is a good idea for cycling shoes as you avoid seems on the side and top of your foot that cause discomfort.
Sorry didn't see this reply in the web site transition. I love the Northwaves. No hotspots then uppers form to the feet. I bought the 44.5 and had to return them to for a 45. So you may have to go a 1/2 size up. They run a little shorter and wider that Side and really consistent to Mavic. Those are the only two shoes I have to compare. I like the shoes wrecked this summer and the first thing checked was the shoes. They were pretty scratched up so I grabbed another pair for next year I like them so much.
It is riveted in the shoe all the way through the sole. So not user replaceable.
Sure, but why not ride 25 all around? You'll love it.
I used the Conti GP4000s for years. I probably had three to four sets on a couple different sets of wheels. I loved the ride and the handling and have no complaints about the performance of the tire. They did seem to wear out rather quickly and I had one developed a bulge and another two started unraveling at the bead. I also had a flat once a month or so during the hard training months. I thought this was normal. I found myself with a set of Vitoria EVOs and later Mavic Grip Link/Powerlink combo. I found both these tires had a noticeably nicer ride and were just as fast. All three brands wear out just as fast but the what I cannot explain is that I don't have flats any longer. I am still using the same tubes I stocked up on when I rode the GP4000s and the same pressure on the same wheels. All I can blame is the tire.
I have had good luck with the Sugoi RS so why not buy the RSE... right?
Well, a lot of reasons it turns out.
1. Fit: The waist fit is the same as the RS but the legs and the cuff are so tight the my leg looks like an anaconda is wrapped around it. This will not affect everyone equally. I have a track cyclist build, 6'0", 180 lbs. If you have thin legs you will be fine.
2. Chamois burn: Really. Chamois burn, I have never ever came back from a 2.5 hour ride and had to stand on the pedals the final 5 miles in. I have used dozens of chamois in shorts ranging from $50 - $250 and never had anything rub me that raw. The chamois should form to the behind, not vice versa.
3. Colors bleed labels gone: The black material on the cuff stained the white and labels are kind of hanging off after a couple rides.
So what is right about the shorts? The material which I don't know the make of is awesome. It had good compression and kept me cool and dry on hot steamy days.
No it doesn't. Here is the deal. I had a pair of Northwave MTB shoes that were nice and wide. I picked up the Extremes and noticed they are not as wide as other Northwave shoes. They are still not as narrow as Giro and Shimano and they fit me good, hopefully after a couple weeks they will fit me even better.
The material and construction of this shoe were top notch. The sole was vary nice and the overall shoe was very light. They looked great and I was confident the shoe would have lasted many years.
The problem for me was two-fold. First I ordered several sizes and couldn't find the size that would fit my volume that wasn't too long in the toe box. Here is the thing, the Shimano shoes fit narrower than other shoes I have tried (Northwave, Mavic, Specialized, even Sidi) and lower volume than all but Giro. The tow box is relatively long for the width. Once I found the right size for my foot the toe box had way too much extra room. This caused my little to to rub o the shoe right were the mesh meets the stiffer material from the strap. It created a bunch of friction on the top of my little toe that made these a no go.
If you have a lower volume foot or longer toes I think the Shimano or Giro are the best match. I eventually found the Northwave Extreme with the high volume insole (they come with a slim fit insole as well) were the best match for me.
This is one of the shoes that started the lightweight revolution. I still own this shoe which I have owned since 2008. They still look great and fit great. The uppers are one peiece and only have a seem on portion of the foot opposite the straps. This babies are still so light. This shoe was ahead of its time and is now sold under the Mavic Zxellium Ultimate Shoe line. The Adidas version had a great material on the upper that had stainless-like thread; this material held up forever and breathed like no other. It was also a killer in the looks dept. The fatal flaw of this shoe was the shoe. It was light and stiff but the anti-slip pads were glued on and fell off, and if you did any walking in this shoe the carbon sole would crack by the toes. It took 4 years for this to occur to me but it sucked when it happened. I have owned several brands since and none are quite the same as the Adistar Ultra SL
It a fact fact once you use a repair stand it is hard to use the old flip the bike over method to clean and work on your bikes. After borrowing my brothers Park PRS-25 stand over the winter I knew I needed one of my own.
I really liked the Park stand and had no complaints about it except the $300 price tag and the fact that I blew the stand over when power washing my cross bike more that once.
When I saw the Feedback Sports Pro Classic the features and the price looked competitive so I gambled and bought it. Was I in for a treat. The Pro Classic stand is super light, 11 pounds on my scale. It folds down way smaller than the park too.
One thing I love about the stand is that it is solid as hell. The three legs are ideal compared to two because I provides a huge surface that stays upright and handles uneven surfaces well. The legs can be folder out all the way for a wide base for bottom bracket of heavy bikes our can be left only partially open if you need the space to maneuver around, like in a cyclocross pit.
The method jaws are convenient and secure, but work best on seatpost and round tubes. Aero posts and frame tubes are a bit funky to work with. THis is one place the PRS-25 has an advantage. The jaws on the park are super quick to engage and disengage on various tube shapes. Taking the bike off the stand is a little slower on this stand also. The step up feedback pro elite stand has a push button release which would be nice if you are constantly taking bikes on and off the stand.
Overall I am happy I tried the Feedback Pro Classic stand and I am super impressed on the quality and functionality. It look pretty sweet as well.
It didn't say anywhere on the stand itself but on the box it says "made in taiwan".
Your preference Marco. If you are a centrury rider go with the comfort of the 25c.
I hate buying shifters because they are priced outrageously considering there isn't much to them and they are the most likely thing to break on the bike.
Even though my old SRAM shifters worked with the amazing SRAM Yaw front derailleur the new SRAM Red removed the trim position and shifts seem snappier both front and rear. +1 star there.
I do applaud the new ergonomics as I have way better brake control riding on the hoods, less shifting/braking interference, and the longer levers naturally fit you hand in the drops. +1 star there
They are also super easy to adjust to hand size and include a gel piece to transition between the bar and shifter that works real nice. +1 star
The shifters come with a set of Gore ride-on professional cables are the best available in my opinion. +1 star there
They are scary light, so light I assume if one of my kids knocks over the bike the shifter is toast. It is also concerning that the lever stick out past the bar so it would be the first thing to hit the ground. +1 star here maybe
Then there is cost; buying these Taiwan shifters at over $600 is silly high when you think you can buy a American Made Fender guitar for $900. But the price is in line with Shimano and Campy and apparently we suckers pay for it. -1 star
I am not blowing smoke with that statement. This finally puts an end to "Chain Gate" forever. My front shifts are faster and cleaner than electronic shifting. The only drawback is that this thing allows you to cross-chain so well you might break a chain if you are not paying attention cause you won't be reminded by the grinding of your front derailleur.
Don't know "Chain-Gate"? copy url: http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/chain-gate-voted-cyclingnews-biggest-moment-of-the-year
I was skeptical that these would be any better than the brakes I already had but bought them to complete my SRAM Red group.
There are some nice features that put these one step ahead of most brakesets and certainly any produced by SRAM.
1. The brakes are spring centered like a good canti-brake, which means they can't get knocked out of center and always stay centered. (See notes on cables below)
2. They are tiny
3. They have huge stopping power, but not too much.
4.Intimidates the competition because they look fast even if you are not
Notes on setup: The length of cable is super important as the brake is spring centered a too long or short of a cable will cause the brake to push one way or another. I had to start long and trim until the spring centering worked properly and perfectly. This took some time. Also, I couldn't get yokozuna reaction brake cables to work because the cable are too stiff. I wouldn't run yokozuna brake cables on anything anyways if you have the choice.
Price, I dock this one star for the silly high price. Not even the extra engineering on these can explain why they cost as much as three sets of normal calipers (SRAM Rival).
First off setting this derailleur up was a snap.
1. Set the high and low stops
2. Pull cable pretty tight and cinch the bolt
3. Dial out the barrel adjuster until shifts are snappy.
4. Go on a ride confident your shifting will be awesome.
For some reason the SRAM Red was a lot less finicky to setup than my other non-Red derailleurs. Maybe its the engineering but it might be worth spending the extra $ if you maintain your own bikes, cause working on the good stuff is easy.
Other than that this thing is light, sculpted, elegant, and my drivetrain is quieter now (must be the jockey wheels)
Minus one star for the silly price tags on this stuff, if it breaks I will have to sell my son's braces.
All that wonderfull copy let it never references what people care about. What does the wheelset weigh?
I love these cables and use them pretty much exclusively as I have tried other premium brands including (Yokozuna Reaction, Nokon, and Jagwire) and have always found something I didn't like.
the Gore cable are buttery smooth, flexible enough not to interface with spring centered brakes, and the cable last a long time with minimal stretch and no lubrication required.
Save yourself from disappointment of overpriced gimmicky cables (Yokuzuna and Nokon) and don't risk saving a few bucks. By the Gore RideOn.
Note: I hear gore will discontinue the cable systems in 2013. I hope this is an attempt to sell the division, but it appears they are still shipping them in February.