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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean

Utah, Maine, New Hampshire, VT, Sierras

Courtney's Passions

Camping
Backpacking
Trail Running
Hiking
Mountain Biking
Paddling
Ice Climbing
Alpine Skiing
Mountaineering
Sport Climbing
Alpine Touring
Yoga

Courtney's Bio

I like to Ski, but I can get distracted with Ice and Alpine climbing. Especially in the Northeast where scratchy snow skiing can get a little uninspired during the frost/freeze cycles. I'll do just about anything fun in the summer, but always try to find an opportunity to climb and camp. Gear is expensive and even more so when it doesn't get used.

Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on April 15, 2014

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Holy cow! this is a big bottle of rope wash! If i recall correctly, this bottle is about 28 oz (about the size of a siracha bottle). You only need 75 ml per wash. Granted, two washes of a rope might be better than one, but you're still going to have this bottle for many, many ropes.

It's unscented and not too powerful. It does shake up the dust and give your rope a chance to look prety close to new again. I used it in a front load washer (rather than the brush and tub) and it didn't quite get some old stains out of the sheath. My rope does look cleaner and i can flake it out without coating my hands in filth. That's pretty much what i wanted - something that will break up the dirt that gets among the fibers and break down a rope faster).

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on April 15, 2014

5 5

Unfortunately, I didn't manage to get this until the ice all fell. I hoped to get one day out with the hammer installed, but it didn't happen. so treat this review with that caveat.
I wanted a mini on my nomics for clearing ice around a screw hanger. I've bashed at the ice with the pick and mistakenly with the head (no no) and feel that a small hammer is the way to go.
Installed, the mini has a tiny profile. it doesn't stick out much at all. It doesn't weigh hardly anything (about .7 oz). I couldn't tell one tool from the next with my eyes closed.

I have a rod in my basement for dry tooling and a few actions left me feeling confident that i cannot tell the difference between the two tools (one with, one without the mini).
But I did not get to swing my tools into ice. i cannot vouch for any differences the mini martel will make on ice.

i'll let next season dictate whether or not the hammer changes the head weight enough to complain. If i decide that both tools perform equally well, i'll consider getting a second just to eliminate the frustrations of having to swap tools in the middle of setting a screw.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on March 23, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I managed to acquire four of these and they've been the best asset this winter. They're light and the screw lock action is clean. I've set dozens of anchors with a few of these on my rack.

They're smaller than other lockers so not ideal for belay device but they're perfect for anchors.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on March 17, 2014

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

These are wicked light. They are just large enough for me to fit rope through with my big mits. But they are not hooded. There is a clear hook that'll catch dyneema or nylon slings.

I tested them the day after I got them and found i could hook a sling very easily, every time.

Still these are wicked light and great upgrades from my last draws.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote an answer about on March 8, 2014

There is a persisting belief that the dynafit binding is great for the uphill but just a bit weak for the downhill. Well tell that to Eric Horjliefson. Before he co-created the Beast, he was bombing big mountain lines with Dynafit FT12s. Didn't hurt him any, so why should we mere mortals be concerned? I've been riding on dynafits inbounds, outbounds, resort bumps, etc. and never had a problem. Ski them, trust them.

Also, they're far better for the up. Far, far better.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on January 31, 2014

Wife loved them
5 5

Familiarity: I gave it as a gift, but have feedback to share
Fit: True to size

These pants fit well and were very versatile. They're large enough for her to wear leggings underneath and the convertible trousers allowed her to cool off in the midday sun. They shed water fairly well (vs. cotton) so a little bit of moisture didn't require a shell right away.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on January 30, 2014

Delicious
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

though more expensive than gummy bears or swedish fish, they're tasty and one of my favorite treats in the backcountry. I can work through a single pack over the course of a mile or two, just eating one blok at a time. Be sure to drink water with them/in between bloks as they are high in sugar and will rot your gut and can lead to a spike and crash.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on January 27, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I had success with this product. It made a standard down puffy pretty water proof. Saved a few sleeping bags that were exposed to frost that subsequently melted. It has worked flawlessly on all without any negative results.
It's not a long term fix, though. I found it to be incredibly effective the first time my puffy got wet, but it's since been a little less effective each time. I have yet to get the jacket so wet that the down clumps in useless, soggy freeze spots, but i suspect without a treatment soon, the jacket will beccome a sponge.

Just like you should wash your gear regularly, you should treat your down jacket with this regularly.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on January 27, 2014

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I live in my Rab down jacket and it can get pretty used before i clean it. because i want it to last, I trust the nikwax down wash. it's probably not essential, but i want to know that my down jacket is going to keep me from freezing to death in a bad situation.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on January 20, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: Runs large

the price is steep. but these pants are so bomber. Bug proof, breatable, stretchy and durable. I would fill my closet with these if my wallet were thick enough.

There's no excess material to manage. The material is strechy so the pants move with you, allowing for a streamlined, athletic cut. That makes these pants passable in many locations from the crag to the (Casual) dining atmosphere (my wife is not sold on this...yet).

The cut is also FINALLY long enough. with a 35" inseem, these work perfectly for taller customers. I am sure that Prana and Mountain Hardwear make great pants. I've heard they do. But they don't sell pants with inseems greater than 32, so I am out of luck.
I had hesitations about getting the 13/14 model Rampart. I loved the past design and hear the changes weren't so desirable. Wearing them now, and I am pretty happy with the cut and the pocket orientation. I will add that i did opt for the smaller waste size and can vouch for a bit of generosity there. I'd argue it's less than 2 inches, but sizing down is recommended.

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Courtney Dean

Courtney Dean wrote a review of on January 17, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

But it's pretty rad for skis. The dust and lint free fiberlene is the best last step before waxing. I like to brush and wash and fibertex my skis before waxing. All of that breaks down the existing wax and any dirt or other undesirable object that gets onto/into your bases.
The fiberlene is a great way to give your skis a final wipe to pick up or push off any remaining debris.

Swix supplies the buyer with a hefty roll. It doesn't take more than a foot or two to get the job done. So one roll usually means a lot of succsssful cleanings and waxing. This is one of those products that doesn't really have an "off brand" or "generic" brand equivalent and that is fine. I'm pleased to send my money to Swix for this product.

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