ClimberRob

ClimberRob

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Robert's Passions

Camping
Sport Climbing

Robert's Bio

ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on April 8, 2014

2 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

I have owned many, many pairs of climbing shoes over the years, and these are my absolute favorite for anything past vertical. Great, snug fit, all the way through the heel, and just enough volume in the toe box. Very nice downturn with enough flexibility for slabby topouts.

Unfortunately, my last pair started delaminating all over both shoes. The rand just started pulling off of the leather. I sent them to Five Ten, and they refused to warranty the shoes, despite the fact that the failure was obviously a defect in materials and/or workmanship. I don't know if their quality control has just gone downhill, or if it's a fluke, but $165 is a lot of money to spend on any shoe, especially a defective pair of climbing shoes. I've owned over 50 pairs of Five Ten climbing shoes over the years, and this is the first pair that has ever failed like this. I haven't decided yet if I'll give these shoes another shot, or move on to another company that hopefully has better QC and stand behind their product.

Five stars for the shoes, if they don't fall apart, one star for my last pair, and an F for Five Ten customer service.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on September 22, 2012

3 5

I just bought a couple pairs of these for my wife. The fabric and construction are great. They are pretty tall in the waist/rise, even if intended to be worn as shorts, so keep that in mind if you are not very tall. According to the size chart, the XS should have been a little bit small for my wife, and she typically fits perfectly in XS. Unfortunately, they are at least a size too big, maybe closer to two. Bummer. This sizing trait seems to be becoming more common as many clothing companies try to make people feel good about fitting into a smaller size.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on April 27, 2012

3 5

I've had a couple of Norrona fleece jackets now. At first, I really liked them, as the cut through the body and shoulders is fantastic for a tall, athletic build. However, the more time I've spent in them, the more annoying the cuffs, or lack of cuffs, has become. They don't layer well, and always feel big and bulky in that area. If these jackets had more of a "standard" elastic-type of cuff, they would be great! As it is, I'll be returning mine.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on July 13, 2010

3 5

These would easily be my favorite pants if Patagonia would fix the horrible sizing problems. Most Patagonia clothing fits me great; I typically wear Medium pants and Large tops. As the other reviewers have said, the length is a bit short to begin with, then shrinks more than I've ever seen a pair of pants shrink after you wash them. My first pair was a medium, and they ended up shrinking 4" after several washes! Like another reviewer, I ended up with a Large, which is just barely long enough, but way too big in the waist. Patagonia: PLEASE FIX THE SIZING ISSUES! I could easily handle 4-5" added to the inseam length, and I'll personally buy several pairs!

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on July 13, 2010

5 5

Love this fleece. The cut is slim and athletic. I am 6'4", 170lbs, athletic build (broad shoulder and chest, thin stomach and waist), and the Large is perfect. Great in the chest and just enough room in the waist for another thin layer underneath. The fleece is Polartec Thermal Pro, which I find to provide excellent warmth and breathability. Sometimes the wrist/hand warmer extensions can get in the way, but not often. They can easily be tucked back out of the way, and are great to have when it's really cold.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on July 11, 2010

4 5

This is a great all-around harness, but especially excels for me when I'm racking trad gear and doing multi-pitch climbs. Very comfortable and the gear loops are the best I've used, though I wouldn't mind if they were a bit bigger. Only reason I didn't give it 5 stars is that I can't, for the life of me, figure out why Black Diamond doesn't bar-tack their belay loops all the way through. I know that they are designed and tested as they are built, but it is the only part of this harness that doesn't inspire confidence.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on July 11, 2010

4 5

Overall, this is a good harness, however, the sizing is a bit off for me. My old Petzl harnesses, in size Medium, fit me perfectly. The Sama still fits good in the legs, but I can't get the waist quite tight enough to be comfortable when I'm racking trad gear on it. I'm also not a big fan of the gear loop design. I much prefer the semi-molded gear loops of the Black Diamond Chaos, which I use most of the time. For really hot sport-climbing days, the Sama is a great choice, if it fits your waist. If you're looking for a trad harness and/or spend a lot of time at hanging belays, check out the BD Chaos.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on May 31, 2010

3 5

This is a good all-around locking 'biner. Nice size for most uses, well-designed keylock. The sleeve can get a bit sticky if you crank it down too hard, but I haven't had it seize up. No safety marking on the gate to tell at a glance that it is locked. Not bad, but I'll probably stick with BD mini-pears or Petzl Attaches next time.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on April 26, 2010

4 5

The Inferno is one of my favorite wire-gate carabiners. This quickdraw would be great, but, unfortunately, is missing two important features. 1- The 'biners need to be different colors to quickly differentiate between the two ends. 2- It needs a sewn-in rubber retainer for the rope end to keep that 'biner from turning in the sling. At the price-point, I think both of these things are reasonable. Until those improvements are made, I think Wild Country or Black Diamond are the way to go.EDIT: I noticed that Metolius does offer a dual-colored Inferno draw, and I would recommend that Backcountry starts carrying that one. I guess my only real gripe is the lack of rubber retainer on the rope-end.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on April 23, 2010

4 5

The hand of this rope is great. It knots easily and securely and is soft and supple without feeling limp in your hand while clipping. It feels a bit slippery when brand new, but quickly breaks into a great feel. The only downside is the durability. The sheath starts to fray very quickly and the rope seems to attract dirt more than others, even with the Dry coating. Overall, a great all-around rope, but keep it in a rope bag and leave it at home when toproping.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on April 23, 2010

4 5

This is a very comfortable harness. The only downside is the gear loops. They are floppy and soft and, in my opinion, a step backwards from the older rigid Petzl loops. I understand why they changed them, but my older harnesses with rigid loops never bothered me and made it much easier to clip and unclip. If Petzl went back to rigid (and oversized) loops, I would give it 5-stars. Otherwise, very comfortable and light, and the tie-in points are bomber.

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ClimberRob

ClimberRob wrote a review of on April 21, 2010

3 5

This jacket has everything I want except length. If you're short, you'll be hard-pressed to find a better softshell for the money. At 6'3", the jacket barely touches the top of my pants when I'm standing still. Bummer, as it's an otherwise great design. If the body length was similar to their other softshells, it would be nearly perfect.

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