Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor

Oregon primarily with yearly stays in Washington, California, and Nevada.

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Andrew's Passions

Sport Climbing

Andrew's Bio

Climber, but I dabble in just about everything.

Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on November 28, 2008

5 5

Patagonia has changed the design of this jacket over the years, but the core features have always stayed in place. It is my favorite softshell, and I've owned a few. It has everything I need: tough construction, waterproof features (including zippers), the right number of pockets, and the right amount of insulation vs breathe-ability. Works well on its own, and also works with other layers. Fantastic jacket.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on November 28, 2008

5 5

Great jacket! As said above, the fit is a little weird. I'm 6' and 160 lbs, and a small fits me best. If you want a lot of layers under it, or if you want to create dead air space, then a medium would work. If fact, I'm a small in most Patagonia jackets. Once you get it fit correctly, this thing is the shit. Super warm, nice features, excellent zippers, packs down small, and water resistant finish to boot! One of the best jackets I've ever owned.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote an answer about on September 22, 2008

If you don't want to spend the cash check out BD's other smaller pads like the Impact. That's what I have and I love it. Also, look at Metolius pads like the Cheap Bastard and Fat Bastard. However, if you see yourself bouldering much in the future, buy this pad. It's fantastic. Especially, if you're only going to have one pad, get this thing. It's huge, thick, and burly.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on September 16, 2008

5 5

I own and/or have used almost every belay/repel device available. Everything from 8s, stich-plates, Kong Gi Gi, Grigris, Cinches, Jaws, B52s, almost every incarnation of ATCs and Reversos, etc. If I was forced to pick one device to use for the rest of my life, this would be it. It doesn't do EVERYTHING but it does do many things better than any other device I've seen. Petzl took BD's ATC Guide made it lighter, rotated the Guide Mode attachment point, and enlarged the quick release hole so that a standard 'biner fits through it. In my opinion, this is the best tube-style device on the market.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on September 16, 2008

5 5

I own and/or have used almost every belay/repel device available. Everything from 8s, stich-plates, Kong Gi Gi, Grigris, Cinches, Jaws, B52s, almost every incarnation of ATCs and Reversos, etc. If I was forced to pick one device to use for the rest of my life, this would be it. It doesn't do EVERYTHING but it does do many things better than any other device I've seen. However, Petzl's new Reverso 3 may change my opinion. It is almost an identical device with a few small changes. Time will tell.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on September 16, 2008

5 5

This bag provides just what its supposed to: A simple, clean, and functional place to store my cord. I cinch it up with the solid tightening straps and throw it in my crag pack or haul bag if I have a load of gear. If I'm just out for some casual sport climbing, the Ropemaster has enough room for me to throw the draws and harness in the bag and carry it over the shoulder. If you plan on using this for your only crag bag, I'd suggest moving a step up to the Roperanger and get two backpack type shoulder straps and an extra pocket for your keys, wallet, etc. I've have mine for three years now, and aside from a little dust it still looks brand new.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on September 16, 2008

5 5

Like everyone else has said, these buggers are awesome. Amazingly solid construction, assembled in the USA, and now lighter than ever. I've found the sizes up to 6 (green) to be the best for my rack. These things are fantastic (I think the best on the market currently) for small stuff. I always find myself using the 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Get yourself a set!

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on September 16, 2008

5 5

These bags are great. I have the Half Dome version and after two shorter walls (2 and 3 days) it has shown a little wear on the nylon straps and hauling points but that is to be expected with any bag. The durathane is SO SOLID. It'll scratch but you'll be hard pressed to ever puncture or tear it. It's plenty roomy, has nice little extras like the zipper pouch, gear loops on the inside, and the drain hole in the bottom which make life so much easier on the wall. The other bags are similar with different bells and whistles depending on the size. Excellent bags.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on September 16, 2008

5 5

This bag is great. After two shorter walls (2 and 3 days) it has shown a little wear on the nylon straps and hauling points but that is to be expected with any bag. The durathane is SO SOLID. It'll scratch but you'll be hard pressed to puncture or tear it. It's plenty roomy, has nice little extras like the zipper pouch, gear loops on the inside, and the drain hole in the bottom which make life so much easier on the wall. Excellent bag.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote an answer about on September 13, 2008

1)Call Gregory and see what they can do for you. They may have you send it in and replace the zipper for a nominal fee. I've had great experiences with their costumer service in the past.2)Take it in to a local gear shop. Ask if they have a seamstress (or know of one) that will do custom jobs.3)Buy a new pack! Buying new stuff is always fun!

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote an answer about on September 9, 2008

I've climbed in them and I think the Prisms are fine smearers. However, bear in mind that this shoe is designed (and marketed) for its edging prowess. The day you get them out of the box, you might be disappointed in their smearing ability, but they'll only get better from here on out. In my experience, the more worn the shoe, the better the smearing, YMMV.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote an answer about on August 25, 2008

I use a grigri primarily for sport belaying for the same advantages you get when top-rope belaying: If the climber is going to spend large amounts of time hanging on the rope, it makes the belayers job SO MUCH easier. I usually don't use a grigri when belaying trad because the device will lock up immediately in the event of a fall, creating a less dynamic belay (dynamic belays are a good thing, especially when climbing trad when gear may be suspect). I'll usually use a ATC when belaying trad. The grigri is a excellent piece of equipment and wonderful tool when used properly.

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Andrew Traylor

Andrew Traylor wrote a review of on March 23, 2007

5 5

This chalkbag is not just another chalkbag. For one, it comes in SWEET colors and patterns, For two, it says "Metolius" on it so you can look like a real pro while you're in the gym with all your name-brand gear.

Honestly, I've had it for a year now, and shows little signs of wear, and it does its job. That's all I want out of a chalkbag.

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