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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle

Kyrgyzstan

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Amadeus DeKastle's Passions

Trad Climbing
Camping
Hiking
Ice Climbing
Mountaineering
Sport Climbing
Bouldering

Amadeus DeKastle's Bio

I live and play in Kyrgyzstan, that small Central Asian country that nobody can spell! Kyrgyzstan is 90% mountainous and as such is a great place for any sport involving mountains. I love Climbing of any kind. Ice, rock, bouldering, alpine, even just a good long hike.

Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on January 5, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

The first impression I had when I racked theses screws up to my harness was, "wow, I don't need to have these AND a quickdraw..." These cut down on weight very quickly due to that. Plus the can clip directly to your gear loop saving you (in my opinion) the awkwardness of the plastic racking biner. I can easily line these up in order of length on my gear loops and not have to fumble through the screws on the plastic biner.

Another great thing about these is how fast they go in. When following my friend, who has BD turbo express screws, I often forget to give him all of them back when switching leads. So occasionally I use the BD turbo express screws. Before I got the Radion screws I thought the BDs were fast. The Radion is easily way faster. Plus you have the added benefit of being able to clip your rope before getting the screw all the way in (probably only beneficial psychologically, but I'll keep doing it anyways!).

Now the minuses...and yes there are a couple.
-There is only one option for draw length on these screws, however, another review mentioned that you would have to clip a quickdraw directly to the carabiner to lengthen the draw...there is plenty of space within the draw attachment point to accomidate another biner (for a quickdraw), so this is not THAT big of a deal.
- The turn handle does not fold down. This can occasionally allow the rope that you are pulling up behind you to unscrew the screw a little bit. Again, nothing too major, but it is something.

Ok, so I've used lots of different screws: Older Chouinards, Nasty old Soviet things, Smileys, BD turbos, BD turbo express, and now these. I can easily and honestly say that there is no such thing as a perfect ice screw, but these come as close to perfect as any I have used.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on October 29, 2013

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This bag is great at what it does, but one issue that happened is that where the strap is sewed to the top lid, the fabric ripped already. This happened on the first use! Not full quality like you would expect from Outdoor Research gear. Still using it, but disappointed.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 31, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Not only will a pelican case keep your gear dry, it will also keep it from getting damaged from impacts (if you packed your stuff in there correctly). I've had my 1050 for years and have always used while kayaking or rafting. Right now it is out on loan with a group trekking to the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan. Roof of the world!

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 31, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I first bought my current Nalgene when I was a whitewater guide and needed something that could get clipped into rigging of the boat and get banged around without any problems. Since then, stickers have come and gone from my nalgene multiple times over, but that thing is just indestructible. I don't go on a trip without it.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 31, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Just got these in the mail and am super psyched to get them out to the high alpine snow. I've been looking for some split gloves/mitts that were versatile yet sturdy and I think I found the right pair. The wrist cinches are great and there are even little plastic bits in the cuffs to keep them from bunching up around your wrists. Its the little things that make a good overall design. I'm only giving it 4 stars at this point because I can't testify to how warm these are in the -30 C winters we get here in Kyrgyzstan.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 4, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These cameras take all sorts of abuse from al sorts of crazy people. Mine has snaked its way up waterfall ice on an amazing trip, recorded birthday fun at restaurants, and take great pictures in any weather. This is a very popular camera because it really record anywhere you are doing anything. Glad I bought this camera!

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 3, 2013

3 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I bought these for sending some of my harder projects, even tried them on at a store before buying, but I just couldn't get over the pain from the down-turned toe. I sold them to a friend of mine who absolutely loves them though (even though he complains all the time about how much they hurt.) I guess there is a price to pay for sending the big numbers.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 3, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I bought these for our local climbing gym in Kyrgyzstan. Up until that time, they had never had holds that small. We immediately had diabolical crimper routes all over the place. Don't buy these if you are looking for massive jugs. These are for the tougher guys (and gals).

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 3, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I've had this pulling bumping around on my gear rack for a while now and had never used it. Ever. Until this winter during a waterfall ice climb where one of the guys in our group couldn't get to the top of the second waterfall (60m+ vertical) and where we still had further to go on our hike to get to "The Big One". We couldn't just leave him to sit at the bottom of the waterfall for 6 hours, so we got out all our pulleys and a Petzl tibloc and made a Z drag to pull him up all 60 meters. This thing worked perfectly and we were super glad to have the pulleys to help us out. When you need this pulley, you are very grateful that you have it.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 3, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I bought the year they started selling it and have basically forsaken all other belay devices on my rack. My ATC is in the bottom of my storage box, and my 8 is...hmm, no idea where that is now. But it doesn't matter, because the Mammut Smart is the best single rope belay device you can use. Auto locking when your leader takes a fall, no moving parts to get damaged, fits a wide variety of ropes, is SUPER easy to use, and isn't made in China, this thing is awesome. The only thing better is the Mammut Alpine Smart for double ropes.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 3, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I had always used the older style daisy chains and honestly thought that they were safer than the PAS, until I did a bit of research. The PAS is fully rated at 22kN on every single loop whereas the older style daisy chains are not. I started thinking of all the times I had clipped in on my old daisy chain in ways that I now realize were stupidly unsafe. So I bought the PAS and have never had to question my safety again. Loop it straight into your belay loop and use it to clip into your anchors at the top of a climb or at a belay station. Its a great pice of gear.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 3, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've use both the Gri Gri and the cinch and would take the Cinch over the Gri Gri any day. I'm not really sure why the Cinch isn't more popular, but it is probably all because everyone wants to buy Petzl stuff and they just haven't heard about the Cinch. This thing is great. It takes a couple minutes to figure out how to use it smoothly, but for beginners I give them this instead of an ATC every time. Auto locking with nothing to hurt the rope, its just a great piece of gear that will make taking out new climbers a lot less of a headache.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 3, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

If you are like me and desperately want to do some leashless climbing, but are still weak like a little girl (no offense ladies...) then these are for you. I used to use the type of leash that would snug around your wrist and tie in to the head of your tool. Every time you wanted to put in a tool you would either have to have it dangling around your waist, flopping around as you try desperately to put in a screw, OR, you would have to sink your tool really well ( or put it over your shoulder) and slide your big fat gloves out of your leash before getting a screw in. That was all just honestly annoying, time consuming, and silly. My friend got a new set vipers and I tried them out once and was like, "what the junk am I doing with these dumb old leashes? Androids are bomber!" So I bought these and have never been happier with my leashes. Easy on, easy off, these things work just like you want them to. It is almost as if you were climbing leashless, but you aren't so you are still a weakling...

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote an answer about on August 3, 2013

Pros: They adjust well on your wrist, stay tight when you need them to, and loosen up quickly if needed as well. You can unclip super fast to put in a screw or mess around with all the sharp junk hanging from your harness. Clipping back on is super easy. They are very strong and you technically could (although I don't recommend this) hang by just these leashes.

Cons: Umm...not cheap enough? No, but honestly, after using regular leashes and android leashes, I have nothing bad to say about these.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote an answer about on August 3, 2013

Yes these are not the android leashes specially designed for the vipers. The have a webbing piece that attaches to the head of your tool and is then clamped down on the shaft (like where the androids for the vipers get screwed onto the shaft). Another words, these work with all tools, not just vipers.

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Amadeus DeKastle

Amadeus DeKastle wrote a review of on August 3, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Leashless!? Well I already know you are a little bit crazy if you are an ice climber anyways. Take your game up a notch and get these trigger rests for your older tools so you can try some leashless climbing. Or if you are more like me, keep the leashes on, but use this as an extra grip every now and then. These are great and I love having them on my older grivel tech wings.

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