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Description

See the difference that keylock gates make by racking up for your next climb with the Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw.

The Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw uses notchless keylock gates on both carabiners to make clipping both the bolt and the rope incredibly easy and fast. The bent-gate, rope-end carabiner has a large 20mm opening to allow fast clips from desperate stances. The keylock gates on the Petzl Express Quickdraw also make it a cinch to clean your overhanging project after you send.

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Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Never a better sport-draw

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The Petzl Spirit draws are definitely my favorite sport-draw out there right now. The Spirit Express draws are the latest iteration of the legendary Spirit draws, which have long been an industry standard in sport climbing. The curved bottom rope-carabiner combined with the ultra-stiff dog bone makes for extremely easy clipped, especially compared to straight carabiners or flimsy dogbones. The stiff dog bone also keeps the draw in place on windy days so you don?t have to try and clip a moving target when your pumped. The thick dog bones are also really durable, and inspire confidence when the draws begin to age.

5 5

Rolls Royce Of Draws

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

They speak for themselves. Best draws on the market. I've been using them exclusively since the early nineties, and I have no intention of changing.

5 5

Great draw!

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

By far the stiffest draw I have used. Its great for many uses.

5 5

Tough and Well Designed

This was my first set of quickdraws to buy, but I also have a few BD HoodWires. I went half and half 12cm and 17cm of these draws. Purchased mainly due to overwhelmingly positive reviews on BC and everywhere else. The nylon dogbone is VERY sturdy. These definitely don't rotate much under the weight of the rope or when trying to clove hitch as my BD HoodWire and their dyneema dogbones do. Picture demonstrates holding the 12cm quickdraw horizontally (straight out of the packaging, they might not be this rigid after considerable use).
Clipping is easy and the snappiness of the gates give a sense of high quality craftsmanship. Confidence inspiring .

Tough and Well Designed
Responded on

hey man,
if You had to buy them today again, what lengths of those quickdraws would You choose? I'm debating on how many 12 and 17 cm should I buy for a 12 pieces set.
thanks
Mike

Responded on

I would probably go with the same, just for equal weight savings and versatility. If you don't care about weight savings, maybe 8 17s and 4 12s?

Responded on

Thanks!
I need them only for sport routes so I don't care that much for weight. I have different, lightweight wire biners for multipitch trad routes. So, as You said, I'll go with 8x17s and 4x12s. Not all of the sport routes in my area have completely straight lines so a little more of the longer ones should be a fine choice.

5 5

Quick and Efficient

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This draw is a must have for any serious sport climber. Clipping on this draw is incredibly easy when sending a tough route. Not only is the clipping easy, but the durability of this draw is seemingly lifelong. I always make sure to have these with me when climbing hard sport routes.

5 5

#1 draws

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These are my all-time favorite draws to use when sport climbing. The gates open and close so crisp and easy and the shape of the gates offer the smoothest clipping of the rope and anchors.They are the toughest draws I have,and I have 4 different types of BD ones. I love the BD Livewires, but these certainly take the cake. Hands down the best action, durability, and bang-for-your buck draws. It pays to spend a little extra on a dozen of these guys. It is nice that there are two size options as well. As for weight, Petzl has the lighter Finesse draws out, as well as other companies selling nice light draws. However I'll keep my peace of mind knowing I'm trusting my life to tried-and true, time tested Petzl Spirit draws.

White Horse Ledge

White Horse Ledge

Posted on

Responded on

Hey Greg was this by any chance taken in North Carolina?

5 5

They did it right

When Petzl took the Spirt off the market I know that there were a lot of people that were concerned on what they would come up with. Then they made the Finesse and it was good. But the more people used them they started to realize that they didn't like the new draws that Petzl had come up with. The best thing that Petzl could have done in the situation they put themselves in they did. In the situation of carabiners and quickdraws some times new and light doesn't beat old and heavy and I can agree. These are just as good as the old ones if not better. The rope end carabiner works so well and the action is superb. All around possibly best draw on the market. Well done Petzl.

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Posted on

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Responded on

I assume this was your top-rope anchor since no draws are clipped below you. If this is the case then shame on the leader! It's considerably safer to rig the bottom carabiners with the gates facing away from each other. If they are facing the same way they can both be inadvertently opened and the rope can fall out. Also consider clipping directly to the bolts to take the metal links out of the equation. I have two shoulder length slings with old-ish carabiners that I like to use for anchors. That way I don't wear out the nice draws top roping. Check out The Mountaineers Freedom of the Hills for more information about building bomber anchors and everything climbing related. Be safe out there.

Responded on

I agree with you both entirely. Another thing to consider is using LOCKING biners for the top rope. This looks scary. I don't recommend it.

5 5

Best when weight isn't a concern

As long as you aren't trying to onsite 14's while hanging your own draws these things are great. They always clip smoothly, and the thick webbing gives me a little more confidence when taking big whips. (I know thats ridiculous, but sometimes the difference between falling and sending is that mental edge.) The difference in weight with 16 of these on your harness as opposed to some lighter weight draws is noticeable but I think its worth it.

What is the strenth or what is KN mean...

Posted on

What is the strenth or what is KN mean ?

Responded on

It is a way to know the strength it can thake...
22kn= +-2200kg

Responded on

22kn equals approximately 5000lbs. Kn is a measure of dynamic force vs. a static load. For comparison the worst rock climbing falls rarely ever generate more than 10kn for an average sized person and a normal fall generally doesn't generate more than ~3kn.

Responded on

kN isn't a measure of dynamic or static loads, it's simply a measure of force, just like lbs. There is no differentiation in dynamic or static loads from a units point of view, but rather the magnitude of the force is different. For example, a static load of a climber 150 lb (667N = 0.667kN), whereas if the same climber falls a short distance, he may exert a dynamic load of 500 lb (2224N = 2.224kN). kN is simply the metric unit of force equivalent to the lb, and makes no differentiation between dynamic and static loads.

5 5

They clip like new after 5 years

Biners are biners, right? I would have said so a few years ago. But my Petzl biners have held up much better than others from black diamond, camp, and wild country. The gate on one of my BD's sticks open. My camps have rope grooves from being demoted to anchor duty. But my petzls feel and look brand new.

I also like that the nylon dogbone on this draw is burly enough to leave it up on a route for a few weeks without the UV rays & rain degrading its strength. I'm sure it's all in my head, but I try to avoid leaving my BDs / wild countrys with their dyneema dogbones in the sun for days.

Pros: I like the longevity, the clipping action, and the durability of the dogbone
Cons: heavier and bulkier, 2x more expensive
Best uses: sport climbing
Don't use this for: trad, or if you're counting ounces

If you're just building a rack, I'd recommend five of the 17 cm variety. Longer draws = less rope drag. The short ones are only good if the bolts are in a straight line, and those climbs are never that fun anyway. If you get five draws, and your buddy has five, you should be set for most stuff. You can always salvage draws from the middle of the climb to finish putting the rope up if you run short.

View all contributions... Be patient, it might take a while.