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Meet the new standard.

Not only does the Petzl Reverso 4 Belay and Rappel Device give you serious stopping power when you're holding massive whippers, but it also functions as an auto-locking device when you're belaying the following climber directly off the anchor. This allows you to re-rack, tie your shoes, sip some water, and take a few photos without risking your climbing partner's life. Belaying two followers at once? No problem. Rappelling 15 pitches? The deep grooves give you plenty of control. Petzl also added a secondary clip-in point to help you release a locked rope if you need to lower a follower who has fallen.

  • Can be used to belay the leader or one or two following climbers; can be used for rappelling
  • Functions as a self-locking device when belaying off the anchor
  • Trimmed-down design shaves weight well below the previous versions
  • Deep V-notches add plenty of friction and increase control for long rappels
  • Secondary clip-in point to help in releasing a locked rope
  • Works on single ropes down to 8.9mm
  • Effective braking on half and twin ropes of 7.5mm or more

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Review Summary
14 4
5 3
3 2
0 1

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Petzl Reverso 4 Belay and Rappel Device

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Does it all

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I've had several of these over the years, and recently purchased the Reverso 4 because I gave my old one away. I guess the new design is cool, but it really isn't much different from its predecessors. It does feel marginally lighter than the last version, but it doesn't make much of a difference to me.

Comparing the Reverso to the Guide seems to be the better distinction. I have, and still do, prefer the Reverso to the Guide. You couldn't go wrong going either way!

4 5

Lightweight, Initially impressed

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

So far only used at the gym. I love the lightness and strength of this capable belay. I paired it with a DMM Sentinel (also lightweight) and enjoy how well it works with different thicknesses of the gym ropes. Excited to try this one out on the real rocks. I would go 5 stars if it works well on the big routes.

5 5

Versatile and light, awesome device.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have both the Reverso 4 and the BD Guide. I love both of these belay devices and regularly switch from one to the other depending on my preference while I am gearing up. I prefer the Reverso because it feeds slightly smoother than the Guide. The auto lock set up is super convenient and I like that it orients in the direction of the biner instead of perpendicular to it. It also rappels smoothly but I think the Guide is a little more accommodating of larger ropes.

You can't go wrong with either device, but the Reverso is definitely a little more buttery on the feed. It also handles skinny ropes a little better.

5 5

ould recomen it to anyone

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

i own the 3 version of ti and is great.
if you are considering in buying yout first belay device, nuy this one or the BD ATC, youll regret later if you bought one that cant be use on multipithc touts to belay the second.
happened to me.

5 5

great for multi pitch climbs

the auto lock feature is pretty cool, it handles rappels nicely, just make sure you get somebody to show you how to use it before you decide to through down so multi pitch routes with it if you've never done them before.

5 5

Love it

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is my personal favorite. it handles an feeds very well and catches a fall very easily. I have used it once and guide mode and had no complaints. It also is very good for rappelling. I use the gridlock with it and it looks very stylish and its an effective team. It is also about lightweight as any climbing gear gets. Now hurry up and get one for your self before they sell out!

Love it
Easy to use

Easy to use

Posted on

Easy to use. It is hard to work with 10.2mm rope!

4 5

Light & smartly built

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is my favorite ATC, its very light, the autolocking works perfectly and is simple to use. I like the option to belay from the anchor, pretty nice. I mainly use it with 9.8 ropes, never used it with smaller so I can't tell. With my friends 10.2mm it can get a little harder to use, but still ok.
I've been using it for a year intensively (every week-ends) and it seems to show some wear, thats why it doesnt get a 5 star.

5 5

Go-to Multi-Pitch Belay Device

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

The Reverso4 is extremely lightweight and is great for climbs involving multiple pitches. I have used this device on several ropes ranging from 9.1-10.2 and it functioned greatly. I highly recommend this to anyone in the market for a new lightweight belay device that will operate greatly on multi-pitch belays. Overall, this is my go-to device when weight and functionality are necessary.

Guide Mode

Guide Mode

Posted on

Set this up on the fireplace, figured out guide mode, climbed a 22 pitch route the next day.

5 5

Petzl reverso 4

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

First off, very very light! Belayed all day with the reverso, on a 9.5 rope, worked like a champ. We typically use BD ATC-xp, but I really came to like the ease of use with the reverso. Rappelling, we tried the reverso in both positions, has a little too much friction when using the notched side. Great heat dispersion, my BD's trend to heat up pretty good. Cons: pricy little guy. Pick up mine on sale for 25, backcountry price matched.

Petzl reverso 4
4 5

Good for modern climbers

This is a truly great device. It is incredibly smooth and is unbelievably light. The only negative thing I can say about it is it doesn't fit into the really fat ropes. It is a little to much of a lightweight device to handle the large ropes really smoothly. Other than that I love the device and after this one is wore out I'll get another.

3 5

Not the smoothest belay device

The new model 4 is super light and you have to have one if you're multi-pitch climbing or plan on rappeling. That said, it does not lower or rappel very smoothly. Not sure why, I've used it on super skinny 7.8 half ropes and 9.8 single ropes and it's still kind of jumpy. Works well enough and the light weight means I take it with me on multi-pitch, so good enough.

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