Petzl Nomic Leashless Ice Climbing Tool - 2007 BCS

I have used these tools for a few seasons now and love them. The one drawback for me, as an alpinist, is that they don't offer a hammer. I solved this by removing the Nomic head and replaced it with a Quark head, which accommodates a hammer. This process was tricky but worked and now I have an even better tool that I can pound pins with. The added weight and slight angle change helped if anything. These tools climb ice very well. I use tethers to prevent droppage. Leashless is the way to free yourself and to be way more efficient. One drawback - no spike on the bottom of the tool, which, so long as I am aware of it, has not been a problem. When mixed climbing the Nomics excel...whether matching on one tool or gripping up high, these tools love every minute of it and when you reach the ice you are NOT bumming from the "bounce you the fuck out of the ice placement you just made because the tools were engineered solely for rock climbing," which some other mixed tools give. Instead, you are laughing your way to the top of the climb...

Enjoy!

These tools are insane! They will grab the tiniest of rock features, and they place effortlessly in ice. The grip options are phenomenal--so many hand positions available. Overall, you'll fail before one of these babies lets go. I do agree with other reviewers, though: for more generic water ice, the Quarks are better, but for the steep stuff and mixed, the Nomics reign supreme. Even with the headweights removed, they still swing amazingly.

Best tool currently on the market. While I'm climbing in Switzerland now, I've spent most of my time climbing mixed and water ice in the northeast US. These tools are absolutely amazing for leading. The swing is fluid and confident. They stick on a single swing even in cold conditions. At first I was worried I would drop the damn things, but I've had cold days where I couldn't feel my fingers and bad falls where my junk got re-adjusted... I never dropped a tool. Once you switch to leashless you will wonder why you didn't make the transition earlier- switching tools and placing screws suddenly got a lot easier.

I've also climbed with BD Vipers, BD Cobras, Ergos, Ta-ka-toons, tech wings, etc... they've all got there strengths. If you want an alpine or "do everything tool" get the Vipers... if you want mixed and water ice, bite the bullet and buy the Nomics- they last forever and you won't be drooling over them after you bought some cheaper tool.

Great swing, nice weight, easily adjustable pommel size, and leashless-ness make these my new best friends. I have used these tools on steep ice and even steeper mixed routes and they don't disappoint; the angle of the pommel matches the upper shaft well enough that pick-shift is negligible and the removable weights really come in handy if you're on a tough mixed route. What a great tool!