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Description

Light feels right.

The intuitively designed Petzl Nomic Ice Tool helps you apply the dynamics of rock climbing to your ice or mixed project. An adjustable ergonomic handle accommodates multiple grips, and allows for easy switching of hands. Petzl made the Nomic with a modular head design and removable pick weights to help you achieve optimal axe balance and ice penetration. When necessary, you can equip this ice tool with a hammer. At just 605 grams, the Nomic offers a tried-and-true design and peak performance at times of vertical need.

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

The best PERIOD

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

When I started climbing steeper ice and mixed alpine routes I felt my Quarks were good but I wanted a more specific tool. I had tested the Nomic's before (first generation without metal teeth at the end) and was blown away at the ease of the throw and ability to stick on the steeps. Almost to good in the beginning as I was throwing a little to hard and getting very deep sticks. I just needed to adjust my throw and flick my wrist a little later than my Quarks. So without saying I picked up a set. Things I love about these tools are: You can adjust the handle to hand size/glove size. On technical routes where i wear thinner gloves I can adjust the grip smaller and for cold -10F days in NH I can adjust them larger to accommodate larger gloves. The spike bottom handle is more useful than I originally thought. When scrambling through rock gardens or ice covered rock traverses they proved to be much appreciated. The trigger rest is bomber and is the perfect size with perfect placement on the axe. I have never smashed my knuckles on odd angled ice. The grip tape is helpful and was happy its already on the axe vs buying it separately. It remains its grip when cold or wet, it is also helpful when doing steep snow approaches at keeping your hands a little warmer as you are not on metal. I have done a couple of long mixed routes and this axes are awesome on rock! I have placed this things in some tight cracks and probably torqued them a little more than I would have liked but never had a concern with the picks breaking or the tool itself not being able to handle it. The hole at the end and top of the axe are the perfect size and can fit locker biners easy. On a sketchy top out of a route where the ice was too aerated for a screw i plunged both of these tools in and belayed the follower up. At no point did i think these were not strong enough to hold. These are hands down the best tools on the market. I find myself using these on alpine routes more often than my new Quarks.

5 5

New favorite all-around ice/mixed tool

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I finally got my hands on a pair of Nomics this season and absolutely love them on both ice and mixed. I knew I'd like them on mixed terrain, but was pleasantly surprised with the swing and feel on ice. The added features of the new Nomics make them great for most any application. They now have tether attachments and easily accept a Quark hammer, meaning I don't hesitate to take them into the mountains. I held onto my Cobras all season but just sold them since I can't think of when I would grab them over my Nomics.

5 5

Best ice tool on the market!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've used this tool for about 6 years and it simply is the best ice tool out there. Sure, there are a lot of high end tools on the market and I have used nearly all of them. Yes, the BD cobra is awesome on ice, the Grivel Quantum is a great alpine tool, the Master Carbon is a mixed machine... However, overall when you consider ice, mixed and alpine this tool can do it all better than anything out there - in one tool! So, rather than buy 4 sets of tools buy this one and use the money you save to take a climbing trip! The only place it shows a little weakness is lower angle ice - no surprise there considering the shape and what it is designed to climb. If you climbing lends itself to easy ice climbs and more alpine focused climbing buy a set of Quarks. For the quality and versatility I don't think there you can do better then the Petzl ice tools

4 5

Great tool, superb balance

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Excellent tool for striking ice and getting a good stick. While dry tooling, I thought I'd hate them, but if you stay low and work up them, they're pretty dynamite. That being said, I love the secondary rest. I am more apt to hold the tool there, than at the original handle, which sometimes leads to some scrambling or bad sticks when i swing them at a suboptimal angle.
My major complaint is that the ergo arch in them makes climbing up the shaft difficult. Beyond the taped section, you're likely to pull the tool out. I'm finding that anything less than a reallly good stick gets considerably less secure once my hand travels up the shaft past the tape. This is unfortunate because I try to climb the tool as much as possible.
Note that in mixed climbing this is less of a problem, but in ice, it seem the pic can shear out.

4 5

Swings like a champ!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Full disclosure: I'm a total petzl-tool fanboy. I've climbed in the Ergo's, Quark's, and Nomics, and I love them all. I currently own a pair of Nomics and Quarks, and I probably put just about equal time on both sets of tools. I can't quite decide which tool I like better , but I think the Nomic is an incredible tool.

For the first time ice-tool buyer, it's important to keep in mind that most of what you'll hear from reviewers (like myself) is a combination of experience, hype, and preference. I climb with a guy who swears by his BD Vipers, but you honestly could not pay me enough to climb in them--clunky, annoying, and non-ergonomic..the petzl tools, especially with the head weights attached, are the absolute best tool in my mind for my swing style, personal preference, and climbing areas.

If you, like me, prefer a tool that is precise over heavy-handed, ergonomic over straight-shafted, keep reading. The Nomic is a great all around tool, but I find myself reaching for my Quark's on easier ice and alpine jaunts, and my Nomic's on harder ice. The tool has a great balance and flick to it, and with a little bit of detuning, the Ice picks stick super well, and clean easily too. I wish that the handle in the hole was a little lower so as to provide a clip-in point (either at anchors or for umbilicals), but I have found that I can extend that hole down a bit with a small loop of 9/16's webbing. I also like to wrap the shaft with 3M Waterproof Electrician's tape, to allow for effortless matching and choking. You'll never be plunging with these tools, so no reason to leave that shaft naked.

The ergo handle puts your wrist in a much more neutral position for steep climbing, leading to less fatigue and easier swinging--I like it a lot, but I don't care for the swing of the Nomic on easier ice--as previously mentioned, I tend to reach for my Quarks first in situations where I anticipate rampy ice.

Overall, this is a great tool! 4.5 stars!

easy terrain

easy terrain

Posted on

still working it

Responded on

Hi Dane, which leashes are you using for these tools?

same story..

same story..

Posted on

different day...easy alpine ice...this tool excels

5 5

Still the bench mark

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Still the bench mark for ice tools after almost 6 yeras now. Good for the beginner on Grade 3 ice to the best climbers around and the hardest mixed and ice routes. Ice Park or an icy Eiger this tool does it all. nay a poor copy available. This is the original and still the best.

5 5

My arm is finally complete....

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These tools are perfect. The swing, the adjustability, the geometry. Great for mixed lines but not too radical for ice. I am completely smitten by these tools and have nothing but praise for them. Super confidence inspiring on vertical ice, great purchase in hard ice. They get a bit weird to swing on the low angle stuff, but they weren't made for low angle stuff. If I could only have one ice tool forever it would be these

My arm is finally complete....
Responded on

Awesome pic Matt! Thanks for sharing!

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