Description

For the climber who demands less weight with higher performance.

The Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiner is an ultra-light compact biner that combines the fluidity of a spring gate with the lightness of a wire gate.

  • With a weight of 1oz, you can lighten your rack for big walls or alpine ascents
  • Keylock system eliminates the hook on traditional carabiners that can snag on ropes, anchors, or other climbing gear
  • H-profile shape is thicker on the inside to improve rope passage
  • Nose shape is designed to optimize clipping and un-clipping
  • Indent on bottom of the Ange L maintains sling placement to prevent slippage when you place your piece

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Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiner

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Here's what others have to say...

2 5

Go with the Black Diamond Oz

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Got this biner in the mail today and I have to say I am disappointed. I ordered it just to check it out and see how it compared to the Oz, thinking maybe it will be lighter, because it's smaller and easier to use with only a wire to worry about. The oz is the same weight and slightly bigger making it more versatile fitting over things (rings, larger bolts/anchors) and accommodating to the rope. I would like to exchange them for the Oz but it will cost too much to send them back and exchange them. Also, in addition, the Oz is cheaper!

4 5

Petzl Ange S, a good, light carabiner

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

These Petzl Carabiners are really sick! I was put off by the single wire gate design, but they are very safe and a bomber carabiner! My buddy is the owner, but we have used them on multiple big walls and routes. They are great as a loose biner for aid climbing, used on runners, and as a quickdraw. The nose is narrow, which makes cleaning while weighting a hanger a much easier task! The Ange S Ultra-Lite Wire design cut 6 grams off the Ange L Lite Wire, making it one pure ounce. This design of the Angle S has lost up to 2kN in strength and 3mm of gate opening compared to the Angle L. Here are some more detailed specs taken from Petzl's website.

Specifications
Material(s) : aluminum
Capacity: 19 mm
Certification(s) : CE EN 12275 type B, UIAA
Made in: FR
Guarantee: 3 years

Color(s): Light Gray
Reference(s): M57 G
Weight: 28 g
Major axis strength: 20 kN
Open gate strength: 9 kN
Minor axis strength: 7 kN
Gate opening: 23 mm

Color(s): Orange
Reference(s): M57 O
Weight: 28 g
Major axis strength: 20 kN
Open gate strength: 9 kN
Minor axis strength: 7 kN
Gate opening: 23 mm

Petzl Ange S, a good, light carabiner
5 5

Perfect accessory biner

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love this biner. I use it all the time for everything from clipping bottles/harnesses to my pack to clipping in to anchors while setting up rappels. It's lightweight, compact, and doesn't snag. What more do you need?

5 5

Alpine light

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

When you are hiking in for 3 hours, climbing for 9 and hiking out for 5 lightness counts. These babes are great. Easy to use once you practice, they are perfect for alpine assaults

Alpine light
Responded on

Thanks for this feedback, Greg!

This pic was selected as one of the most highly excellent community uploaded images for inclusion in the Backcountry.com Best of Climb article on our EXPLORE section:

http://www.backcountry.com/explore/you-are-backcountry-best-of-climb

Thanks and congrats!

(copy and paste this link into a new tab, for some reason the link won't work when you click on it within this comment box).

4 5

keychain anyone?

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I know these are meant for much more than just a keychain, but it's a pretty good size. I think it would be a tad small for draws for sport climbing, I use Spirits for that, but this thing is the only biner of its size without a lock that gets snagged on whatever you clip your keys to. The spring in it has surprised me, Petzl really got it right with this one. Over a year of multiple clips daily, lots of dropping, lots of lint and dirt, and it's still going strong. I'd trust climbing with it, if you can handle how small it is. Otherwise, it's a pretty accessory.

4 5

Ideal for trad or for the bolt end

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have found that the more narrow opening of the Ange S is best for clipping bolts or as a super-light weight biner on select pieces of trad gear. I would refrain from using this for an entire draw set up on both the bolt and the rope end of a dogbone. Using a little larger carabiner for the clipping end ensure that you don't miss when you're making a tough clip.
That all being said, I have small female hands and love how the Ange S fits well in them. The trigger is ridiculously smooth and quick and with the blunted nose, it will never snag.

5 5

Ange biner

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Ange S, I really like these biners, mainly using them for sport/gym climbing. Good clipping, light weight, petzl quality. Use them as quick draws too

Ange biner
5 5

best for the bolt end

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I use these exclusively for the gear end of my alpine draws. I like the Ange L for clipping the rope. Its not that you can't clip the rope in the Ange S, Its that i have big hands and don't feel like screwing around climbing at my limit. they handle well and are a breeze snake onto and off hangers and wires even on hard overhanging trad or sport. highly recommended

5 5

Love these biners!

Super light weight and clip like a dream. Win win whats not to love?

3 5

Nice, but a couple of flaws...

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Because of the biner shape, it opens further than other biners since it can travel further back towards the spine. The angle feels slightly off but it's a huge gate opening. Very nice. It is also quite compact and it would be great to use for alpine draws. But I'm glad I only bought two as a sample because...

1) This biner needs a wider spine. Because the spine is so narrow and the gate is a single wire, you essentially are balancing the biner between just two contact points when opening the gate. Whereas for a two-wire gate or a thicker spine you would have three. I find myself worrying about dropping the biner when clipping it in to things. It's not that bad and it's something you can adapt to, but it's still one more thing to worry about.

2) In addition, I found that the ball at the end of the wire tends to catch the rope when clipping. To be specific, the rope tends to catch between the back of the nose and the little ball. So you need to remember to pull on the rope a little harder, or give it an extra tug, when clipping in. Another small thing you don't want to worry about while on lead.

At $11/ea I don't think that these are for me. Maybe both of these are less of a problem with the Ange L.

[edit 11/2013] My opinion on the Ange S is unchanged. But I played around with the Ange L and found neither of these issues to be a problem. For 1), the longer spine made it feel more secure in my hand. For 2), the deeper basket allows the gate to fully open with my middle finger in it, letting me easily pull rope in with no catching, mid-clip. Given its smaller nose width, I'd say the Ange L beats out the Helium as the best carabiner out there. For people with smaller hands/fingers, the Ange S is probably great too.

These sound perfect for multi day...

These sound perfect for multi day mountaineering. Just was wondering, with how small the gate is. Has anyone tried to use this on a picket. would it fit on a standard MSR picket, or is the basket configuration and gate opening too small?

Responded on

Based on the dimensions of this and the eyes on the picket itself, it should fit the MSR pickets okay, but the gate just strikes me as much smaller than I would want to use if I was looking to easily and quickly just slam a biner into place, especially if I was gloved up.

Responded on

I've never used them on a picket, but the opening is significantly smaller than something like a WC Nitro. I'd estimate about 6mm smaller. With that said, they're still easy to operate with or without gloves. I love them.

5 5

Great Light and Strong Carabiner

The new Petzl Biners are fantastic! Petzl did their homework, as they always do, and managed to produce a carabiner worthy to follow the awesome Spirit, which set the standard for a great all around carabiner but is now way heavy compared to many lighter biners on the market. The Ange Wire Gate biners take a bit to get used to with the single wire, but with a little practice you will be clipping and unclipping with a smile on your face with these beautiful tool! The light weight is impressive as is the strength. There is nothing like a keylock to eliminate frustration due to getting the nose caught on a sling or bolt when trying to unclip. Bravo Petzl! Keep up the great work!

Bottom line: Fantastic carabiner for any type of climbing where you want to save weight and have strength. Highly recommend!

5 5

Excellent!

This little thing is great. It's 20kN, so it's a full strength 'biner with a keylock wiregate, and the biggest gate opening I've ever seen. Seriously, this has a bigger gate opening than big 'biners like the BD Positron. It's a mini carabiner, slightly bigger than the CAMP Nano 23; however, it also just looks thicker and more reassuring than the Nano, so that's nice for your mental health. The nose is perfect and slides over bolts beautifully. All in all, it's simply the best carabiner I've ever used. They're expensive, but I'm still keen to get more.

The gate looks REALLY small and hard to...

The gate looks REALLY small and hard to use. Anyone have much experience with this. I like the idea of a notchless wiregate, but not if the opening is tiny.

Responded on

I've taken some photos of a 10.1mm Sterling Marathon Pro in the basket as well as being clipped. The clearance is more than enough to comfortably make clips once you get the hang of it.

I've taken some photos of a 10.1mm Sterling Marathon Pro in the basket as well as being clipped.  The clearance is more than enough to comfortably make clips once you get the hang of it.
3 5

A little small....

and a little hard to use. There are lighter biners that have bigger bodies. Gate is difficlt to use as well. I was hoping for more.