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Description

Gravity, thou art a heartless wench.

Extra weight is your enemy, particularly when gravity is trying to drag you off of your mixed or ice project. That’s where the lightweight Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraws come in. At just 66 grams each, these draws won’t hold you down, literally. An innovative MonoFil keylock wire gate system allows for smooth clipping, so you won’t waste time and energy fiddling with a gate 60 feet off the deck.

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Review Summary
5
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5 3
3 2
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Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraw

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Here's what others have to say...

2 5

Meh...

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I had the chance to try a set of these, and I wasn't impressed.

The Good:
--SO LIGHT. SO VERY VERY LIGHT.
--They look sexy
--Nose is smooth, so it won't hang up.

The Bad:
--Tiny gate; OK for the bolt end, but quite annoying on the rope end.
--Clipping action feels weird, but probably only because the gate is essentially a single wire.
--SO EXPENSIVE. SO VERY VERY EXPENSIVE

These just didn't feel right for me. The gate was teeny which made getting the rope quite finicky. If you want a super light draw, I would look at Hoodwires or Oz draws instead.

5 5

Great overall draw!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love this draw. It is strong, light, and has a cool appearance. The only thing that I don't like about this draw is the price. One of my favorite features of this draw is the no catch nose. It allows you to connect into the bolt/protection very easily, same with the rope connection. This is for sure my favorite draw in my rack. Opening the gate may be different then others, but overall, I love this rack!

3 5

Maybe you get used to the gates?

petzl, like many companies, was trying to create a smoother cleaning wire gate biner. their design acomplishes that, but the single wire gate doesn't feel good when clipping. not to mention the gate opening is small. i still prefer double wire gates for the rope and a solid gate for the wall. if i don't send, it won't be because my draws were too heavy.

4 5

Love them

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love the gate, it doesnt snag on the rope when you unclip or play with the rope. They are light and nice to handle, the only downside some people comment when they use my draws is sometimes they snap their figure when they clip the rope in because the gate is not as large as others.

4 5

Great Quick Draw, but...

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

they are just too damned expensive!

That is my only complaint about these draws.

5 5

Love em

I really like these quick draws. I think they clip really nice. Granted, the orange ones are a little small, but they are super light. I love the fact that they have a no catch nose, so clearing the rope and the bolt is super easy. I think they clip with a reassuring sound, and that they look very cool. The blue caribiners are larger and easier to handle, but heavier. If you are having trouble clipping them, there is a video on youtube or petzl's website on how to clip them. The way they show you works perfectly. Takes a while to get used to, but I love them now. Great quickdraw

Responded on

Agreed. Thats all I have to say.

4 5

finicky but fine

I bought these for their lightness and they are awesome. I find them OK to clip but require good technique. A lot of my friends do not like the small ones and I kinda agree. Go with the larger ones and you won't look back.
I do find that the webbing sling has developed a twist in it that I do not like and others have also had this issue.

5 5

Good Quick Draws

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is a great draw, I like the low profile, and that they are not too bulky. I have used the biners on there own, so it only seemed natural to get the matching draws too. Older climbers made a lot of fun at first, till I let them try them on a few climbs, now they are looking to buy them.

Good Quick Draws
5 5

smaller, bigger gate opening than SPIRIT

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

a small biner, but it has has a bigger gate opening than the Spirit, narrower nose, similar volume underneath the nose, 21 gramms lighter than the Spirit. I replaced all my Spirits on my rack with Ange S and climbed 1000ft routes in the Dolomites with 2 buddies of mine, using two single ropes, a 9.4 and a 9.8. YES!!! 2 single ropes in that small biner.
Easier to clip and unclip than the Petzl Spirit

smaller, bigger gate opening than SPIRIT
5 5

Smart

I am old school. Built my first trad rack in 1976 - that's a way to say I have had a lot of binners, gear, rack. These are what they are advertised as - advanced forging mono wire gate ultra light carabiners. A big/small combo draw weighs in at about the same as a single old school Chouinard D on my rack. That is a take notice savings of weight. As others have said in various ways - there is no free lunch - you loose the old school durability - the small is, well, rather small and takes getting used to. For what they are, what they are built to do - I beleive the represent the state of the art and are REALLY cool enginerring. There is a place on anyones rack for a half dozen of the small / large combo's IMHO.

3 5

Wish I had gone with the L... or Spirits

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The design of these biners is super trick. They are as light as it gets and have 90% of the benefit of a keylock - there is a little nubbin at the end of the mono-wire gate that can catch a rope or finger - nothing compared to a real notch but not completely smooth like a keylock gate. At any rate, the design is great and they are the lightest draws I have ever seen, but the fact is the S is simply too small for smooth clips. If you are interested in ultralight quickdraws, I highly urge you to eat a few more grams and go with the L on the clipping side. Or get WC Heliums, which are even bigger and almost as light.

On a related note, however, I have become dubious of the value of ultralight sport draws. If you do lots of hard onsight attempts, then they are nice. For projects, though, they are pretty pointless. And once you get used to carrying a trad rack, the difference between 12 "normal" draws and 12 UL draws is pretty negligible.

The Petzl Spirit is bigger, tougher, and has a certain intangible perfection to the clip that no other draw, including the Ange L, can match for me. Unless you are really into hard sport onsight attempts, I suggest the Spirit as the ultimate quickdraw.

Working the crack with the Ange

Working the crack with the Ange

Posted on

Using the Ange draws on the classic 10 b/c in Cement Creek, Plastic Poser.

5 5

Awesome draws!

These draws are the very best! They are my first set of draws, and I bought them with the small/large biners and 17 cm draws. The MonoFil gate system isn't like a regular keylock or wire gate, it's the best of both worlds; a mix! They are easy to clip into, and the gate size on the L is either as big as or bigger than most other biners' gates. The draw is also pretty long in the 17 cm size, and it's also stiff so it doesn't flop around at all. They also weigh almost nothing. You should get these whether you're an ice climber, sport climber, trad climber, or a mixed climber, and they're great for both beginners and experts alike. Definitely a little more money than others, but worth it for the weight and quality - and I expect them to last a long, long time.

4 5

Not for me...

The gate on the smalls is so frickin tiny!!! I get my thumb caught in the gate almost every time I clip.
I don't particularly think it's worth saving grams if you're wasting time wrestling with the biner, but that's why they came out with the large sizes, which is significantly better.

Other than that, these draws are incredibly light and the keylock wire gate will never snag.
Definitely don't get the small if you're ice or mixed climbing, and to be honest, check out the DMM Shield Quick Draws

3 5

sexyer than functional

they are very porno and light, love the single wire, luv the key lock nose... but the gate is super small, I find my fingers getting caught in them. thats the small size... i dont know bout the large...

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