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Gravity, thou art a heartless wench.
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Share your thoughts
What do you think of the
Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraw
? Share a...
finicky but fine
Greg Hill
Member since
I bought these for their lightness and they are awesome. I find them OK to clip but require good technique. A lot of my friends do not like the small ones and I kinda agree. Go with the larger ones and you won't look back.
I do find that the webbing sling has developed a twist in it that I do not like and others have also had this issue.
Ange
Federico Garcia
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Luke
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Luke
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Good Quick Draws
Bj and Emily Chauvin
Member since
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
This is a great draw, I like the low profile, and that they are not too bulky. I have used the biners on there own, so it only seemed natural to get the matching draws too. Older climbers made a lot of fun at first, till I let them try them on a few climbs, now they are looking to buy them.
smaller, bigger gate opening than SPIRIT
Wolfgang Schweiger
Member since
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
a small biner, but it has has a bigger gate opening than the Spirit, narrower nose, similar volume underneath the nose, 21 gramms lighter than the Spirit. I replaced all my Spirits on my rack with Ange S and climbed 1000ft routes in the Dolomites with 2 buddies of mine, using two single ropes, a 9.4 and a 9.8. YES!!! 2 single ropes in that small biner.
Easier to clip and unclip than the Petzl Spirit
Smart
Michael Hassey
Member since
I am old school. Built my first trad rack in 1976 - that's a way to say I have had a lot of binners, gear, rack. These are what they are advertised as - advanced forging mono wire gate ultra light carabiners. A big/small combo draw weighs in at about the same as a single old school Chouinard D on my rack. That is a take notice savings of weight. As others have said in various ways - there is no free lunch - you loose the old school durability - the small is, well, rather small and takes getting used to. For what they are, what they are built to do - I beleive the represent the state of the art and are REALLY cool enginerring. There is a place on anyones rack for a half dozen of the small / large combo's IMHO.
Wish I had gone with the L... or Spirits
Sandy Preiss
Member since
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
The design of these biners is super trick. They are as light as it gets and have 90% of the benefit of a keylock - there is a little nubbin at the end of the mono-wire gate that can catch a rope or finger - nothing compared to a real notch but not completely smooth like a keylock gate. At any rate, the design is great and they are the lightest draws I have ever seen, but the fact is the S is simply too small for smooth clips. If you are interested in ultralight quickdraws, I highly urge you to eat a few more grams and go with the L on the clipping side. Or get WC Heliums, which are even bigger and almost as light.
On a related note, however, I have become dubious of the value of ultralight sport draws. If you do lots of hard onsight attempts, then they are nice. For projects, though, they are pretty pointless. And once you get used to carrying a trad rack, the difference between 12 "normal" draws and 12 UL draws is pretty negligible.
The Petzl Spirit is bigger, tougher, and has a certain intangible perfection to the clip that no other draw, including the Ange L, can match for me. Unless you are really into hard sport onsight attempts, I suggest the Spirit as the ultimate quickdraw.
Working the crack with the Ange
Joshua Bruch
Member since
Using the Ange draws on the classic 10 b/c in Cement Creek, Plastic Poser.
Awesome draws!
Joshua Bruch
Member since
These draws are the very best! They are my first set of draws, and I bought them with the small/large biners and 17 cm draws. The MonoFil gate system isn't like a regular keylock or wire gate, it's the best of both worlds; a mix! They are easy to clip into, and the gate size on the L is either as big as or bigger than most other biners' gates. The draw is also pretty long in the 17 cm size, and it's also stiff so it doesn't flop around at all. They also weigh almost nothing. You should get these whether you're an ice climber, sport climber, trad climber, or a mixed climber, and they're great for both beginners and experts alike. Definitely a little more money than others, but worth it for the weight and quality - and I expect them to last a long, long time.
Not for me...
Emerson Takahashi
Member since
The gate on the smalls is so frickin tiny!!! I get my thumb caught in the gate almost every time I clip.
I don't particularly think it's worth saving grams if you're wasting time wrestling with the biner, but that's why they came out with the large sizes, which is significantly better.
Other than that, these draws are incredibly light and the keylock wire gate will never snag.
Definitely don't get the small if you're ice or mixed climbing, and to be honest, check out the DMM Shield Quick Draws
sexyer than functional
richardbra1544860
Member since
they are very porno and light, love the single wire, luv the key lock nose... but the gate is super small, I find my fingers getting caught in them. thats the small size... i dont know bout the large...
Wow!
Thomas Briley
Member since
I was originally turned away from these draws because of the price. So after a local climbing comp I won a few of these and decided to try them out a couple weeks later. I wish I had invested in these sooner! They're so lightweight you can hardly even tell you have them on you. The smooth nose is awesome so you don't have to worry about snagging. The stiff dog bone is great so while you're 60' above the ground you don't have to worry about spinning of the biners.
I will slowly be replacing all my draws with these. It may be expensive, but it is completely worth it!
The benchmark for the next 10 years?
Benjy
Member since
Its hard to think of ways to improve on the design of quick draws after using the Finesse. The key lock means it can't snag on the rope, the gate is so smooth clipping is a pleasure and they weigh just a little more that fresh air! I have the Small/Large version which is perfect, the small biners are really small, fine for bolts or nuts but would be a pain if on both ends. Dig deep into your pockets and empty the penny jar, you'll be glad you did.
Ange Finesse from Petzl
ashley tucker
Member since
go with the L
Kevin R.
Member since
I have draws and biners in both large and small and am very happy with them both. I must say tho, if you are a true gram counter, go with the smalls and just put up with it while you are hooking, but if you don't mind a few grams the L is just about perfect. They clip positive, feel solid in every way and I find the opening on the larges to be perfect for clipping bolts and running the rope. I have used them in the gym, real rock, and ice, absolutely in love and while I still pre clip using some of my other draws, you can be sure I won't be buying and others but these for the forseeable future.
View all contributions... Be patient, it might take a while.

charladam
Member since