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Redundancy is the name of the game when it comes to climbing anchors, so let the Petzl Am'D Locking Carabiner back you up when it matters most. The Petzl Am'D comes in three different lock modes (Screw-Lock, Ball-Lock, Triact-Lock) to fit your needs. It has a keylock gate to ensure it won't snag on your gear when you're building an anchor.
I am going to disagree with your "safer" claim for the Screw-Lock. I have been using Ball Locks for about 6 years now and have never had the third action get stuck once! I think this is a pretty good testament to the quality of the locking mechanism. It too has a simple visual check with the green ball, similar to the "red dead" band. However I could never, even if I tried, forget to lock them. I am going to make the claim of my own that the Ball Lock is safer than the Screw Gate.
I decided to pick a couple up to replace my BD Rocklocks in my anchor set up and I am loving them so far. I prefer the D 'biner for the rope side of the anchor and then I will use some pear shaped 'biners for the rock side of my anchor system and it works great for me. These are extremely strong, you can't go wrong. Also on the screw lock the "red you're dead" marking is very nice for a visual check to make sure it is locked down.
The rule of thumb is 1 mm of wear. That's the point when wear starts to compromise the strength of the piece . Once they're worn down 1mm in any area it's recommended that you retire them. Check this article out: http://backcountrybeacon.com/2010/10/climbing-gear-inspection-hardgoods/
There really is no shelf life for a carabiner. One major indicator is how much it is worn through. Tests have shown biners pulling to full strength even after being 60% worn, but you would obviously stop using it way before that. Probably retire it at around 20-25%. Also, the aluminum used in carabiners doesn't microfracture like it used to, so there is no such thing as invisible damage. If you can see a hairline crack in it or the sleeve itself is cracked or won't close, retire it. If the gate closes smoothly and there are no burrs across the working surfaces, then your carabiner is just fine. My dad still uses carabiners that are a good 25 years old.
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I have got to say, out of all the biners I've own or used over the years, this is the quickest and easiest one I've seen. The Ball-Lock is great! Only having to twist about 25 degrees, rather then the 45 on any other twist lock, means I can get it open even at odd angle where I don't have an ideal grip. Something that can be more then a little annoying when you finally topped that 70 foot lead. Plus the simplicity of just having to visually check for a green dot to know that the gate is locked is a real turn on for me.
I prefer these for belaying because they are nearly symmetrical. That means I can let it wear on each end, doubling the life of the belay biner. And the key lock makes things easy as well.
I used to use the ball locks, now I use the triact lock. I used to use manual screw locks, but prefer auto lockers for belay biners because one less thing I need to keep track of.
Go with the tri-action...it's bomber solid...just keep it oiled for time to time (which may not be very often) I own 5 of them and use them for everything from burly tasks like belaying to locking my 3 year old daughter's body harness on her in a way she can't ever undo...
I went with the screw locking version. They are cheaper and simpler, which usually means they will last longer. At my local gym all top ropes are set up with the orange self locking biners and some of them are sticking and can be a pain to get on and off. Maybe some lube would fix that. But since I'm not using mine in the gym where I am bouncing between top rope lines every 2 minutes I went with the screw locking. LOVE THEM.
I have a couple of these with the Tri-act gate, and find them very useful for certain things. I wouldn't use mine with a tube device or for rigging anchors (though I'm sure they would work fine), but they work great for a GriGri and are nice because they always stay locked and are easy to visually confirm. Also, I use one on a Mini-Traxion for solo top rope, which works well because (again) it stays locked when moving around with it, and the pulley has no trouble swinging around on the biner to load it in the proper orientation in case I fall on it.
This biner is great for building anchors because it is symmetrical and the keylock nose never snags on anything. The only downside is that it is heavy and kinda expensive
I´m a Rescue Firefighter and this carabiner is excellent for many applications: Anchoring, Pulleys, Descender, Ascender... I also do a little rock climbing and I find it quite light for a piece of equipment that safe. So gear up and take it to the top.
This is great cuz you never have to worry about your belayer not locking the gate. I find it a little annoying - you have to pull the screw up, twist it, then you can open the gate. But it is safe! And quite large and durable.
You should try the ball lock, the third action is simply pressing the ball with your thumb and is has a smaller angle between resting and open to twist than the Triact-Lock.
If there is one locking biner to end all, this is it! My go to for anything that needs to be bomber without giving it a second thought. This or the William are always on my harness for anchoring. The gate action, after years of use are still like new. I would buy these over any other large locking 'biners anyday.
this is a fantastic biner. it allows room for error, especially when building anchors. one hand operation makes setup super quick, so you get the maximum number of climbs in on that well-earned saturday. just be sure your climbing buddy understands the whole ball-lock concept before he goes up to clean the anchor :).
I use this with my Metolius Personal Anchor (great piece of gear). This biner has a great solid feel (the kind that makes you trust your life with it). I got the screw-lock (one of the best in the market in my opinion) for extra safety margin the red strip provides. "Red, your dead."
Get yours here, backcountry.com will treat you well.
I like the William ball lock with the Metolius Personal Anchor System and it works fantastic. Extra room for clipping with a wider gate opening, and no need to spin your biner closed when hanging on a sketchy crimp, run out at the top of a pitch.
P.S. For all you passersby, trail ninja is correct. The PAS is designed to hitch to your harness via the black end. This end is not another sewn loop and using it would create a rather large jump between the first and second loops; Hence defeating the point of the customizable length of this or any other anchor.
It is really tough and larger than my other carabiners... It has a good lock w/ a red warning strip shown if its unlocked.. a good warning strip for safety purposes...Its just heavier than my other carabiners.. an additional weight load to my stuff if you carry to many of them but in terms of safety it worth it.
Excellent biner. I also like the red safety stripe. The Am'D fits tight into my Petzl Pirana Descender making it feel like one unit. Great price for a quality carabiner.
Ok I'll add to the love :-) Biener of choice when I start to build up an anchor. love the safty red paint on the screw lock! Why is this not the standard?? I plan to mod my others this same way! Buy two or more :-)
The Ball Lock is a nice little invention. The pic here on the site makes the lock barrel look plastic but it is aluminum. A quick glance and as long as you see green you know it's locked. Nice smooth one handed operation too. I used a piece of rope and tangled it around the gate every which way I could but I could not get the rope to move the lock. Time will tell but I don't see any way this could come open accidentally.
First Ball Locker biner I have, and it rocks. Like previous reviews, the throw with the ball is shorter and easy to open than other lockers with one hand once you do it a few times. Less wrist twisting and contorting just to put on you belay device. Great addition to the rack.
Smooooth screw-gate, big enough to get a lot of rope/sling in there. Has a more "solid" feel than my Black Diamond Rocklock. They're both safe, of course.
I also like the added touch of the red paint that *only* shows when this biner is not locked. I don't need a feature like that to keep me alive, of course, but it's an extra safety measure that has no real downside.
I have a couple of these carabiners in a Triact-lock. The lock is secure, yet quick and easy to open one-handed. They are a little more money than some other carabiners, but still pretty good for the price.
i love the am'd carabiners. i recently bought this auto locking am'd for my reverso 3 and found that it is a not worth the extra five dollars. it get locked up about halfway open on me very often, making the ease of the one hand operation not so easy. otherwise i love that it locks automatically, makes it easy to perform the once over before climbing.
As the title says it, this biner's locking action is way smooth, easy to lock and un-lock while wearing gloves or mittens, and is great for attaching an ATC. For the price and quality, you cant really go wrong here.
I find this biner a bit awkward. After using it several times, it's still taking me two hands to get it to open, but I feel confident that I'll get used to it and I consider it safer than the screw versions which I can be prone to forget about closing. So, works for me.
Can't stop playing with the gate! It's so much fun to try to open it with one hand because you need to lift and turn it. Also looks very cool... Oh and it works fine :P
This is a very reliable piece of equipment. The triact lock is positive and easy to operate with full finger gloves. Ball lock is a little more difficult and not as "robust" in my opinion. Twist lock is cool with marking to identify if locked or not. Great LOCKING Carabiner.
These are pretty burly. I am a much bigger fan of the screw lock. I have the triact lock attached to my Metolius PAS - but they are too tough to open/attach with one hand - so I often just use the screw lock. Which are really easy to open/spin closed with one hand.
I'm just getting into climbing & the Petzl Am'D Locking Carabiner is great for me: I never have to worry that my carabiner is not locked! I bought the Triact-Lock Auto Lock version. Ya know, better safe than sorry, as Mom used to say...
It took me a bit to get used to this carabiner (Triact_Lock), but I like it. I have my 4 year old daughter use this with her setup and it gives me peace of mind. It is good for what I use it for, but I probably won't buy any more just because it has been difficult for me to get used to it. I would take a regular screw-lock over this for most locking carabiner needs.
I decided to pick a couple up to replace my BD Rocklocks in my anchor set up and I am loving them so far. I prefer the D 'biner for the rope side of more...
1 Comment Last Comment: January 17, 2012 by: Matt Oliver
By: Matt Oliver
January 17, 2012
I am going to disagree with your "safer" claim for the Screw-Lock. I have been using Ball Locks for about 6 years now and have never had the third action get stuck once! I think this is a pretty good testament to the quality of the locking mechanism. It too has a simple visual check with the green ball, similar to the "red dead" band. However I could never, even if I tried, forget to lock them. I am going to make the claim of my own that the Ball Lock is safer than the Screw Gate.
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