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When you're run out and fumbling to place gear, the last thing you want to worry about is a painful shoe. Lace up the Scarpa Techno Climbing Shoe for comfortable yet precise performance on difficult trad climbs. The Techno's low-profile last excels at thin cracks and delicate face moves, and the sticky Vibram XS Grip sole and heel keep you pasted to the rock. Scarpa's innovative Heel Lock System pulls the heel of the shoe snug when you tighten the laces, eliminating the need for a heel rand and reducing Achilles pressure. That means you can edge, jam, and smear all day without pain, and focus on what really matters – placing gear and climbing at your limit.
Bottom Line: When the climbing gets desperate and the gear seems dubious, trust the Techno.
Probably my least-favorite shoe among all I have ever owned. I've been climbing 15+ years, sport / trad / alpine / bouldering and I've owned shoes by 5.10 / Scarpa / Sportiva / Evolv.
Scarpa is capable of making incredible shoes (I'm thinking the Dominator circa 1997, or the Feroce now) but this seems to be just a gimmick. Problems I encountered with the Techno:
1. Impossible to tighten heel cup properly. The pulley system they devised instead of a slingshot rand (like most shoes have) is likely intended to reduce pressure on the Achilles tendon. I found that even with the shoes laced tightly, my heel slipped while smearing and jamming. Forget about heel hooks!
2. Stretch. This is normal for an unlined shoe, but compounds the problem above.
3. Terrible for delicate climbing. This shoe is too stiff for thin cracks, I would really recommend the Sportiva Barracuda instead. The flat last and lack of heel tension means you can't toe-in on anything smaller than a 1/2 inch, so the stiffness seems wasted unless all you do in backstep your way up <90 deg slabs.
Sorry Scarpa, I still believe in you, but I only used my Technos twice and now they're gathering dust in my closet...
I've only taken the Techno's out once, but they seemed to do the job well. I wear 10 1/2 on average and ordered 43's to start but they seemed a bit tight, so i ordered 43.5 and they fit snug, but i expect them to stretch a bit. They conform well and are aesthetic to boot! I'll update after i get a few more climbs in.
Since the item is not on sale there is a good chance they might restock the other sizes. I would check back frequently to see if they have received any more stock.
I wore them specifically for trad (crack climbing). After a few months of moderate use (I'd say 4-5 months), there is a big hole on the toe area. On the other shoe, some rubber near the heel area is starting to peel off. So they are not durable.
As for the fit. I really wanted a pair of shoes that was comfortable yet able to provide me with protection when foot jamming. I also wanted shoes that could edge when need to. These were ok to protect the feet from the horrible pain, and they are pretty flat so you could stick these into a thin crack, but they are horrible at edging and smearing. I have only fallen while wearing these shoes, never my other pair.
Getting the right size was also a pain. These stretch so you need to get the smallest possible. I think I went 3 sizes down and I could probably go a few more.
I'm also noticing some rubber on my heel is starting to peel off after a heel hook. These shoes are still fairly new and they don't seem like they will last for as long as I would hope.
I took this shoe to Moab last weekend and it was killer. It was super sticky and felt great on the foot. I did a little bouldering in it and also did some trad stuff. I went with the 44.5 because it will pack out a little since it is an unlined shoe. Can't wait to get it on granite. I would highly recommend this guy.
I finally burned out my original 5.10 shoes and searched carefully for a replacement. I wanted a shoe that was going to be comfy for long stretches of time since my goal this year is to cross into the long trad game from the shorter, sportier crag climbing. These are super comfy right from the get-go! I love the tongue and the neat strappy things (tech term) under your ankle that snug the fit without squeezing the crap out of your foot. There is enough stiffness in the sole and rubber across the toe that I feel good in my clumsy attempts at crack climbing. I was surprised at my lack of faith in the rubber at first. Probably just new-gear-nervousness because these shoes stick like glue to anything they touch. Oh, and they look way cooler in person too. In case you dig that kind of a thing.
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