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Petzl designed the Sarken Crampon for those who crave versatility when heading into variable, mixed terrain. This 12-point crampon features T-shaped front points for easy penetration in hard ice, and structural reinforcements on both sides of the frame to create a stable platform. The four rear teeth give you stability while descending down icy slopes, and lateral points give you grip while traversing. The Sarken’s linking bar can be set for flexible or semi-rigid to adapt to different environments and boot flexibilities. Boots larger than size 46 require the large linking bar (sold separately).
After much obsessing I have yet to find a crampon this lightweight with equal performance in the alpine arena. The Sarkens are extremely versatile. The front points are oriented with both vertical and horizontal bars (essentially a "T" shape) which means they penetrate steep alpine ice AND bite into vert-snow, yet manage to resist sheer in combo-mank. Although, I say "ixnay" on the Sidelock binding system- unless you like a funky fit. The anti-ball plates work well and don't shatter when cold kicking. In my opinion, this is the best all-round performing crampon on the market.
This is a nice all-around crampon - works well on mixed snow/ice terrain, and light enough for glacier work. In particular, I like the shape of the frontpoints, especially for vertical snow conditions (they get nice and wide near the back of the fps).
That said, you can't replace them. You have to replace the whole front piece, which is obnoxious.
Finally, I can find no discernible advantage to the Sidelock. In fact, it's kind of a pain in the ass.
Any ideas if I could mix and match Grivel and Petzl - I have Grivel Air Techs for alpine, and would be interested in getting the Sarken for steeper climbs (where vertical front points would be usefull) - To minimize the bulk, I would like to use the rear and the linking bar from Grivel (as I have the long bar for my 12.5 foot already for the Air Techs), and simply use the front part of the Sarkens - I guess the big question is, will Grivel linking bar fit through the Sarken fronts - is the bar the same size (width is the only that counts) with Petzl and Grivel?
I really recommenced against this. Manufacturers use specific tolerances and materials that don't usually transfer between companies or models. The Grivel Air Techs are VERY similar to the Sarkens anyway- unless you own the Air Tech LIGHT model which are very different because they are made of alloy not steel. Because of the design features, Sarkens walk well on glaciers and gentle snow slopes but still climb steep ice/rock/mixed terrain well. Plus, you can also purchase a Petzl extension bar for larger shoe sizes for about $10 bucks.
This is a nice all-around crampon - works well on mixed snow/ice terrain, and light enough for glacier work. In particular, I like the shape of the frontpoints, especially for vertical snow conditions (they get nice and wide near the back of the fps).
That said, you can't replace them. You have to replace the whole front piece, which is obnoxious.
Finally, I can find no discernible advantage to the Sidelock. In fact, it's kind of a pain in the ass.
I use a size 46.5 (Euro) boot, which is about size 12 in a UK boot, and I have to use nearly the last holes in the adjustment bar. However, Petzl sells an extension bar that will fit these crampons for about $10. Voila. (PS. These are freakin' great crampons)
Ignore the 'recall' comment. These crampons were recalled two years ago because a few climbers were breaking the extremely long front points. I climbed on the crampons and loved the performance. I grudgingly turned in my crampons when the 'recall' notice came in. Now that the crampons have been redesinged- I can't wait to buy a set. They are amazing at holding in anything- this is the ultimate mixed mountaineering crampon... the front points are long enough to puncture through aerated ice/frozen moss or anything else and give you reliable purchase. The twin tips also provide a very stable platform for placing equipment. Love em.
Well I did tons of research after going up Mw in a rental pair last April, that was a horror show . This year looking to get my own to use up this winter. I decIded on the Sidelock version of these crampons. They really are super light very well constructed , I have not field tested them and I am very glad I tried them before going up a mountain in severe weather . In my home with tons of time and nice warm temps they are impossible to lock on the boots. The lock is made of very weak soft rubber! If you needed to get these on in cold temps you would loose your fingers . I have ordered the lever wire so I hope these work better. I do not think you will see the sidelock around very long. They are dangerous in extreme conditions and do not work a flash in the pan that could get a climber hurt.
I love these crampons. They're not overly heavy, the expel snow extremely well, they are very easy to put on as well as take off. The anti-balling plates work amzingly well. I've used them about 2 dozen times and never had even the slightest problem.
Though I prefer mono points for true vertical waterfall ice, these things are great for just about all else. I have used the prior iteration of these things in the cascades, colorado, ecuador and peru and they have served well on everything from glacier jaunts to serious alpine routes. Ignore the foolish recall review...these are the updated version (and, from everyone I've talked to, even the recalled version was pretty much bomber - petzl was just being extremely cautious in recalling the originals).
Comment on don bowie's review >