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Marker Duke 16 Ski Binding

Marker Duke 16 Ski Binding

Item #MRK0025|113 in Stock – Ships Wicked Fast & Free
$449.99
Suggested Retail: $495.00
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Marker Duke 16 Ski Binding

Built from the ground up for the modern freerider, the Duke Ski Binding is the burliest AT binding ever created. This badass AT binding is all about, well, being badass. To switch from touring mode to ride mode, a rider must take the ski off, pop up the underfoot lever, then put the ski back on. This system guarantees the binding WILL NEVER INADVERTANTLY OPEN IN SKI MODE, a nice thing to know when you're 50 feet in the air and coming down fast. Connection brackets mount to the ski directly to increase power transfer without ruining the ski's flex. The Duke binding's burly heel and toe piece have wide contact points to facilitate power transfer, and the DIN goes up to 16 to prevent premature release when going big. An adjustable toe height feature gives you an incredibly solid connection with your boot. In tour mode, the binding moves your center of mass backward 30mm for greater efficiency. There's also a choice of two hiking positions, either 6 or 12 degrees.

Bottom Line: The Duke is a full-on freeride binding with touring capability, not a touring binding with a freeride marketing plan.

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Rating for this product: 2

Boot Gouging

By:
1 day ago

For a tweener binding it works well. My biggest issue with the binding is the gouging that it has caused on the heel of my boot. Not exactly stoked to pay $400+ for a binding that ruins a $700 pair of boots.

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Rating for this product: 4

Confidence

By:
October 1, 2009

AT rigs are all about compromise. With these bindings on you won't be winning any rando-races but you will have all the confidence you need in them when it counts. Big airs, straightlines, no fall zones, the bindings won't give you an excuse to turn back. I have 2 pairs of dukes and 2 pairs of dynafits. They each have their place. The duke is for charging hard, if you are doing anything else go with something lighter. I have not had durability issues but know people who have.

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thinking about getting a pair of Dukes for short sidecountry

thinking about getting a pair of Dukes for short sidecountry ventures. I'm rocking a 316 mm sole, right in the grey area, and am wondering if I should get the small or the large binding. any suggestions?

By:
January 9, 2010

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Get the Large. It's much better to be more in the 'meat' of a bindings range (both sole length as well as DIN) than to be so close to either end.

By: Backcountry.com Employee
January 11, 2010

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Rating for this product: 4

Sweet binding!

By:
January 24, 2010

As a resort skier who trends to the side-country and easily accessed backcountry, this binding is all that I need. I do admit there is a weakness in the AFD, though I have not personally broken one (knock on wood) and I know a few people who have. If adjusted properly, they are bomber and the best binding for side-country and easily accessed backcountry. For long and/or steep tours, they are not the greatest. They could really use a longer climbing bar, as the height on the current one is not sufficient past 30 degrees. They are super easy to mount with the included template!
Still, and awesome-kick ass binding that is solid all around!

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I'm trying to figure out what binding to get for my 182 Shoguns.

I'm trying to figure out what binding to get for my 182 Shoguns. I've been debating getting the Salomon STH 14 binding (at 100mm brake, it's at skis.com). Now i'm thinking about a touring binding. I've primarily skied the blacks, and do the doubles (sloppily) however as I may be moving to Montana I have a huge interest in getting into the backcountry, off-piste terrain.

So my question is this...Will these bindings be as good "in-bounds" as say, the STH 14 (or any other alpine binding)? I feel it'd be nice to have the opportunity for advancement that the DUKE will grant. Thoughts?

By:
January 8, 2010

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Rating for this product: 4

Excellent downhill and short-tour binding

By:
January 21, 2010

The Duke is a great binding, provided that you know (or a competent MARKER tech) how to set them up properly. The toe height is tricky to get perfect, especially with rockered alpine touring soles. Asides from that, these bindings are excellent! For touring, a higher heel bar would have been cool, but, this binding is not designed for multi-day tours or long, steep approaches. It is what it is marketed to be, a side-country and short-backcountry binding that performs just as well, if not better, than 90% of the alpine bindings on the market. No slop or play on the down, and they can drive any sort of ski that it will fit. I have three pairs of Dukes and a pair of Barons and so far have no complaints!

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I'm trying to figure out whether to get Dukes, Barons or

I'm trying to figure out whether to get Dukes, Barons or Dynafits. Everyone seems to love all 3, so how to decide? I'm using Dynafit ZZero 4 C-TFs, in case that makes a difference. I'm 5'10", 170 lbs.

I'm no Seth, and it's probably going to be a few years before I hike Cody. When I'm OB or in the backcountry, I'm looking strictly for deep silky smooth pow. But I'm also going to be using these on days when it's half inbounds/half out, so they need to be solid in downhill mode in case it's cruddy. I want to feel confident going anywhere in or out with these.

Since they all 3 seem awesome, should I just go with the lightest of the 3? Any suggestions on how to approach it would be mucho appreciated.

By:
December 30, 2009

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If you don't ski like Seth, you can rule out Dukes. Dynafits are obviously the lightest option, but you pay for it in downhill performance and confidence compared to dukes/barons. i would recommend looking at fritschi diamir freeride plus bindings - which kind of fall inbetween barons and dynafits (i.e. lighter and climb better than barons but better downhill performance than dynafits) and overall solid downhill performance in and out of bounds. Hope this helps

By:
January 4, 2010

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Rating for this product: 5

Marker Duke 16 Ski Binding

By:
December 11, 2009

These things are idiot proof. Haven't put them through a whole lot of skiing yet, but what I've done has been sick. The only thing I can really see being an issue is buildup of ice in the walk to ski transfer, but that can be easily chipped away with a pole. Also they are a bit high off the ground, but after a couple runs in soft snow and even groomers I really haven't noticed it.

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5 Comments Last Comment: January 6, 2010 by:

By:
December 18, 2009

Actually for skiing a lifter is an advantage. Gives you more leverage for angulation. They limit height in ski racing and if they didn't everyone would have over 2 inches of lift. As long as the mechanism doesn't have any play in it(and my dukes don't) it should ski better.

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By: Backcountry.com Employee
January 6, 2010

Still though, I use this binding for my touring setup and it is better than the alternative.

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By: Backcountry.com Employee
January 6, 2010

Well, Dan is partially right, but he is only taking into account people that want to make narrower turns. Skiers that want to straight line as many lines as possible or skiers that are touring in order to get to backcountry kickers don't want lift. These type of skiers want to feel the flex of the ski naturally, and they don't want to be higher off of the ski which can cause them to catch an edge when landing backwards in powder or when not turning through crud.

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By:
January 2, 2010

You have a point about waist width on today's skis. However, there is essentially no advantage to being right on the ski as far as turning goes. Lift is an advantage to prevent booting out as you stated, but that is only part of the picture. It is actually not all that much of an issue on hard snow if you have proper angulation and you are countered with shoulders square to the hill. It is precisely in soft snow conditions that booting out is an issue. The booting out, as I mentioned, is only part of the picture though. Lift allows you to get your feet out from underneath your upper body, giving you increased angulation allowing you to shorten your turning radius as well be more aggressive as you get on more challenging terrain. This is why racers use as much lift as the rules allow, and using any more is an unfair advantage. This applies to any snow conditions and any type of skiing. Lift is not critical in backcountry/soft snow conditions, but it is in no way a detriment. Provided the lift still has torsional rigidity, which the duke does, it is always helpful assuming you can achieve big angles without leaning in. It is a big part of the reason I like the binding so much.

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By:
December 19, 2009

height is an advantage on hard snow, partially to avoid "booting out". in soft snow, it is most definitely not an advantage. the ski width most people mount these on does even more to negate that, while also preventing booting out on harder snow!

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Thanks, was thinking the smalls would be best too. Not sure how

Thanks, was thinking the smalls would be best too. Not sure how much touring I'll actually be doing, but want the capability of hittin backcountry from time to time. I am 5'10 175lbs. I usually ski Taos, Wolf Creek, and Silverton. I'm pretty good and aggressive, just never had the equipment/time/ money to complement my skills. I'm that guy riding park skis in deep pow struggling to shred like my friends who have the right gear for the conditions, but nonetheless holding my own. You won't see me hucking off anything higher than 15ft or so as my aging knees deteriorate. I think the Barons would be sufficient, but still like having the best gear (even if it is once every 5-7 years).

By:
December 16, 2009

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I would go with the Barons, even if you want your DIN at 10 (your knees wouldn't like you) these will work great. the are a better weight, better for touring, better all around. -- and the size you get is dependent on the length on your boots.

By:
December 17, 2009

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Rating for this product: 5

marker duke

By:
December 21, 2009

i have just starting touring this year and was at a toss up between fritschi and the dukes. the simplest explanation i have heard so far is that if you are mainly a resort skier that will tour get the dukes. so far the binding as been super easy to use and tour with, haven't noticed the extra weight since i have never been on another touring binding, but as long as your not a minimalist you might not notice either way.

have a pair mounted on bluehouse districts and the new goat, bomber binding and dont expect any troubles with them. as a side note last years color of the duke and the new gotamas are sick.

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I'm thinking about getting some Dukes or Barons for my recently

I'm thinking about getting some Dukes or Barons for my recently purchased Icelantic 181 Nomads. I am leaning towards the Dukes although they may be overkill for my ability. Dukes or Barons? Oh and this question will make me sound amateur, but will an alpine boot work with either of these bindings? I love my old boots and don't have it in the budget to get new ones anytime soon. Third question, if my alpine boots are indeed compatible with the Dukes or Barons, should I get the small or large? My boots are 305mm. Think the smalls will work with up to 320mm and the large are good for 305 and up? Kind of a grey area there!

By:
December 16, 2009

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alpine boots work fine in these, just make sure to have a shop set up the proper toe height adjustment.

By:
December 19, 2009

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Get smalls for you boot size, we need more information as to your profile (height and weight at least) and the terrain you ski to determine which binding. Alpine boots will work, however they may be slightly uncomfortable and heavy to tour in unless they have a walk mode. Nothing you can't endure

By:
December 16, 2009

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Ok, I found these bindings matched with a pair of volkl mantras

Ok, I found these bindings matched with a pair of volkl mantras and am highly considering. I am a pretty good skier (blacks double blacks get a little sloppy) and plus will live in Co soon so i may end up venturing some backcountry and want a set up with some room to grow. Is this a good choice? I'm 6', 180lbs and ski on volkl 170's now, would 177's be a huge transition?

By:
November 29, 2009

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The 177 would not be a huge difference, and you will probably progress to a longer length fairly soon, if you are moving to Colorado. For now, this will get you through quite well as a quiver of one rig, but next season or maybe the season after you will be looking at longer planks, almost guaranteed.

By:
November 29, 2009

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Rating for this product: 5

huck proof

By:
January 21, 2010

Bomber binder. Great for resort, sidecountry, and day tours. Anyone complaining about weight or how these tour - the duke is exactly what they marketed it as, a burly resort binder with limited touring capabilities. If you want something lighter or that strides better get a real A/T setup. I love mine, have them mounted on pmgear lhasa's with dynafit titans. Not the lightest setup but for the skiing I do (80% resort/ 20% touring) it works great.

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Duke or Fritschi? I've got a pair of Fritschis now and I

Duke or Fritschi? I've got a pair of Fritschis now and I like them. Putting together a second AT setup and am considering the Duke. Or should I stick with Fritschi? Thanks!

@Shane: Thanks for the feedback. Fritschi's are on a pair of Armada ARVs. Used to be on a pair of Havocs, but I like the ARVs better. Looking at getting a pair of Armada JJs for the deep stuff and want AT bindings for these as well. Honestly, I don't care about weight as much as I do about durability and build quality. I'll take an extra pound or two any day if the product is bomber. So, for the JJ, what would you suggest, Duke or Fritschi? Or should I just go for a Dynafit setup and get it over with? :)

By:
November 28, 2009

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It depends what this setups use is for. If you Fritschi set is a more long distance, multi-day tour set up than I would say Dukes. That gives you a heavier setup that you can mount on bigger planks, so that you have more of a sidecountry, day-tour setup for charging hard and the likes.

By:
November 28, 2009

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Rating for this product: 1

AFD breaks EASY

By:
October 1, 2009

So hopefully they figured something out for the AFD. I broke both mine within a month of use. My freind also broke one of his. I spoke with the local shops in town and right now they are totally out of the AFD peices and have become jerks about warranting them without proof of purchase. For the Burliest AT binding on the market they sure do break easy.

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3 Comments Last Comment: October 15, 2009 by:

By:
October 7, 2009

the peice under your toe that allows for an easier side to side release....the dukes is on a track with an alpine or touring mode, adjusted with a philips bolt. Easy to replace and or fix if they didnt break so easy and the manufacturers were out of them. Last year I had to put duct tape on it to hold it in place, didn't want to warranty them(wait 2-3 weeks) and miss out on the late season powder.

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By:
October 4, 2009

what's afd?

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By:
October 15, 2009

AFD = Anti-Friction Device

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I've seen some comments about AT-soled boots not releasing

I've seen some comments about AT-soled boots not releasing well with these binders. Apparently the toe height squishes the soft rubber outsoles causing too much friction and hence, unreliable toe release pattern. Anyone care to elaborate on this?

By:
October 29, 2009

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Well I will have to tell my Marker tech he is a chimip. Jason you are not completely off on the AT soled boots not releasing. Last spring I tore my MCL and destroyed my knee when my Scarpa Denali TT boots did not release from my new Duke bindings during a backcountry trip. The Marker tech contacted the company and they say that not all AT non DIN boots are compatible with the Duke. My advice is to take caution on this one and not end up in rehab for a year like I am.

By:
November 23, 2009

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Well, whoever told you this didn't set the binders up correctly. These binders have an adjustable toe height which should be set by a qualified tech who is familiar with AT BINDERS, not alpine binders. If you do not set toe height correctly, then it is possible to have issues with releasing. 90% of the time, this is due to some jackass who claims he knows how to set these binders up then does it the wrong way. I have three pairs of Dukes and have not had an issue with them yet. If you have a rockered sole on your boots (like some AT models such as the Spirit 4) then you need to be even more careful setting them up.

All in all, they will work fine with ANY AT boot as long as you dont have a chimp setting them up.

By:
November 3, 2009

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Rating for this product: 5

When DH Matters

By:
October 21, 2009

The Dukes are (finally) an AT capable downhill binding. If you ski hard then these are for you. I've toured for years on numerous bindings, but I never realized what I was missing until I got a pair of Dukes.

The compromise is they don't tour as nicely. The climbing bar is pretty weak, I've bent one and no longer use the high position when on a sidehill. They are clunky on the flat, but not too bad when ascending. They are obviously heavy, but after being out a few times your legs get stronger and you're fine. I still use more touring oriented bindings for multi-day tours, but don't hesitate to grab my Dukes for day trips (under 5000-ft).

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So I skimped out last year and got a pair of griffin's on

So I skimped out last year and got a pair of griffin's on my new lines (they were on sale for 99 bucks so i couldn't pass it up). I rode them all last season but this year i'm planning on some backcountry with some friends out west. will the holes that were drilled for my griffins match the duke holes? i guess the bigger question is can you redrill skis?

By:
October 15, 2009

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the usual rule of thumb is that you can drill into a ski about 3 times before the integrity of it has been compromised. ideally you drill into it once and it's a done deal, but twice shouldnt be too big of a problem.

By:
December 16, 2009

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If you have to ask if skis can be redrilled, I think you need to take a bit more time getting familiar with the sport and backcountry safety before you venture into the BC. Maybe I'm way off base here, but I think it's a fair assessment.

By:
November 29, 2009

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Yes, you can re-mount bindings.
No, the holes do not match.

By:
October 24, 2009

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Rating for this product: 5

Beefy clamps

By:
October 20, 2009

So far so good. If you're like me and cash is always tight you need your gear to pull double duty. This binding is perfect for those who want to venture off the resort, but need a set up to ski aggressively in bounds as well. These bindings drove my k2 Coomba's very nicely. There is NO performance compramise with the Duke's!

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I've got boots with a sole length of 315. I know the small

I've got boots with a sole length of 315. I know the small Dukes go up to 320. Seems to be cutting it close, but will that work fine? Is there any reason I should get large Dukes?

By:
September 28, 2009

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As long as your BSL is in the range you should be fine. Remember however that there is a large range of BSL's for various boots of the same foot size. Just make sure you don't limit your boot options in the future if you want to go with a larger boot of if you want get a boot that has a long BSL for its size.

By:
October 4, 2009

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Rating for this product: 3

Great to ski, but a pain to tour and falls apart

By:
December 29, 2009

So firts off, I am mainly a hard charging resort skiier who's been doing a bit of back counrty... 2 weekends to be exact.

After just 2 weekends, broke the Riser, so now I can return and excahnge the binding. These do kick butt going downhill, but changing to touring mode is a real challenge, especially in deep snow or rough conditions.

And teh weight is heavy for going up hill. Risers are difficult to adjust as you move through varied terrain as well. I went with a group and saw a lot of different options from the Blackdiamonds to the Fritchi's etc. and will probably try something different. They all seem better for the touring, but certainly the dukes are the best for the downhill.

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Besides the change in color, what, if any, changes were made

Besides the change in color, what, if any, changes were made to this binding to warrant a $450 dollar price tag? I dont know why the ski industry has been raising the prices of their equipment so much in the last couple of years. You might as well tell ski bums like me, "f-off because we dont want your kind on the slopes."

- The Disgruntled Skiier.

By:
September 27, 2009

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I stand corrected. We took a look for ourselves at last year's vs this year's Duke bindings here in the BC.com Mega-Core Office and Margarita nailed it....SS, DD. So yah, despite the claims we heard at SIA, there is no structural change (height from ski). Just the new color. I've checked a Green Thumbs Up on Margarita's answer and given my original "nah dude it changed" answer the dreaded Red Thumbs Down. Still a kill binding. I love my Barons.

By: Backcountry.com Employee
October 12, 2009

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Whoa not so fast there Margarita! There have been two cosmetic 'updates' to the Duke and one key structural change. As you can clearly see, the colors have been changed up. What's harder to see is that the toe of the binding is less stubby than last year's. It kinda curves back towards your boot instead of being straight up and down. That's all pretty-points though...the important thing is the structural change. The new Duke/Barons sit lower on the ski than in years past. There is less lift and a closer-to-the-ski feel.

This binding's price hasn't changed for this year. If you've seen smaller prices in the past...they were on sale. These are mad expensive. I work here and I can't even afford them! I picked up the Baron last year, saved around $100, and lost a pound/pair of weight. You could also try my ski bum plan: work nights at a resort part-time for a (free) half week pass and tour the rest of the week. There's always a way man!

By: Backcountry.com Employee
October 9, 2009

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Easy answer. There aren't any changes, aside from the new copper and cream color scheme, you buy binding for the binding, not the year it was made. You probably already know this, but ski companies only design a binding once. They sell essentially the same binding with very minute modifications every year until the system is outdated or a flaw is discovered. There is no difference in this year's duke from last years, or will be from next years. Buy a used pair if you can, its the same binding.

By:
October 4, 2009

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Rating for this product: 4

Marker Dukes

By:
November 17, 2009

I have mine mounted on Volkl Mantras. Very solid attachment which is nice on a wide somewhat heavy ski. They feel solid with either my Alpine or AT boots. Excellent in-bounds performance, no worries about performance there. They climb ok. They are heavy though. For anything with a lot of climbing I'll take my lighter skis (Volkl T-rock with Fritchi or Volkl Mountain with dynafit)

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Hi I have Garmont Radium boots size 27,5 do I need bindings size

Hi I have Garmont Radium boots size 27,5 do I need bindings size small or large thanks

By:
September 9, 2009

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27.5 puts you into 315/316 mm boot sole length, which means that you will just fit into a small size duke. you will save a few grams too!

By:
September 12, 2009

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I wear size 27.0 ski boots & had to get the large Baron, you'll also likely need the large Duke. To make sure, check your boot sole length - it should be printed in mm somewhere near the bottom of the boot shell.

By:
September 10, 2009

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Rating for this product: 2

Mine broke

By:
November 29, 2009

I originally liked these bindings, using them about 25 times resort skiing and about 10 in the backcountry last year. Never had any problems with them at all. I've heard about problems with the AFD in the toe, but I put these things through hell jumping in the park and off off stuff (weighing about 215 lbs with gear on). Never released when I shouldn't have.The problem I have with them is in the backcountry. They do do the job- they get you up the hill- but thats about it. Ease of use is a major issue. Whenever the weather/sonw conditions are conducive to snow sticking to your skis, it makes it really hard to get the binding back into downhill mode (especially when ice forms in the slots the binding slides along). I can fumble around for 5 min plus (and often have to take my gloves off) to get them back into ride mode.The main problem I had with them is the metal piece, which is pretty thin gauge steel, that holds the pivoting part of the binding to the mounting plate that is fixed to the ski (not sure what to call it). Because of what the function of this piece is, there is naturally a lot of stress placed upon the part. I believe it broke on my skis because of the very wet and heavy snow that I was breaking trail through (the type of snow that is like concrete when compacted). The snow was wet enough to build up between the underneath of the pivoting part of the binding and the ski, then each time I stepped down I put pressure on this part (the part is raised up off the ski about 3/4" when in climbing mode), which caused it to flex and eventually break. Once broken, my foot, with the binding attached to my boot, completely slid off the mounting plate, thus leaving my ski behind. Could have been a very serious problem if I hadn't been only a short hike to the resort. I did find that I could keep my binding on the ski as long as I went up a decent slope. It could be used for downhill skiing, but the binding would slide back and forth on the rail about a half an inch.One additional thing to think about regarding these bindings for resort skiing (I think this applies to the Fritschi and other similar bindings) is the solid plate or support strut that connects the two ends of the bindings together does not flex very well when the ski is arcing. Because this plate is fixed to the ski, it creates a sort of dead area on the ski underneath the foot. It is not a huge deal, but should be thought of when looking at pros and cons.I bought this ski as I was getting into A/Ting, now that I have experience I can tell you that this binding does not do a good job of doing both A/T and resort skiing. Something else might, but I would say buy a touring binding for touring and an alpine binding for alpine.

Oh, and the heel riser got loose on one so it wouldn't stay in the up position.

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Anything new for this white 2009 model? Or is this the same as

Anything new for this white 2009 model? Or is this the same as the older 2007 black model?

By:
August 25, 2009

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See above. Love your name...

By:
October 27, 2009

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Rating for this product: 4

Alpine Binding - it can tour too.

By:
November 24, 2009

Dukes are sick. the key to your assessment of them is to think of them as an alpine binding that lets you tour as well.

these are definitely not for the dynafit crowd. they're heavy, they're tricky to adjust and they don't have the ability to adjust the heel height like frischi has mastered. also, they suffer from ice buildup when you are skinning for a long time.

that said, they ski exactly like an alpine binding, with solid power transfer from boot to ski. i have these on my 09 gotamas and they are my everyday ski. ice to groomers to crud to blower pow.

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Change me.

Research out-of-stock versions:

Tech Specs:

Material:
Plastic, stainless steel, aluminum 
DIN Rated:
Yes, 6 to 16 
Boot Compatibility:
AT and alpine 
Brakes Included:
Yes 
Brake Width:
110mm 
Heel Elevators:
Yes, 6- and 12-degree positions 
Weight:
[1 binding] 2lb 15oz (1334g) 
Recommended Use:
Backcountry skiing when downhill performance is paramount 
Manufacturer Warranty:
1 Year 

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