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Metolius PAS Personal Anchor System w/ Element Locking Carabiner
The Metolius PAS (Personal Anchor System) is designed to give the climber a super strong anchor connection while threading the rope for lowering, setting up a rappel, or belaying. The innovative PAS replaces the daisy chain affixed to your harness for belay change-overs, primarily because daisy chains are strong only when loaded in the end loops. Additionally, the PAS doubles as a handy anchor equalizer or runner when removed from your harness. The PAS is more convenient and adjustable than using slings or quickdraws at the anchor. INCLUDES LIGHT D LOCKING CARABINER.
Bottom Line: A new and innovative product that is a daisy chain, an anchor equalizer or runner all in one.
Easily stowed with one beaner, easy selection of length with its large loops, and the added safety of individually sewn loops; I wouldn't use anything else!
This thing is awesome. Best anchor system I have seen. Lightweight and strong, very fast on the mountain. Gets the job done in a pinch, without the fuss of the right length sling. Bonus works great with gloves, if on a glacier or vertical ice.
I agree with all of what has been said and would add that it stores very compactly on your harness: you can just clip all of the loops through a beiner and clip it to a gear loop without the tangle of wrapping it around yourself. regular daisy
This is a great replacement for a daisy chain because of the potential disaster scenarios it lets one avoid. Like everyone else has said, this is a static product to be used in static applications only, even though it can hold up to 18kN of force. Do not let this dynamic number fool you: the loops can take that amount of force. Your body cannot. Severe injury can be inflicted by even an extremely short fall on a static attachment. But all that aside, this anchor system is always on my harness--it is absolutely invaluable and was some of the greatest $30 I ever spent!
This is used as a leash to connect your harness to a bolt, protection, ice screw, anchor or something solid. It is a popular alternative to the daisy chain used in rock or ice climbing. The standard daisy chain as a flaw that, when used without proper instruction, can lead to disaster. Though daisy chains do a great job be sure to understand how they work. Check http://www.bdel.com/videos/daisy.html for more information.Due to the material it is made of it is not recommended for activities where you end up above your anchor, such as canyoneering. (The founder of ATS, Darren Jeffrey, demonstrated how easy they can fail in those situations.)
I use this for anchoring to bolts at the top of single pitch sport climbs, which it works quite well for. Probably my favorite application of this is for extending my belay device for rappels. I clip my belay biner through *both* the first little hole and the first "chain link", then when I'm ready to rappel I simply clip the PAS biner to my harness waist loop, creating a secure and redundant connection, which will keep me safe even in the (extremely unlikely) event that my belay loop or this sling fails. Also, this makes it easy to clip my "third hand" prussic directly to my belay loop. Note that this is not really designed to attach to anchors for belaying on multi-pitch routes, as the rope that is already tied to you is far superior for that purpose.
I love my PAS. It is very useful and is always on my harness. The pas is safer than a daisy chain but doesn't have as many loop options as a dasiy chain. So far my PAS has help up great to abuse. I have no complaints.
Like all the other reviewers, this has completely replaced my Daisy/Cowtail. This thing is rock solid, and by design, redundant and SAFE. Excellent design.
Well its very light weight. It stoes next to my harness well. I love the fact that each loop is fully rated. The only this that sketches me is how thin the loops are, A bit more fabric would give me a more secure feeling, But Iam use to using a big ol daisy chain.
By far the best personal anchor system you can have attached to your harness! The method to lengthen or shorten the PAS when at the bolts couldn't be simpler. You get maximum protection no matter which loop you are attached to. Add to that the ability to use as an equalizer and you can't go wrong! Throw away your daisy chain and go with this PAS!
I always use this while ice climbing and canyoneering. Great racking as people have mentioned. Girth hitch to belay loop in harness, and biner the loops together then clip them to the equip loops on your harness. In action, like stated, you can weight yourself on any loop safely, allowing short or long lengths as needed. There are various methods of using, but heed best practices - clip into anchor/bolt, webbing anchor, wrap around a thin tree and clip into itself, etc.
The only drawback to this specific item is the included biner. Lots of people would want to use the biner of their choice. But as a package, it's well worth it.
I was fully prepared to buy a BD daisy chain until I started reading all the warnings and decided this would be worth the extra cost, which it has been. The large loops are easy to clip and store away. The larger loops have been handy for clipping misc. items into on hanging belays. Not all of them come with a carabiner so be aware of that when comparing prices.
When designing my 145' zipline down my backyard hill for my kids and adults friends, I wanted safety a priority. When I found this PAS on Backcountry, I realized it perfect to customize the hook up distance for adults and children from the trolley. A bit more expensive than a single runner, but than 'one size fits all'. The added locking beiner is a no brainer.
I got this PAS last year and finally had to get my boyfriend one for Christmas because I got tired of sharing it! As other reviews have noted, this system is exponentially safer than a daisy chain and so versatile. Ice climbing in the backcountry can present some pretty odd belaying angles and I never have to worry with this system because I can use any one of the loops. Relegate your old daisy chain to gear racking and upgrade now!
I feel super comfortable when hooked in with this chain. It easy to use and far better in my opinion than the classic daisy. The individual loops are each fall rated so you know that you're staying on the wall. The locking biner is a nice addition as well. Any serious climber should invest in one of these to keep on your harness.
The loops in the PAS are sewn to full strength, so it can handle a fall, and because they're so big, they're easier to adjust and readjust while at a belay changing the gear. Just a great option.
I used this thing for a while, but now i just use a clove on a locker at the master point. Or, at the top of a sport route, just use a sling. Sort of just one more piece of gear that doesn't really belong on the harness.
This thing is significant improvement over a daisy - it solves the danger of mistakenly clipping only the tack-stitching on a daisy (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be17lI-rVyU). And it's stronger than a daisy - if anyone is ever bored, go drop a hundred pound weight onto a daisy as though that hundred-pound weight were standing precariously above the anchor.... it won't hold.
What it doesn't solve is the fact that both this and a daisy are STATIC. That's why a daisy doesn't hold that 100 pound drop, and why this thing isn't really safe. You should always tie to your anchor WITH YOUR ROPE - clove hitch or figure eight or whatever - because the rope is dynamic. So if you slip while precariously balanced above the anchor, or get hit by a rock, you might actually have some hope.
When you're rappelling, tying in with the rope obviously isn't an option. Solution: tie yourself a Prussel Prusik and keep that on your harness. - it's more adjustable than this thing and it's dynamic.
This anchor system is great at the crag for cleaning anchors (especially for beginners) and for hanging out at belays on multi pitch routes (no more clove hitch). It is great when raping multi pitch routes since you don't have to have two slings to go to each bolt at the rap anchor, or trust just one bolt at the rap anchors, while setting up the rappel.
When I first got this thing I was very skeptical. It looked way too gimmicky to actually be functional. After a month of using it, Im a believer. The main advantage of using this over a daisy is that it allows you to clip into two different anchors without violating the double-clipping that makes daisys body-weight only. Being able to clip in before finishing your anchor saves you tons of time on long routes and rappels.
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