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Five Ten Prism Lace-up Climbing Shoe

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The Five Ten Prism Climbing Shoe implements faceted edge technology, using two flat rubber edges at just the right angle to get a solid grip on the rock. A Perflex perforated upper ventilates your foot, even peeking through slits in the heel to let the back of your foot breathe. Upper padding maintains comfort throughout a long day of climbing and a progressive heel-lean encourages arch without overly forcing it. Customize the Prism Shoe's fit by tightening and loosening the laces in spots that need tweaking, and spend the day sending sport or trad routes instead of cussing about uncomfortable feet.

Bottom Line: Technical climbing doesn't mean your feet should suffer.

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Rating for this product: 5

Prisms - Pros and Cons

By:
February 22, 2010

I've owned these shoes for two years, and cranked some long, hot days at the Gunks and pulled quite a bit of plastic on these. I'm on my second resole. My thoughts:

Sizing: Women's 9.5, bought a EUR 41. I wish I owned a half size larger than I bought, as the size tends to get painful for me after your feet swell or after a mere 3-4 pitches. They've become my indoor shoes unless its 40-55F out, and I'm considering buying a larger pair for outdoor use.

Shoe: The Synthetic upper, while great because it doesn't stretch, doesn't really let your feet breathe either, which can be a drag. The fabric is doubled up, which unlike the sirens and gambits prevents them from stretching a lot. If you don't pull the tongue out and let these babies air out, you will get stinky shoes.

Rubber: Onyxx rubber rocks, it edges and smears great. The original rubber cracked down the rand in the front of the toe "point" in about 3 months of climbing, but the first resole lasted a year after that. The rand rubber also seems to take a lot of abuse, every resole i've had required a rand too. Unfortunately I haven't done an ounce of crack climbing in them to help you there.

Shoe Shape: The edging on these shoes is supreme, and the way the outside of your foot molds over the outside edge gives you a huge advantage in outside edging ability and control. You might think its no big deal, but you'll appreciate it on some airy cross-step move. However, the pointed toe tends to get in the way more at the horizontal-holded world of the Gunks than its helpful, its biggest problem is if you have to pivot on the toe on a tiny hold or horizontal - the pointy bit would tend to knock you out from your stance as you rotated. Of course, after two rand replacements, the point profile looks more like the front of the anaszai now, and I think its changed for the better.

Overall, even though I mainly use these shoes for pulling plastic, they sometimes get hot, and will smell if you don't air them out, their control and ability outweighs that. I like these more now that they've been resoled, if that makes sense, and I do like these shoes enough that i'd buy a larger size to use in the real vertical world.

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Rating for this product: 5

Sweet

By:
July 8, 2008

I got this shoe as my first pair actually. Had a friend pick them up for me. My street shoe is a 10.5 womens and I got the 9.0 in this shoe which is a 42 in European sizing. I've tried other shoes on in the past and tend to go by this size as it is all around more accurate. Anyways, I had them on around the house a few days before I actually went climbing. The heel and rear of my foot were extremely comfortable in them but my toes and the front of my foot were almost unbearable. I went climbing at an indoor wall (did all bouldering) and ended up having to change shoes. That being said, just order true to size because I don't think they are going to stretch much. Not an entire half size at least. For the hour that I was able to use them I was in awe (aside from the discomfort every time I jumped off or hit the wall). The rubber on this is phenomenal and the way they edge is just awesome! I noticed a difference in my climbing and I hadn't gone for about a month. Just a great shoe that gives SUCH control. I'm excited to get my 9.5's so I can use them again. All I would say is order your size and you can't get a better shoe.

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Are these shoes for men or for women?????

Are these shoes for men or for women?????

By:
June 11, 2009

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These have a Mens last.

By: Backcountry.com Employee
June 11, 2009

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Rating for this product: 5

Rad Shoes

By:
November 29, 2009

Okay, so here's the deal! I wear a size 9 street shoe and originally bought these shoes in an 8.5 and they hurt bad when I got them. However, only after a week or so of climbing (I climb a lot) they were too big and sloppy on my feet. They will stretch!!! I sent them back and after the advise of a friend went with a 7.5. They still hurt the first little bit, but now they totally rock!!!! These shoes are so precise!! I love the Faceted edge technology, they are a great design. I feel that I'm climbing a lot better. I totally recommend these shoes!! You just might want to size down a little more than you thought!!

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How good is it for smearing?

How good is it for smearing?

By:
September 5, 2008

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I've climbed in them and I think the Prisms are fine smearers. However, bear in mind that this shoe is designed (and marketed) for its edging prowess. The day you get them out of the box, you might be disappointed in their smearing ability, but they'll only get better from here on out. In my experience, the more worn the shoe, the better the smearing, YMMV.

By:
September 9, 2008

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Rating for this product: 5

Awesome shoe

By:
August 22, 2008

This shoe feels awesome. It hugs your heal so well and the grip technology Five Ten uses is amazing. Order your street size on this one as it is true to size and doesn't stretch much. I tried a half-size smaller for a month and was not able to get them to stretch to where I could leave them on for more than 30 minutes at a time.

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Rating for this product: 5

super comfy high performance

By:
October 31, 2008

Lets just say that there isn't a more comfortable high peformance climbing shoe on the market! I've used these from Smith Rocks to Joshua Tree, index, Squamish, and beyond, and they crank!!!

The faceted edge technology absolutly cahnged my options while doing tecnical edging...outside edging has never been more stable, and i can really get more rubber on edges, maximizing friction and control. I feel solid stiffness under all my toes for support on the tiniest of edges, yet sensitivity behind the toes for smears, and nubbin pullin'. The front edge and toe point, balance edges, and penetrate pockets very well.

About the uppers,hands down the most comfy i've ever had on my feet! as soft or softer than leather without the stretch out. The heel tension is snug,the lacing system works well for cranking down the shoe, and they're holding up exceedingly well.

I've been a fan of the onyxx rubber since it first came out, and they're really is no better value in rubber...far and away the highest friction, with amazing durability!

keep it up Five Ten! another great shoe, focused on tech to improve your climbing, and comfort to keep it fun!

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Rating for this product: 2

Disappointed for the Price

By:
October 2, 2009

I bought a pair of these around May, and just had to retire them. Unlike other synthetic uppers/linings, the perforated Prisms stretch... A LOT. Climbing 3-4 times per week for 3 months had them stretch about 1 full size on me, which was far more than I expected for a synthetic. In the end, they had stretched so much that the laces were bottomed out, and I could no longer tighten them enough to prevent my foot from rolling inside the shoe when I edged.

In addition the combination of the chisel tip and the super soft Onyxx rubber runs into problems as the rubber breaks in. I found that the side and upper rubber stretched about a quarter inch outwards over the chisel tip, actually making it more difficult to edge. Also, this caused the sides to show much more wear than I normally see.

Finally, while the very soft Onyxx rubber is amazing for slabby work, I found the combination of it plus the extra soft last to be extremely painful whenever I put my feet in any crack and cranked.I would buy these again if they were redesigned with a stiffer rubber/last, a reworked chisel tip where the sides did not bulge over the sole, a non-perforated synthetic upper (or synthetic lined leather), and a snugger heel.

Oh, and just like seemingly every other synthetic shoe, they will smell putrid if your feet sweat a lot. This did not factor into my rating, but others may want to consider it.

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Rating for this product: 4

Good Climbing Shoe

By:
October 21, 2009

This is my first climbing shoe. It has been good. i got true to my shoe size and at first they were REALLY tight, now they fit perfect after a half summer of doing a few climbs and bouldering. They seem more comfortable to me when i watch my other friends climb a wall, then tear their shoes off after rappelling down. I am sure there are better shoes for the $$ but these have treated me very well.

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Rating for this product: 2

trash after a couple months

By:
November 13, 2009

I have had these shoes since august and they have already stretched a full size it seems like. They fit great for the first month and held edges well. now my feet are loose in them and the last is way to soft. Can no longer edge well which is the reason I bought this shoe. The "faceted edge technology" only helps for the first month and then the rubber is worn down enough that you can't even see the "edge" any more. Shoe doesn't breath. By the end of a couple climbs the shoes are almost soaked through. This shoe is not worth the price!!!

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Rating for this product: 5

Impressed

By:
June 27, 2009

I have been wearing evolv forever and thought I would try something a little different. After ordering an aggressive size for my foot I realized the Prism was extremely small. Tried 2 more times and finally found the right fit, which happened to be my actual street shoe size. After breaking them and getting used to the stiffness/angled toe I have grown to love them. The stiff toe is great for edging and providing nice power. The "magic fingers" heel feels secure and doesn't slip. I like how it conforms to the shape of the hold when used properly. The ONYXX rubber is super sticky and provides an extra level of confidence on flags. The uppers are amazing! The perforations keep my feet cool and comfy, which makes my feet sweat less and inevitably... don't make my feet stink! My evolvs would get nasty after a few sends. All in all, a great shoe. I primarily boulder but I can see them doing well in just about every aspect.

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Rating for this product: 5

Dream come True

By:
November 13, 2008

Finally a climbing shoe has been constructed that compromises both comfort and precision at the highest level possible, its the perfect shoe for all abilities and I must say again that it is hands down the most comfortable shoe on the market! I'm talking like doing 25 pitches of trad climbing and not wanting to take them off afterwards! On top of that having a state of the art design in the toe box that may seem a little weird at first but once accustomed to the Prism technology its potential is unstoppable in any condition like trad, sport, bouldering you name it!! I found that the Prism is my favorite climbing shoe for any type of sandstone climbing which works out perfectly for me since i live in Utah.
A dream come true, thank you Five Ten for I can now go to sleep at night without my feet throbbing.

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Rating for this product: 2

Crap

By:
October 30, 2008

Got these in the correct size. Toes feel OK but not great. The goofy angles on the edging portion of the front is unnecessary and seems gimicky to me. Guess thats the "Prism" part of the shoe. The heel is the worst of all, gets a baggy little pooch at the bottom as though the heel is too deep. I got these at the same time as a friend and he now uses his for gym only as he is having the same issues. On a good note the shoe is somewhat comfortable out of the box but wish I would have gotten another pair of Miura's

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Prisms - Pros and Cons

5 star rating

By: Diana Rooney February 22, 2010

I've owned these shoes for two years, and cranked some long, hot days at the Gunks and pulled quite a bit of plastic on these. I'm on my second more...

Sweet

5 star rating

By: vicaaa July 8, 2008

I got this shoe as my first pair actually. Had a friend pick them up for me. My street shoe is a 10.5 womens and I got the 9.0 in this shoe which is more...

Material:
Perflex 
Lining:
Synthetic 
Sole:
ONYXX 
Last:
Slip 
Asymmetrical Curvature:
Medium 
Lacing:
Standard 
Recommended Use:
Sport and trad climbing, bouldering 
Manufacturer Warranty:
1 Year 

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