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Five Ten has upgraded the incredibly popular Anasazi VCS with Stealth Onyxx Rubber and a close-fitting heel to reveal the better-then-ever Anasazi V2 Climbing Shoe. Apparently making a shoe that climbs 5.15, V15, and countless cutting-edge sport climbs and boulder problems isn't enough for Five Ten. The Anasazi V2 blurs the lines between a stiff edging shoe and a soft smearing shoe to give you technical performance on every foothold of your project.
Bottom Line: Five Ten has made their most-famous technical climbing shoe even better with its introduction of the Anasazi V2 Climbing Shoe.
This is my go to climbing shoe for 80 percent of the climbs I do. So many highlights of my climbing life have been in the Velcros...from a El Cap free in a day, to the single pitch gnar in Indian Creek to huge alpine rock routes in Alaska and Pakistan these have been my babies. Great mix of edging and smearing performance, an improved heal...super sticky and durable onyx rubber...You will not be bummed on these shoes.
This shoe fits people with mid-wide feet. Please try them on in person before buying. I wear an 11.5 us with most of my runners and i sized this down to 10.5 us or 44euro. Could fit into .5 smaller but went with this size instead. Stretched a little and is now somewhat comfortable. If you use plenty of heel hooking on your climbs, try to size it even smaller. I found that my heel doesn't work as good now compared to when it was new and tight. It still works. Rubber wise, I reckon theres not much of a difference compared to Vibram xs. Probably a tad stickier. Upper is very thin compared to my other shoe so i would probably recommend not jamming it into cracks or dragging your foot against the rock. Not a beginners shoe due to the fit and the fact that if u want this shoe to perform u have to buy it tight. Otherwise, 5/5 from me and will keep buying this shoe and the sportiva katanas :D
Oh and one more thing. They start to smell quicker than my other shoes. I store my shoes in a perfectly ventilated area, clean them when i get home after every climb, hang them on my harness when im not climbing and basically everything u can dish out in terms of shoe care except for my feet sweating on hot days. To fix rock shoes smelling, I bought some loose lavender, packed them into tiny balls, popped one or two into the shoe while storing them. absorbs most of the smell away.
Just got a pair of these. I usually take UK size 5 trainers, got the climbing shoes in a 5.5. My big and second toes are pretty squished, though I have just managed to walk around the house for about an hour in them without crying...how likely are they to stretch? From reading the reviews people seem to have actually gone for a size down, but for the sake of my comfort is it worth switching them a size up?
I wear my velcros big enough to be uncomfortable but not painful on the first wearings. They seem to loosen and conform, more than actually stretch, thanks to the synthetic upper. So buy a size that feels fairly comfortable to you in the store, not one that is dramatically uncomfortable.
depending on what type of climbing you're doing, your toes should be just slightly bent to accomodate a tiny bit of strech. 5uk is about 6 us so 5.5 is a half size down for you. I had these shoes years ago a half size down from sneaker size and it was WAY too tight. I only kept wearing them cause I paid so much from them. Just cause you're not crying on the outside doesn't mean you aren't on the inside. Personally I'd consider stepping up a size.
I have the 'Velcro' version of this shoe. But it's pretty similar to the 'vcs'... save the heel and rubber. It is my best all around shoe from slab to overhang. I love these shoes and will get them resoled soon! I recommend sizing them small enough so that when the shoe stretches it will conform to your foot.
This is a great climbing shoe and i know a lot of people that love them and wouldn't part with them for one climb. With that being said, my foot is a little low volume so i need a little less baggage on the top of the foot. Generally slippers work well for me and most velcros, but this shoes is too baggy on the top for me. Still an amazing shoe though!
Unfortunately, there are no local stores in my city that stock these shoes. If you can't try these shoes on in a shop before purchasing (Which is ideal), and/or this is your first time buying shoes online or of this brand.. I'd reccommend putting a peice of A4 paper against a flat wall, put your foot on the paper so your heel is hard back to the wall, then draw the outline of your foot with a pen. Turn the paper over and do the same. Mark which foot is which. Measure how long each foot is in mm. (Be sure to get as accurate as possible, as each half size is 5mm apart, and can make all the difference) Also, from my own experience; if your feet measure 252mm like mine, don't buy anything less than size 40eu(255mm. I bought size 39.5 (250mm) thinking I would have perfectly tight shoes.. they sure were. Ridiculously tiny, and tight. If you are looking for a pair of shoes to suit HARD climbing, or the projects you have been working on, shoes that you won't be able to wear all day; Go for the next half-size up from your measurement. For casual, indoor, all-day climbing, go at least a whole size up from your measurement (10mm, 1cm).
Ultimately, trying shoes on in a store is the BEST way to go, then order them at a cheaper price here.
In regards to the performance of the shoes, they are nothing less than awesome, amazing shoes,, durable, grippy, comfortable, good quality shoes. The straps are good quality and strong. I once had a pair of Mad Rock 'Mugens'. Good shoes for some. I found it's rubber on the toe edge was very soft, and wore out fast. The Stealth, Onyxx rubber is perfect for me, very sticky and durable. No noticable weak spots in the rubber. If you are wearing tight Anasazi's, although they say they won't stretch, they do, Slightly. Also the rungs which the straps go through, broke free from the material, I had to cut slits in the sides of my shoes for the straps to go through to keep them tight. The Anasazi shoe has solid straps, the outer material is also durable and won't tear.
Yes, the heel can be ever so slightly bulky, giving a bit of space. But as I like my shoes really tight, I don't notice it as much as those who like their shoes looser and comfier.
And if it's any consolation, Chris Sharma wore this type of shoe for years.
Well, that's all from me, I really hope this helps someone.
This shoe I have found to be great on sandstone! I have a wide foot and bone spurs on my heals so they fit great. The only complaint is the sole that it comes with wears out super fast, but that is ok because once you get them resoled they climb much better. (given you take them to someone that knows what they are doing)
Sorry if there was any confusion, When I'm talking about the straps breaking in my last review, I was talking about the Mad-Rock mugens. The Anasazi's are ACE. Cheers!
Were I restricted to one shoe for the rest of my climbing days, it would be the Anasazi Velcro.
Believe the hype! Look at its history. This shoe has been on the foot of many many many cutting edge ascents. Free climbs on El CAp. 5.15s V14s. You've seen the pics, now use this tried and true war horse to get you up your next proj.
Sometimes people seem confused as to how to size these shoes... My advice for PERFORMANCE fit: Narrow foot/Low volume/high arch-down size 1 full size from your US street shoe size. Add a half size for med width/volume and a full size for high volume/wide/low arch feet.
I find it takes a half dozen or so pitches for the fit to settle in.
I love this shoe for all of my non-steep climbs outside. This is my go-to shoe for both slab and crack climbing. Some of the hardest routes in the world have been climbed in these shoes, so you can't blame the rubber. I usually wear a 11 or 11.5 street shoe, so I sized these down to 10. They are a bit tight at first, but they conform to your foot very quickly. Bottom line, if you're not planning on doing any crazy overhangs, then these would be a very good choice.
i wear a 9.5 in the evolve pontas what size would i wear in the anasazi? and will the stretch out at all? the pontas is really tight. maybe a little bit to tight.
Good shoe overall but Five Ten still makes a pretty baggy heel and the material on the inside of the shoe takes ages to soften up and break in. Don't get me wrong, the anasazi velcro has done wonders for climbing technology but it would be nice to see Five Ten expand it's line and not cling on to its old successes. A good alternative for a little cheaper are the evolve pontas's or if you don't mind a little less quality, then even the Mad Rock Mugens.
One of my favorite all around shoes. They can do it all. They are lined, which means that they will not stretch out and they'll stink something aweful after a lot of use.
These shoes have great edges and a decent heal cup. I sized down one full size from you street shoe. I wear a 10.5 in dragons and they are tight.. I wear a 9.5 in these. tight in the beginning but they broke in nicely.
The best shoe I've ever had, good performance, fit, and very technical. Not a beginner's shoe, if you want it to perform well it needs to be at least a size smaller than your street size. The heel has a little wiggle in it, besides that I'm completely satisfied.
Most people find the Galileo to fit more snugly that the A.V. Check out my review for advice on fitting these-i've been wearing them for over 10 years thru the various incarnations and have never changed my size.
i tried both of these shoes on tonight and decided to go with the anasazi. however I wore a 7.5 in the galileo and a 7 in the anasazi. I'd recommend trying them on as they are different fits, but that's just my two cents
Probably. Since they are comparable models within the same brand I'm sure the sizing is pretty close. If the 8.5 were too tight then yea definitely go up. Although finding a local vendor that has them would be good so you can actually try them on. Anasazis are found almost everywhere. Try them out in person if you can then come back online and get a better deal!
Basically, I started off doing mostly gym climbing and they were great for ever little nook and cranny that I wanted to get into. Then I took them outside and they were even better. I was able to climb some of the hardest stuff I had ever climbed without having to worry about my feet slipping. And after almost 3/4 of a year of climbing every day, almost, they are just starting to where out. If you are a intermediate climber looking for a aggressive shoe that is not to hard on the feet (walked over a mile in them) and will stick to anything this is it.
My previous shoe was a La Sportiva Clif shoe and this was a quantum leap in shoe design. These shoes are designed for aggressive climbing and the new heal fits a lot better than the original velcros. Would recommend this shoe to anyone looking for a step up.
I've been climbing regularly in a climbing gym for 3 or 4 months now and I've been using Sportiva's mantis shoes, however I've noticed that I have a hard time staying on jibs and even more trouble trying to toe hook when I'm on overhangs. I'm trying to decide between these, the galileo, or the mocassyms which I see a lot of at the gym (or even another really good shoe). As i live in Indiana I won't be doing much outdoors climbing, but maybe some bouldering. Any sugestions?
These are definitely a huge jump in performance both from what you have and the other shoes you mentioned. One thing to be aware of is that La Sportiva and Five Ten cater to different foot shapes, so I highly recommend trying them on in the shop and then buying online. If you decide you do like Five Tens though, these are awesome shoes. If you want crazy aggressive shoes (and again, only if you feel like Five Tens really fit your feet), go for the Jet 7. I've been climbing those for over a year now on tons of different stuff and I love them. If you want to post another question with more specifics about the kind of climbing you'll be doing, I can make more specific recommendations and give you a few pairs of equivalent shoes from 5.10 and Sportiva so you can compare. Hope this helps for now though.
5.10 has put their best rubber on this shoe and it is a great shoe for the money. I have two pair and love them. As always try them on before purchasing.
Anytime I want to get my send on, I reach for these bad boys. I love em. They fit my foot very well. Make sure to try them on first before buying as different brands fit differently and different shoes within the same brand will also fit differently.
Also, an FYI for whoever said the soles wore out fast. It's because you're climbing on sandstone. Any sole is going to wear out fast when you climb on sandpaper. I climb on sandstone as well but not in these. I use a cheaper pair for that stuff cause i know they will wear out fast.
you're going to have to answer that for yourself, as an individual climber's technique heavily impacts the durability of the rubber. work on precision footwork and overall technique, and you will see your rubber last a lot longer than it did before.
Solid features all around. Edging, heel, everything. I wear a 10.5 in mocs and downsized to a 10 for the velcros. Using the shoes on tiny edges pushes the heel back into the cupped rubber for a very comfortable fit. After a week or two of break-in the rubber's softening and feeling like an excellent fit. Backcountry.com was also easy and fast to deal with.
These things are great, but after only four months of regular use (3 to 4 times a week in the gym) the toe of the right shoe has started to bust open. I am planning on getting them resoled, but it's a tad disappointing to have to get it done so soon. No doubt though, these are great performers and I intend to use them far into the future.
Yes, the heel is baggy, but that is why you buy them in your street shoe size. Five-Ten makes their shoes small, so your street shoe size will be tight, which means don't go any smaller like I did, or you'll be knuckled up like crazy! As anyone will tell you: Stealth rubber is the stickiest! The old C4 was stickier than anything on the market, and now Five-Ten makes the Onyx and HF rubbers - are you kidding me?!
I have a pair of Pontas that I couldn't get to stick on some non-existant feet of a sit-down-start. I threw the ol' Anasazies on and stood up like my feet were flat on the ground! Huge difference in performance!
I have a pretty small heel, and I found the heel way too big on these shoes. The fit was tight everywhere else, but I still had a couple cm of flop in the heel.
3rd pair of this type iv'e had, I love them!!!! These shoes fit perfectly on my feetz, the La Sportivas hurt my feetz!!!! They just fit gooood!!! I slay 5.13's!!!!
i would not this shoe for bouldering, nor sport climbing...soft shoes are for crack climbing only! this shoe is perfectly good for toe drag and jams. resoles are cheap, so foot work is not important, keep that in mind beginners or experts!
this shoe is okay to let go...by that i mean to store in a dark, dreary area without ventilation b/c with it's breathable leather (like ledorhosen), you can do anything all day long.
so don't take extra good care of these because they are uber durable.
remember: this is a sport not worth dying for, but risk dyin for.
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